Anyone running MAP-ECU3 with TT ECU Mod?
07-05-15, 09:00 PM
#1
Anyone running MAP-ECU3 with TT ECU Mod?
Anyone running MAP-ECU3? Please tell me what you think about it.
I just got a MAP-ECU3/Boost solenoid and I am going to use it with the TT ECU mod utilizing a JDM Aristo ECU, 550's, an Aeromotive AFPR Kit, a Comp CT4X Turbo and Tial BOV / WG. What can I expect with this combination? Any gotchas to look out for?
This should work GREAT with the Aristo ECU right? Any opinions on this setup? (other than "a standalone would be better man").
We were going to use an SAFC for fuel but I now have this. How can this unit improve my experience with this build day to day?
I have read plenty today about this unit but thus far, to be honest, I lack the automotive sophistication to fully understand practical application of many of the features. Until then I'll ask, What cool sh%& can I do to my car with this thing beyond control fuel like the SAFC?
Thanks,
SG
I just got a MAP-ECU3/Boost solenoid and I am going to use it with the TT ECU mod utilizing a JDM Aristo ECU, 550's, an Aeromotive AFPR Kit, a Comp CT4X Turbo and Tial BOV / WG. What can I expect with this combination? Any gotchas to look out for?
This should work GREAT with the Aristo ECU right? Any opinions on this setup? (other than "a standalone would be better man").
We were going to use an SAFC for fuel but I now have this. How can this unit improve my experience with this build day to day?
I have read plenty today about this unit but thus far, to be honest, I lack the automotive sophistication to fully understand practical application of many of the features. Until then I'll ask, What cool sh%& can I do to my car with this thing beyond control fuel like the SAFC?
Thanks,
SG
07-06-15, 03:16 PM
#3
It's awesome to know you are using it as well. I'm sure you will know everything about it after you have time to dig into it. I can't wait for one of your awesome, detailed write ups!
Does it look like getting it wired and running will be a difficult task?
07-06-15, 04:22 PM
#4
I am using it on my 1jz. It is very good, I don't have much experience with any of the other piggy backs, but the features on the map ecu make it probably one of the best, and closest to stand alone that you can get. It has fuel mapping, timing mapping, coolant temp compensation, multiple map selection, built in boost cut defeater, boost control solenoid option, speed cut, NOS solenoid control and much more. As you said, you will realize more features as you dig into it, just read through the manual.
My only thing with it is the fact that I use the 2 maps to compensate for the cold start fuel enrichment, because I haven't had time to play with the coolant temp function. Also, I do not have my O2 sensors hooked up because I got sick of the map ecu fighting the oem ecu fuel trims. I will eventually maybe get them connected again, but for now it drives fine. Not perfectly dialed in, but good enough to cruise it on sunny days.
It is full of features and powerful, but at the end of the day is a piggy back. If you already have it, give it a shot. It's not hard to wire in. You basically just "intercept" the IGNITOR signals and tap into the TPS. You might want to get a jumper harness though so that you don't alter your wire harness. Just to be safe
My only thing with it is the fact that I use the 2 maps to compensate for the cold start fuel enrichment, because I haven't had time to play with the coolant temp function. Also, I do not have my O2 sensors hooked up because I got sick of the map ecu fighting the oem ecu fuel trims. I will eventually maybe get them connected again, but for now it drives fine. Not perfectly dialed in, but good enough to cruise it on sunny days.
It is full of features and powerful, but at the end of the day is a piggy back. If you already have it, give it a shot. It's not hard to wire in. You basically just "intercept" the IGNITOR signals and tap into the TPS. You might want to get a jumper harness though so that you don't alter your wire harness. Just to be safe
Last edited by LoveSCs; 07-07-15 at 11:14 AM. Reason: intercept IGNITOR signals, NOT injector signals....
07-07-15, 10:20 AM
#6
I am using the map ecu v1, the map ecu v3 is similar with a bunch of extra features on it I think you can even have wifi and use an iphone on it. I haven't used a v3 but the map ecu v1 works great with the tt ecu mod, I see no reason why the v2 or v3 wouldn't be even better.
it takes some initial setup time, as it wont run perfect out of the box until you do some adjusting, but its pretty easy to get it close, and if you get it close the factory ecu will take care of the rest via the o2 sensor. at least this is with the map ecu v1 replacing the map sensor.
