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Should make a custom bracket, but initially a zip tie worked as a temporary fix. make sure the little rubber piece at the bottom of the dip stick is in good shape or you can get a leak there.
Thanks. I kinda figured that. Yeah the rubber piece is fine. Oil ds tube fits snug in the hole. I just need to support it with something so the dipstick tube doesnt come off under driving conditions.
I found the ge coil I removed from the car so that's a plus. I'm waiting on a gm ait sensor to install and get ready set a start up map and fire up the car sometime this week.
Matt. Sorry to quote you on this message. It completely slipped my mind but check up on rosario racing on facebook. He is in Massachusetts if not mistaken. He sells/ makes a intake plenum spacer that will help clear the s366 with xs power turbo manifold. Thus clearing the throttlebody from ar housing. Not sure how much it is. I never got to contacting him since I went ffim at the time. The spacer goes between upper and intake manifold flange. Hope this helps.
Thank you for reaching out! Jason at Rosario racing responded very quickly and does have one billet spacer in stock at $175. He is great to deal with and although I didn't buy anything from him he didn't hesitate to share info and insight. I have no issue at all recommending him to others for your 2j needs.
Although it is designed for my setup I have still decided to stay the course with the s257sxe. Doesn't help that I filed a return request, went out to my car to get the 257's turbine housing only to find it coated in surface rust. So nightmare scenario there and no sending that back. That and I honestly have no idea if or when I will be able to afford "stage 2" of the build with everything I want to do there...
At this point I think I will be happier with a smaller, more responsive turbo. More low end torque and quicker spool will make it quicker (longer powerband) than the s366 on an otherwise identical setup, and given my fuel system and transmission will both run out of head room (and the compression ratio on 93 octane pump gas) before the s257sxe will. Even on a 2j it should support 500whp and my current goal is 400. That being said, my s366 is still available for anyone interested, and now we know its possible to fit that big boy on a na-t setup, thanks to places like Rosario racing making products for our cars.
No problem. Glad to hear that he reached out. He is pretty good with customer service I was told. And i dont know why i mentioned s366. I forgot your going s257. I guess i think about s366 turbos alot lol. I think that would be a great option by using the rosario spacer. Bolt in and go. Should fit like a glove and go with the biggest ar housing on the s257 to get full potential of the turbo since you are going to step it up in near future. And on your rusty ar housing, sand it down, primer it, and hit it with high heat engine paint. I'll slide some pics in so you can see.
this is my ar coated with high heat engine paint. So far it hasn't rusted. Eventually it will rust with the heat and humidity etc over time.
Yeah I decided to take a slightly different approach, I will be trimming the tb outlet back with a band saw and welding a 3"-2.5" reducer on to make room instead of buying the Rosario spacer. My bro in law welds for a living so he is helping me out with that. So there is still a Rosario spacer available for anyone looking. Fingers crossed my turbo sells so I can keep up momentum on this build...fuel injectors are next which look pretty miserable to do lol.
Thank you for the suggestion on the turbine housing, we'll see how lazy I am feeling since its getting a turbo blanket anyway!
Yeah I decided to take a slightly different approach, I will be trimming the tb outlet back with a band saw and welding a 3"-2.5" reducer on to make room instead of buying the Rosario spacer. My bro in law welds for a living so he is helping me out with that. So there is still a Rosario spacer available for anyone looking. Fingers crossed my turbo sells so I can keep up momentum on this build...fuel injectors are next which look pretty miserable to do lol.
Thank you for the suggestion on the turbine housing, we'll see how lazy I am feeling since its getting a turbo blanket anyway!
No problem. That option is also doable. It has to have the right curve coming off the TB to clear the turbine housing but not so much so you dont end up with a curvy looking cold side. Just a straight shot from tb to wherever your routing the piping. Injectors are a pain in the a** to get to for sure. I went thru that process when I removed intake manifold and egr etc. I would suggest to install vvti coils since you are going to be there taking intake manifold apart. Also another tip for budget tt ecu users wanting to keep a happy stock fuel setup you can use Mazda rx8 stock 440cc high z injectors. They are denso yellow tops and they are 11mm. They fit stock ge fuel rail. But you need to get bigger bottom o rings for it to fit lower runners, otherwise fuel will spit out thru everywhere. There is going to be 2 of the 4 long studs that hold the throttlebody to the intake plenum that you are going to have a fun time getting out 😊. If you are going to keep distributor wire to use the tt ecu if you are going that route. I have a turbo blanket on mines too. Will help alot to control heat.
I already bought vvti coils from rock auto plus the 440cc injectors from OsideTiger on eBay, they are drop ins. Also have a damper bypass from driftmotion while I'm in there and I assume that's a good time to put the loop back hose Ali mentioned in the TT ECU thread for the vsv bypass. I have the whole xs power na-t fmic kit but may have to copy some piping in a smaller diameter since theirs is designed around 3" piping on the ic to tb side for maf compatibility...so I'll be doing some juggling here and there for sure.
