Notorious 1j running rich and idle issues. plz help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Notorious 1j running rich and idle issues. plz help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have research and research this problem for the last 6 months or more. I hate starting threads because 99% of the time the question has been asked and answered. well I cant figure it out and I'm starting a thread.....obviously. Now please if you dont know what you're talking about please dont waste our time. So let us begin.
So what's the problem? My stock 1jz non vvti manual harness and motor, auto ecu with fmic, walbro 255, 3in down pipe runs stupid rich always and has a surging idle once the car is warmed up
ive tried different injectors, new O2, new water temp sensor,different fpr, different coils,new map and its on its like 5th set of plugs. no vaccum leaks, Ive killed 2 cans of carb cleaner tryin to find one. ohm tested my 5v circuit, recalibrated my tps 10x. cleaned iacv, cleaned air intake sensor. My a/f gauge is maxes out at 10 rich 20 lean. the car idles between -10 and 10.4 at WOT its at -10 while steady rpm cruzing at 45mph its at 12.6 70mph 10.6.
The oil is contaminated im worried about washing the rings ive changed the oil half a dozen times in the couple hundred miles Ive drove it. The motor has never ran right since ive swapped it, got from japan. OH and Ive tried 5 ecu's!!! I personally think its either a wiring issue that I'm missing or theres something up with the fuel system. Ive tried running it with the the return line going straight to a gas can, no difference. Odd issues that lead me to think its wiring related. I can not get it to flash a code at me no matter how i try. also if i unplug the water temp sensor or the 02 it doesnt run any different
So what's the problem? My stock 1jz non vvti manual harness and motor, auto ecu with fmic, walbro 255, 3in down pipe runs stupid rich always and has a surging idle once the car is warmed up
ive tried different injectors, new O2, new water temp sensor,different fpr, different coils,new map and its on its like 5th set of plugs. no vaccum leaks, Ive killed 2 cans of carb cleaner tryin to find one. ohm tested my 5v circuit, recalibrated my tps 10x. cleaned iacv, cleaned air intake sensor. My a/f gauge is maxes out at 10 rich 20 lean. the car idles between -10 and 10.4 at WOT its at -10 while steady rpm cruzing at 45mph its at 12.6 70mph 10.6.
The oil is contaminated im worried about washing the rings ive changed the oil half a dozen times in the couple hundred miles Ive drove it. The motor has never ran right since ive swapped it, got from japan. OH and Ive tried 5 ecu's!!! I personally think its either a wiring issue that I'm missing or theres something up with the fuel system. Ive tried running it with the the return line going straight to a gas can, no difference. Odd issues that lead me to think its wiring related. I can not get it to flash a code at me no matter how i try. also if i unplug the water temp sensor or the 02 it doesnt run any different
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so I've never messed with the VSV before, so tonight i unpluged it and capped the line. The car no longer surges at idle but it has a very hard time starting, also it seems to run richer at idle pegging the gauge at 10 but under WOT its at 12.7 which is great. so I decieded to see what would happen if i unplugged the IACV while the VSV was unplugged and the car was running but as soon as i unplugged the IACV the car loses spark.....weird.
for wiring diagrams i always use this link
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...ngine%20Wiring
and i dont see how unplugging the VSV and IACV would cause lose of spark.
for wiring diagrams i always use this link
http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...ngine%20Wiring
and i dont see how unplugging the VSV and IACV would cause lose of spark.
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Hey,
To check if your ecu is getting a consistent "Starter" signal, look at the pinouts for the ecu and find the starter signal pinouts. I dont have the 1jz ecu pinouts, but I am sure you can find those online. Once you have found them, back probe the pin on the ecu and when the car has started see if that pin is still getting 12v. If so, that is your problem.
Another common issue you get when the ecu is getting a consistent starter signal is that timing will be changed and I think, advanced to make it easier to start. Rpm will also be limited and the car will start backfiring/misfiring at a certain rpm.
To check if your ecu is getting a consistent "Starter" signal, look at the pinouts for the ecu and find the starter signal pinouts. I dont have the 1jz ecu pinouts, but I am sure you can find those online. Once you have found them, back probe the pin on the ecu and when the car has started see if that pin is still getting 12v. If so, that is your problem.
Another common issue you get when the ecu is getting a consistent starter signal is that timing will be changed and I think, advanced to make it easier to start. Rpm will also be limited and the car will start backfiring/misfiring at a certain rpm.
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#8
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Computer needs IAC signal to idle so it will turn off, Does your check engine light function? I would start their and youre saying the VSV made a difference so may be vacuum related but your ecu is obviously reciving false signal thatthe car is getting more air than what it is, also check your MAP sensor. You are also running auto computer on a manual I would check the pinouts because auto idle is differrent than manual althogh you said you tired different ecus were they manual ecus?
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