I noticed someone said intercept mode which doesn't trick the map sensor, but actually intercepts the injector wires, this is a mroe advanced stage of piggyback, and with the tt ecu mod you don't really have to do it this way, this is meant more for n/a ecu's that would have the wrong fueling or timing for boost, but the tt ecu handles all that just fine, so at the end of the day on a tt ecu you only need to trick the map sensor, so you don't need to wire in intercept mode. (you would want to if using the GE ecu).
I have my o2 sensor in, I don't disconnect them. if you get the tune close enough, you can leave them in and it will help. its when your map ecu tune sucks, does the stock ecu and o2 sensor fights it, but if the tune is on, then the stock ecu just does small trim adjustments like it used to do. it took some adjusting to get it where I wanted it but the basemap they give you is pretty good, I just had to move the whole map up/down some until it was right but its probably cause I am at a high elevation.
If you take the extra time to get it close and use the factory o2 sensor, you wont have to mess with dual maps and all that silly stuff. I only have 1 map on mine. I never understood why some are so quick to disconnect the o2 sensor. if the ecu is fighting you don't disable it by pulling the o2 sensor, it was trying to tell you you were way off is all. if you weren't way off then it wouldn't fight the map ecu. again this is on a turbo ecu that knows what its doing like the 2jzgte ecu.
I can't tell much difference between the gte ecu and 440's vs the map ecu and 550's once i got it dialed in, and now I have more fuel for boost with the 550's. Its a great piggyback I would recommend it for the tt ecu mod, had no issues after I set it up and I was even able to dial in my Air fuel ratios in boost now.
before with the 440's I would be around a 12:1 on my higher psi end 18-20lbs, which is starting to lean out.
with the 550's I was able to add more fuel to bring that into a soild 10-11 afr which is what I like for those higher amounts of boost.
I will say a safc is much simpler to setup, as in you just doing % instead of setting up a whole map, but going with the map ecu is worth it because you get more options and adjust ability. just be sure to do some research on it, and you really only need a v1 unless you want all the extra features which are nice, but by the time you get a 2jzgte ecu and a map ecu 3, you could have probably gone aem ems for similar money these days (minus the tune), so something to think about.
it takes some initial setup time, as it wont run perfect out of the box until you do some adjusting, but its pretty easy to get it close, and if you get it close the factory ecu will take care of the rest via the o2 sensor. at least this is with the map ecu v1 replacing the map sensor.
I noticed someone said intercept mode which doesn't trick the map sensor, but actually intercepts the injector wires, this is a mroe advanced stage of piggyback, and with the tt ecu mod you don't really have to do it this way, this is meant more for n/a ecu's that would have the wrong fueling or timing for boost, but the tt ecu handles all that just fine, so at the end of the day on a tt ecu you only need to trick the map sensor, so you don't need to wire in intercept mode. (you would want to if using the GE ecu).
I have my o2 sensor in, I don't disconnect them. if you get the tune close enough, you can leave them in and it will help. its when your map ecu tune sucks, does the stock ecu and o2 sensor fights it, but if the tune is on, then the stock ecu just does small trim adjustments like it used to do. it took some adjusting to get it where I wanted it but the basemap they give you is pretty good, I just had to move the whole map up/down some until it was right but its probably cause I am at a high elevation.
If you take the extra time to get it close and use the factory o2 sensor, you wont have to mess with dual maps and all that silly stuff. I only have 1 map on mine. I never understood why some are so quick to disconnect the o2 sensor. if the ecu is fighting you don't disable it by pulling the o2 sensor, it was trying to tell you you were way off is all. if you weren't way off then it wouldn't fight the map ecu. again this is on a turbo ecu that knows what its doing like the 2jzgte ecu.
I can't tell much difference between the gte ecu and 440's vs the map ecu and 550's once i got it dialed in, and now I have more fuel for boost with the 550's. Its a great piggyback I would recommend it for the tt ecu mod, had no issues after I set it up and I was even able to dial in my Air fuel ratios in boost now.
before with the 440's I would be around a 12:1 on my higher psi end 18-20lbs, which is starting to lean out.
with the 550's I was able to add more fuel to bring that into a soild 10-11 afr which is what I like for those higher amounts of boost.
