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My original SC300 fan clutch has gone bad and locked in a near-solid position. It sounds incredibly loud and is probably putting more stress on the engine and water pump.
So I've got a new fan clutch I'm picking up tomorrow. I've found this one page in the TSRM addressing the removal/reassembly of the clutch onto the water pump pulley but it does not address the ft-lbs of torque required for the fan blade bolts onto the new fan clutch. Does anyone know?
It lists the four bolts on the water pump pulley as requiring 12 ft-lbs.
As for removing the fan blade and clutch and getting the new clutch in, I assume this requires total removal of the fan shroud and the lower cover with clips just under the fan, correct?
Thanks all. I haven't done this job before and I just want to be sure I'm not missing any details, simple as it most likely is to do.
Here's a scan of the TSRM page I'm going from:
And here's a closeup of one of the fan blade bolts as it is attached to the fan clutch. These are what I'm needing torque values for if anyone happens to know:
I picked up an inexpensive 1/4" drive Pittsburgh in-lb torque wrench. It should do just fine.
Picked up the new factory fan clutch from Toyota earlier.
However I found that a normal 12mm crow's foot socket with my 3/8" drive torque wrench doesn't clear the hub of the old fan clutch. It looks like several inches of flat extension are required-- kind of like bolting an entire open end wrench onto the torque wrench drive.
CatManD3W, since you mention that you haven't used a torque wrench on yours I am wondering if it's okay to just guesstimate the 12 ft-lbs of the four bolts with a plain old open ended 12mm wrench. That would be easy... but inaccurate and not to TSRM spec. Gerrb, what do you think?
It's either that or I'll just throw it to my mechanic tomorrow.
I prefer to keep things to factory spec but I don't know how bad it would be to overtighten those four bolts with an open end wrench.
My initial frustration over my recurring EGR CEL light having momentarily passed, I looked into this again.
Found this just now. It seems to refer to making sure one doesn't over-torque the fan *blade* to the fan clutch... but I am not so sure. This fan clutch assembly for this Toyota truck looks near identical to the 2JZ-GE fan clutch (the blades look similar but of course it won't be the same as the 2JZ-GE version). But the four nuts are the same 12mm going onto the pulley and it appears that the fan blade pictured affixes the same way.
So this still makes me wonder if guesstimating the torque on the four nuts with an open end wrench... since the clearance is so narrow in there that one would need a very special extension to use a torque wrench.
The fan blade nuts are easy in comparison.
Also NOT 2JZ-GE's but similar write-up for Toyota trucks:
No one else in these threads seem to worry about being exact with the 12mm nut torque. The fan blade in-lbs torque, as you mentioned Gerry seems to be the one thing about this that everyone is very stern about.
So this still makes me wonder if guesstimating the torque on the four nuts with an open end wrench... since the clearance is so narrow in there that one would need a very special extension to use a torque wrench.
Blkexcoupe, thank you for that! Yes, that's exactly what I've been looking for! And Snap-On makes it, of course
The only trouble I've had so far is stabilizing the water pump pulley to keep it from moving while breaking the four nuts loose. I haven't gone all the way with any of those four nuts just yet.
Blkexcoupe, thank you for that! Yes, that's exactly what I've been looking for! And Snap-On makes it, of course
The only trouble I've had so far is stabilizing the water pump pulley to keep it from moving while breaking the four nuts loose. I haven't gone all the way with any of those four nuts just yet.
Snap on has never let me down when looking for tools. I want to buy it just to have for future use.
I normally use a screw driver or pry bar wedged between two studs to keep the fan from spinning. It's not the best method, but it has always worked.
Gerry, I have the MKIV TT shroud with an MKIV style radiator. The fan blade on my car is still the GE type (although I have the GTE fan blade in a bin). I noticed that both the SC300 radiator shroud and MKIV radiator shroud use the same exact removable curve part that's held in by clips.
Yes, I thought of removing that too but I think Blkexcoupe's Snap-On 12mm extension for torque wrenches is the perfect part to use.
Today I had my local shop install the new fan clutch though since they're looking at the EGR system too. But thanks to you and everyone else in this thread I at least learned the procedure. I think I will pick up a 10mm and 12mm Snap-On extension later for anything else that might have tight clearance like this.
done it before, small open ended wrench. its harder to remove than it is to install. if you can get enough torque on such a small mm box wrench with all the fan blades in the way then you forearms probably look like popeyes after a spinach snack.
generally on fragile parts like that or aluminum use a small open ended or closed wrench or a 1/4 ratchet set and you wont be breaking anything. I have literally tightened those bolts as much as possible with an open ended wrench and nothing bad happened, I prefer not to go by torque on the small stuff i just tighten it.
with a 3/8" ratchet you can overtorque stuff more easily, so I generally reserve it for 12mm and above bolts, or for 10mm I just use it to break them free. It might take longer sometimes but I hardly strip bolts or crack aluminum pieces anymore, sometimes going by torque values and not by feel will cause you to mess it up in fact. just my .02
04-19-16, 01:21 AM
SC300/2JZ-GE Fan clutch removal and blade torque?
Assuming your current wrench goes low enough on the scale, that is.