Another question. I just pulled my upper IM. Bit of a nightmare and not sure how its all going back in lol. I am assuming this would be easier if I delete the egr. Any cons to doing this? I'm trying to eliminate whatever unnecessary vacuum lines I can while I'm in there, but don't want to sacrifice any driveability or functionality with the car, or create any issues. I'm assuming its a two part kit, one block off plate on the upper IM and the other one on the pipe itself or wherever it pops out of the head.
I already bought vvti coils from rock auto plus the 440cc injectors from OsideTiger on eBay, they are drop ins. Also have a damper bypass from driftmotion while I'm in there and I assume that's a good time to put the loop back hose Ali mentioned in the TT ECU thread for the vsv bypass. I have the whole xs power na-t fmic kit but may have to copy some piping in a smaller diameter since theirs is designed around 3" piping on the ic to tb side for maf compatibility...so I'll be doing some juggling here and there for sure.
perfect. Yeah you can do the vsv bypass since your already there. And if you have the sc300 na t kit it should be pretty close to where it needs to be, or may need minor adjustments to fit like a glove. If you are using the jdm tt ecu you dont need the maf.
I got a aristo ecu from a cl member, and have an OEM Denso map and the relay for the ac. There is still a ton to remove to get to the injectors but I see light at the end of the tunnel, at least. Hopefully I can pull some stuff while I'm in there without making the car run like crap. There are just a lot of vacuum lines and with no clamps or barbs on them I see a lot of stupid, tedious issues if I can't do something to make them all more boost friendly.
Another question. I just pulled my upper IM. Bit of a nightmare and not sure how its all going back in lol. I am assuming this would be easier if I delete the egr. Any cons to doing this? I'm trying to eliminate whatever unnecessary vacuum lines I can while I'm in there, but don't want to sacrifice any driveability or functionality with the car, or create any issues. I'm assuming its a two part kit, one block off plate on the upper IM and the other one on the pipe itself or wherever it pops out of the head.
Thanks!
I used sandwich bags and labeled the bolts. There is alot of bolts. Lol. Yes for the egr delete you are going to need 2 block off plates. In my case I only needed one, the one on lower intake manifold at the end. And mines was welded shut I dont have a block off plate. As far as eliminating vaccum lines with stock ge intake is kinda tuff. The intake has alot of vaccum provisions. You can cap some of the minor vacuums off but you are going to need to keep some also. You are also going to need to put the resistor in the egr connector and tape it off so you wont get a temp gauge off reading when you do egr delete. I forgot the resistor size but alisc3 posted it. In my case only vacuum lines I'm running so far is wastegate, bov, fpr, map sensor, boost gauge and brake booster of course. I tee'd the fpr with map sensor vacuum line like ali stated on the forum, and also I had the welder weld the map sensor vaccum fitting in between cylinder 3 and 4 also like ali did. Lol
if you can run without the egr that alone will clear up a bunch of vacuum lines and half of the mess back there.
also instead of doing the loop back for the ACIS valve (flap in upper intake manifold) that bypasses the canister under the lower runner, you can remove all of that stuff and just run a line straight from the intake to the flapper valve.
that removes a bunch of lines, but if you are ever planning on going back to stock then just leave the canister and all that stuff and do the bypass line as shown in the tt ecu mod thread.
That works. Once I get the egr delete installed I'll work on the vacuum stuff again. Today I got my old injectors out and the OsideTiger replacements with pigtails in. Went very well, but wanted to confirm with those who used these that the injector tops had double stacked o rings in them. It all feels very solid and the injectors can't even really move like the old ones could before removal. Very happy with the outcome!
They used to just have 1 oring on the top but I checked and see that they are selling some with 2 orings now, I don't think it makes a difference but probably helps keep the upper O-ring in place better cause its probably doing the sealing.
I need to grab a set myself here pretty soon, probably get a set of 440s so that I don't have to install a piggyback right away.
Waiting on my block off plates from azperformance to show up and I can pick up where I left off. Cutting the tb and reducer down to size worked perfect considering I had no band saw and did all cutting with a dewalt electric cutoff wheel in a bench vise. Then went back with a flat grinding wheel to face and true up both sides...looks like I wanted to to and even tips up ever so slightly to allow additional clearance. It added 3/8" to 1/2". The turbine housing for the s257sxe fits comfortably and will allow the turbo blanket to fit without touching the charge pipe. Haven't checked the s366 yet, but I imagine it will fit too.
I do still have the s366 available for sale, if anyone wants more info please contact me. At this point it's still for sale, but who knows...that may change if this fitment attempt is successful.
03-16-19, 06:57 AM