I will say a safc is much simpler to setup, as in you just doing % instead of setting up a whole map, but going with the map ecu is worth it because you get more options and adjust ability. just be sure to do some research on it, and you really only need a v1 unless you want all the extra features which are nice, but by the time you get a 2jzgte ecu and a map ecu 3, you could have probably gone aem ems for similar money these days (minus the tune), so something to think about.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-07-15 at 10:28 AM.
07-07-15, 11:12 AM
#7
I am using the map ecu v1, the map ecu v3 is similar with a bunch of extra features on it I think you can even have wifi and use an iphone on it. I haven't used a v3 but the map ecu v1 works great with the tt ecu mod, I see no reason why the v2 or v3 wouldn't be even better.
it takes some initial setup time, as it wont run perfect out of the box until you do some adjusting, but its pretty easy to get it close, and if you get it close the factory ecu will take care of the rest via the o2 sensor. at least this is with the map ecu v1 replacing the map sensor.
I noticed someone said intercept mode which doesn't trick the map sensor, but actually intercepts the injector wires, this is a mroe advanced stage of piggyback, and with the tt ecu mod you don't really have to do it this way, this is meant more for n/a ecu's that would have the wrong fueling or timing for boost, but the tt ecu handles all that just fine, so at the end of the day on a tt ecu you only need to trick the map sensor, so you don't need to wire in intercept mode. (you would want to if using the GE ecu).
I have my o2 sensor in, I don't disconnect them. if you get the tune close enough, you can leave them in and it will help. its when your map ecu tune sucks, does the stock ecu and o2 sensor fights it, but if the tune is on, then the stock ecu just does small trim adjustments like it used to do. it took some adjusting to get it where I wanted it but the basemap they give you is pretty good, I just had to move the whole map up/down some until it was right but its probably cause I am at a high elevation.
If you take the extra time to get it close and use the factory o2 sensor, you wont have to mess with dual maps and all that silly stuff. I only have 1 map on mine. I never understood why some are so quick to disconnect the o2 sensor. if the ecu is fighting you don't disable it by pulling the o2 sensor, it was trying to tell you you were way off is all. if you weren't way off then it wouldn't fight the map ecu. again this is on a turbo ecu that knows what its doing like the 2jzgte ecu.
I can't tell much difference between the gte ecu and 440's vs the map ecu and 550's once i got it dialed in, and now I have more fuel for boost with the 550's. Its a great piggyback I would recommend it for the tt ecu mod, had no issues after I set it up and I was even able to dial in my Air fuel ratios in boost now.
before with the 440's I would be around a 12:1 on my higher psi end 18-20lbs, which is starting to lean out.
with the 550's I was able to add more fuel to bring that into a soild 10-11 afr which is what I like for those higher amounts of boost.
I will say a safc is much simpler to setup, as in you just doing % instead of setting up a whole map, but going with the map ecu is worth it because you get more options and adjust ability. just be sure to do some research on it, and you really only need a v1 unless you want all the extra features which are nice, but by the time you get a 2jzgte ecu and a map ecu 3, you could have probably gone aem ems for similar money these days (minus the tune), so something to think about.
it takes some initial setup time, as it wont run perfect out of the box until you do some adjusting, but its pretty easy to get it close, and if you get it close the factory ecu will take care of the rest via the o2 sensor. at least this is with the map ecu v1 replacing the map sensor.
I noticed someone said intercept mode which doesn't trick the map sensor, but actually intercepts the injector wires, this is a mroe advanced stage of piggyback, and with the tt ecu mod you don't really have to do it this way, this is meant more for n/a ecu's that would have the wrong fueling or timing for boost, but the tt ecu handles all that just fine, so at the end of the day on a tt ecu you only need to trick the map sensor, so you don't need to wire in intercept mode. (you would want to if using the GE ecu).
