BAD954BOI

iTrader: (5)

I recently spun a bearing because the jackass that assembled my motor over torqued cylinder #4... So to fast forward around my way it's easier to buy a na long Block then it is to find a crank but I don't want the spare parts or have time to part out parts most people don't want. And LAST BUT NOT LEAST , not comfortable with buying a used part like that with out some kind of guarantee its not damaged.

So the option of a reman crankshaft came my way and was wondering if anyone has taken the chance?

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

I used a remanufactured crank on my last car but it was a whole different car and motor. If you can prove it was the shops fault they should make it right? If you have to take matters in your own hands then I would say remanufactured would be fine if you REALLY trust the machine shop that did it. As I'm sure you know, if it's not in perfect condition or even off balance and out of spec it'll walk and spin another. I'd even say maybe a brand new crank would be worth it.

All that being said I haven't heard of any issues ever with a maintained block of almost any miles so your chances of getting a bad used block are slim. I couldn't put a number on how many super high miled SC's are running around, not to mention with high HP numbers with just a HG.

LeX2K

If you replace the crank it will need to be ground to match the rods/bearings. So if you want to replace the crank get a used one that is in good condition and has NOT been machined, take the crank with your rods to a machine shop.

TXMAG

iTrader: (1)

This. Over the years I've seen all sorts of balance issues with new and/or remanufactured cranks. I wouldn't install one without having a machine shop check it.

BAD954BOI

iTrader: (5)

All valid points fellas,
I personally don't know the source of the reman crank as it was a option that was brought to me via the shop that my engine is at now.

So from my understanding it doesn't really matter which way I go as long as I will have the rods,bearings, and crank taken to a machine shop to be matched and clearances before reassembly. Correct?

Anything else I should look into or do?

TXMAG

iTrader: (1)

I should have said this in my first reply... If it were me, I'd take the entire rotating assembly in and have it all inspected and balanced. This is your crank, connecting rods, pistons, pins, rings and a set of rod bearings. Even if everything is in good shape I think this is a few hundred bucks well spent for a performance build.


Some will probably argue that this is overkill since a 2JZ crank is neutral balanced from the factory, but most performance builds are balanced to +/- 1gram whereas the OEM has a significantly looser tolerance.