scblackout

iTrader: (2)

My 96 has 230k on the engine, and while the maintenance has been done and is currently running strong, I am considering purchasing another block. My goal is to NA-T this spring and I wonder whether it is generally worth it to start with a motor with less miles on it. I found one local verified running with only 120k complete with harness, manual ecu etc. Price is only $700.

So to the experts here. Is it generally worth the extra money to start with less miles, or does it not really matter with these engines? This is not going to be a high dollar high power build, sub 600hp for sure. Plan on doing regular maintenance plus tt head gasket, studs, oil pump etc, just the basics.

Is there any difference between a 92-97 block - head itself so long as no vvti? Meaning does everything pretty much cross over so I have backup of everything just in case for future?

I ask because the engine I found is from a 97 5sp that the owner swapped in an ls.. Yeah one of the 120 totally bites the dust, but honestly after seeing it, I would either chump it or dump it, it's that bad.

lilSCsteve

iTrader: (71)

OP-230k is nothing for these engines especially if the maintenance has been up kept. But if you have the chance to pick up a lower mileage, and priced right engine I would pick it up and use this for the NA-T build. Just my 2 cents. Some of these guys are making some reliable power with these builds, all while being a daily driver. One key build that comes to mind; lexforlife he's been NA-T on his daily for some years. he's on the forums too! Also I'll move this to performance and maintenance section to help draw more of a response.GL, and keep us posted. Thanks.

steve

TXMAG

iTrader: (1)

Do you daily drive your SC right now? If so, and it's in your budget, I'd buy the other motor in a heartbeat. Working with an engine on a stand is sooooo much easier than working with one in the car of your daily driver. You can go through it properly this way with no downtime to your current ride. Not to mention, when you do swap it over you'll be able to sell your existing motor for something and recoup part of the cost.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

$700 isn't a bad price at all. And it's already set up for a 5-speed with only the Aristo TT-ECU mod needed for boost.

It doesn't hurt to start with a lower mileage engine but lilSCsteve is right-- 230k isn't anything for 2JZ's. Mine is at 238k and I'm considering using it for my GTE conversion so long as I can afford the downtime.

No differences in the block. 92-97's have the same cranks, rods and pistons (same alloy and strength as GTE's just with more compression). The differences for GE's during those years are all only slight differences for emissions type/year, A/T or M/T ECU (including emissions type) and TRAC or Non-TRAC for automatics. Mechanically the 92-97's are all the same.

1998+ VVT-i 2JZ-GE's have heads and electronics being significantly changed but the bare VVT-i BLOCKS themselves are still identical to the older ones and still have the same strong crankshafts. It's the rods and pistons that need to be changed out with VVT-i's for NA-T use.

Hard to say without seeing it but it's probably in better shape than you think unless it was horribly abused and run without oil frequently. Although the only unique thing about a complete engine from a '97 5-speed 1 of 120 compared to any other 92-97 is the engine wiring harness and the ECU. And that wiring harness isn't going to be much different than a 1996 5-speed harness.

.....

I do think TXMAG makes a very good point though. Buying another block and building that on a stand gets you out of the engine bay and away from a harried mad rush to get your car back together so you can drive it again. I really want to use my existing stock engine for my swap/conversion but since the SC is my daily vehicle I've been thinking seriously about going the route of his advice.

It depends on your situation, I suppose: if you aren't driving the SC with the stock engine all the time, then it makes more sense to NA-T what you have (which means you could pull it out with a cherry picker anyway).

But if for whatever reason it's your primary (or sole) form of transportation and you have the workspace available, the second spare engine route sounds better to me.

scblackout

iTrader: (2)

Well you talked me into it. I'm even going to be able to get a better price as he mostly just wants it gone. Turns out it's a 96 motor and he swapped in a 97 ecu (did swap pins) for whatever reason. So 97 5sp ecu (zero need but I'm sure someone wants one), 96 harness -- I can always use a spare, and the engine. I suppose it really hit me when I sat down and figured I just spent more than that this week on the cop/tt-ecu/map-ecu2 setup, so might as well do it right and on a stand.

Owner was kind enough to send me a video of the engine itself, talk about taking the extra step to make a sale. Sounds like it's running ok.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

I have 140k on mine , but have been boosted on original motor since 2007 and at 600rwhp since 2010 on 93 pump gas .. so point is if motor has been maintained with good oil changes and has solid and even compression, boost away , only suggestions are , have head cleaned up , valves lapped clean of carbon , seats cut for total sealing , decarbonize piston tops and money you were going to spend for this newer block , reallocate to good standalone and solid tuner or at bare min. do the tt ECU setup by Ali .. this is the secret to 2jz surviving for years as years as opposed to months...

I use mobil 1 since 2007 but change oil every 1k miles .. bearings stay happy and turbo stays happy with fresh oil

scblackout

iTrader: (2)

@Lex
Sounds like a good plan. I did decide to grab the motor and rebuild it. It will be my first rebuild so I would much rather do it on a stand on a backup just in case I screw something up. I have no idea how the prior owners of my car took care of it. Uncovering all the issues over the past year leads me to believe they didn't take care of the car as a Lexus. The new engine comes with a binder of documentation and receipts from Lexus throughout its life, so that combined with the video of it running made my mind up.

Any idea what a basic head refresh should cost me? Having never done it before, it's always nice to have a ballpark prior to going to a shop so that I know I am getting a decent deal.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

The motor sounds great, unless you are trading out pistons/rods I wouldn't even touch the block, don't really have to touch the head either but if you are gonna have it off you might as well drop it off somewhere. I had some fairly minor porting and a valve job done on a 4G63 head years ago and was just under $400 yours should be less unless you want a valve job and porting, it looked like new.

But either way, I say just throw on a TT HG, ARP studs and call it a day. It should push 600hp without a second thought.