I have my o2 sensor in, I don't disconnect them. if you get the tune close enough, you can leave them in and it will help. its when your map ecu tune sucks, does the stock ecu and o2 sensor fights it, but if the tune is on, then the stock ecu just does small trim adjustments like it used to do. it took some adjusting to get it where I wanted it but the basemap they give you is pretty good, I just had to move the whole map up/down some until it was right but its probably cause I am at a high elevation.
If you take the extra time to get it close and use the factory o2 sensor, you wont have to mess with dual maps and all that silly stuff. I only have 1 map on mine. I never understood why some are so quick to disconnect the o2 sensor. if the ecu is fighting you don't disable it by pulling the o2 sensor, it was trying to tell you you were way off is all. if you weren't way off then it wouldn't fight the map ecu. again this is on a turbo ecu that knows what its doing like the 2jzgte ecu.
I can't tell much difference between the gte ecu and 440's vs the map ecu and 550's once i got it dialed in, and now I have more fuel for boost with the 550's. Its a great piggyback I would recommend it for the tt ecu mod, had no issues after I set it up and I was even able to dial in my Air fuel ratios in boost now.
before with the 440's I would be around a 12:1 on my higher psi end 18-20lbs, which is starting to lean out.
with the 550's I was able to add more fuel to bring that into a soild 10-11 afr which is what I like for those higher amounts of boost.
I will say a safc is much simpler to setup, as in you just doing % instead of setting up a whole map, but going with the map ecu is worth it because you get more options and adjust ability. just be sure to do some research on it, and you really only need a v1 unless you want all the extra features which are nice, but by the time you get a 2jzgte ecu and a map ecu 3, you could have probably gone aem ems for similar money these days (minus the tune), so something to think about.
I am curious to know what your AFR's are at cold startup? I had to use two maps because if not, then at startup and all the way until just about closed loop, it runs pig rich because I am using larger than stock injectors. The idea behind the map ecu is that you are supposed to wait until the car is 100% warm, then dial in the tune to as close to the stock tune as possible. Then as you said, the oem ecu will trim it to perfect (providing that your tune is pretty close).
Therefore, you are supposed to let the OEM ecu completely handle open loop. If you do that with larger injectors than stock, then it will run really rich because the oem ecu does not know that you are using larger injectors. In my case, I am using 440's, when the 1jz oem ecu thinks that 370's are in. So, that's why I said screw it, and use 2 maps. Once I see and feel the car switch over to closed loop (starts to run leaner as the cold start enrichment gets pulled out), I flip the switch to a second map that is heavier on the fuel since there is no longer any fuel enrichment from the oem ecu. This works pretty good for me so far. Not perfect, but pretty darn good. I will eventually get to playing with the coolant temp compensation function, which I think will be able to handle this issue..
Keith
Also, please note edit to my above post. You are intercepting IGNITOR signals, not injector signals. With MAP ECU V3, you can control timing, and these must be wired to do so
Last edited by LoveSCs; 07-07-15 at 11:15 AM.
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07-07-15, 11:34 AM
#8
my cold start up and warm afr's are the same as with the 440cc stock injectors.
its about 11-12 cold start, and then after 30 seconds the heated o2 sensor kicks in and its at 14.8.
is your 1jz running off a map sensor or is a vvti with the maf?
it might be alittle different for a 1j since it came with even smaller injectors but normally you don't tune the map versions when its warm its just off simple load calculations.
I do not tune the map ecu when the car is warm with the JDM GTE ecu.
because its an originally map sensor based ecu, all you do is take the stock map sensor values (there is a learn mode or use the base map), and you scale them. if you start adjusting individual cells however you see fit, the ecu will freak out because on one cell the trim will be one way and the next cell it will be the other way, you have ruined the linearality of a map sensor based ecu and simple o2 feedback. the idea is you move the whole map up and down in value together, so the trim from the o2 is always in the same direction, then the ecu does not freak out, and you dont have the cold and warm start problem.
now if you pull the o2 and start tuning individual cells, you can do that, but you will need 2 maps.
my reasoning is since we changed to an ecu that actually delivers proper fuel and timing for boost and just needs to be scaled, there is no reason you should be making any changes in closed loop other than the scaling for injectors, and then make any specific changes you want in the boost cells where its always in open loop. then you get a happy ecu and a happy driving piggyback with no switching of maps.
if you have a stock GE ecu as in non turbo ecu, then you would want to pull the o2 sensor and deal with the crappiness of having 2 maps, because with the GE ecu it can't handle closed loop so you have to do all these workarounds. with the gte ecu, its simply unnecessary.
you will notice that the stock map ecu basemap has the same values across the rows for a given load.
on a map sensor based ecu it only wants to know what the load is doesn't even care about rpm changes, and if you start changing those things how the stock ecu doesn't like it then you find yourself in your current situation.
again JDM map based 2jzgte ecu. scale the map for the injectors in the vacuum section, in the boost section you will want to play with the numbers usually lowering them from the 440cc value to home in on the afr you want. start rich and tune it down, and whats nice is you can control boost cut on even the v1, just dont enter a value above 3600 and you wont get boost cut, set the next row to like 4200 and it will boost cut, its simple stuff.
I see what you mean about intercept and its for the timing, again you wouldn't need that with the gte ecu as it delivers proper timing for boost, but if you were using a GE or non turbo ecu you would use this feature.
I thought maybe it was for fuel, but yeah normally they use it on the signal to the igniter to delay the timing, they cannot advance the timing, only delay it. again on my v1 I just use the gte timing, no problems here.
I know the aem fic can be wired in injector intercept mode, which is essentially like a standalone but keeping the stock ecu in the loop just to keep the lights happy.
Basically in summary what it comes down to is the map ecu is very versatile.
It can be used on non-turbo ecu's by disconnecting the o2 sensor and literally tuning everything and having 2 maps and a coolant function,
or...
It can be used on a turbo ecu as a simple scaler and gives you full control over boost cells in open loop. stock ecu takes care of coolant and everything.
I have tried it the way you are doing it and I was never happy with it, I would not recommend a piggyback setup that you need to pull the o2 sensor on even if it uses its own wideband. at that point one should just go standalone and it would actually be less hassle.
its about 11-12 cold start, and then after 30 seconds the heated o2 sensor kicks in and its at 14.8.
is your 1jz running off a map sensor or is a vvti with the maf?
it might be alittle different for a 1j since it came with even smaller injectors but normally you don't tune the map versions when its warm its just off simple load calculations.
I do not tune the map ecu when the car is warm with the JDM GTE ecu.
because its an originally map sensor based ecu, all you do is take the stock map sensor values (there is a learn mode or use the base map), and you scale them. if you start adjusting individual cells however you see fit, the ecu will freak out because on one cell the trim will be one way and the next cell it will be the other way, you have ruined the linearality of a map sensor based ecu and simple o2 feedback. the idea is you move the whole map up and down in value together, so the trim from the o2 is always in the same direction, then the ecu does not freak out, and you dont have the cold and warm start problem.
now if you pull the o2 and start tuning individual cells, you can do that, but you will need 2 maps.
my reasoning is since we changed to an ecu that actually delivers proper fuel and timing for boost and just needs to be scaled, there is no reason you should be making any changes in closed loop other than the scaling for injectors, and then make any specific changes you want in the boost cells where its always in open loop. then you get a happy ecu and a happy driving piggyback with no switching of maps.
if you have a stock GE ecu as in non turbo ecu, then you would want to pull the o2 sensor and deal with the crappiness of having 2 maps, because with the GE ecu it can't handle closed loop so you have to do all these workarounds. with the gte ecu, its simply unnecessary.
you will notice that the stock map ecu basemap has the same values across the rows for a given load.
on a map sensor based ecu it only wants to know what the load is doesn't even care about rpm changes, and if you start changing those things how the stock ecu doesn't like it then you find yourself in your current situation.
again JDM map based 2jzgte ecu. scale the map for the injectors in the vacuum section, in the boost section you will want to play with the numbers usually lowering them from the 440cc value to home in on the afr you want. start rich and tune it down, and whats nice is you can control boost cut on even the v1, just dont enter a value above 3600 and you wont get boost cut, set the next row to like 4200 and it will boost cut, its simple stuff.
I see what you mean about intercept and its for the timing, again you wouldn't need that with the gte ecu as it delivers proper timing for boost, but if you were using a GE or non turbo ecu you would use this feature.
I thought maybe it was for fuel, but yeah normally they use it on the signal to the igniter to delay the timing, they cannot advance the timing, only delay it. again on my v1 I just use the gte timing, no problems here.
I know the aem fic can be wired in injector intercept mode, which is essentially like a standalone but keeping the stock ecu in the loop just to keep the lights happy.
Basically in summary what it comes down to is the map ecu is very versatile.
It can be used on non-turbo ecu's by disconnecting the o2 sensor and literally tuning everything and having 2 maps and a coolant function,
or...
It can be used on a turbo ecu as a simple scaler and gives you full control over boost cells in open loop. stock ecu takes care of coolant and everything.
I have tried it the way you are doing it and I was never happy with it, I would not recommend a piggyback setup that you need to pull the o2 sensor on even if it uses its own wideband. at that point one should just go standalone and it would actually be less hassle.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-07-15 at 11:42 AM.
07-07-15, 12:22 PM
#9
Thanks Ali. Good information in that post above.
However, it's my understanding that the oem ecu will not even start looking at the O2 sensor until it sees that the coolant temp is up to temperature. The cold start enrichment is to protect the engine by feeding more fuel until the engine is up to temp.
So, that's just my issue. While it's in cold start enrichment mode, it is feeding fuel for 370cc injectors, but I have 440cc injectors so is really rich.
I have non-vvti 1JZ map based.
Someday, I will give some more things a try to dial it in perfect
However, it's my understanding that the oem ecu will not even start looking at the O2 sensor until it sees that the coolant temp is up to temperature. The cold start enrichment is to protect the engine by feeding more fuel until the engine is up to temp.
So, that's just my issue. While it's in cold start enrichment mode, it is feeding fuel for 370cc injectors, but I have 440cc injectors so is really rich.
I have non-vvti 1JZ map based.
Someday, I will give some more things a try to dial it in perfect
07-07-15, 01:02 PM
#10
the gte ecu uses heated o2 sensors and generally will start o2 feedback within 30 seconds of starting a warm car, or within a minute or so of starting a cold car. it does not take forever like ecu's that uses non heated o2 sensors.
coolant does not need to be up to temp, as soon as the o2 heats up and starts putting out a signal, it will kick the feedback on.
ok, so let me help explain again. the stock ecu has 370, and can handle cold start and warm up just fine.
now you have 440cc lets say its x% larger. you then go the map ecu basemap and you scale the map down some a small percentage of X (wont be exactly X the numbers on the map ecu are sensitive), and that "SCALES" for your new injectors.
so the only difference to the ecu is now you are leading a little less load all over, so you get a little less fuel all over, and the cold start and the warm start and evertyhing will run mostly like oem until you get run more than 150% larger injectors than stock, then the stock ecu tends to freak out some but is still maneagable.
you will still get the correct cold fueling and correct warm fueling. thats why the stock ecu has a coolant temp sensor on it. if you are having problems like the fuel isn't being pulled away when warm, then maybe your coolant temp sensor is not working, I would look into that.
coolant does not need to be up to temp, as soon as the o2 heats up and starts putting out a signal, it will kick the feedback on.
ok, so let me help explain again. the stock ecu has 370, and can handle cold start and warm up just fine.
now you have 440cc lets say its x% larger. you then go the map ecu basemap and you scale the map down some a small percentage of X (wont be exactly X the numbers on the map ecu are sensitive), and that "SCALES" for your new injectors.
so the only difference to the ecu is now you are leading a little less load all over, so you get a little less fuel all over, and the cold start and the warm start and evertyhing will run mostly like oem until you get run more than 150% larger injectors than stock, then the stock ecu tends to freak out some but is still maneagable.
you will still get the correct cold fueling and correct warm fueling. thats why the stock ecu has a coolant temp sensor on it. if you are having problems like the fuel isn't being pulled away when warm, then maybe your coolant temp sensor is not working, I would look into that.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-07-15 at 01:05 PM.
07-08-15, 04:19 PM
#11
OK...... i am convinced. Ali SC3 is not a human. He is a Bot. Not just any Bot, but a 12 Zettabyte Automotive technology Bot that has digitally modeled a great personality.
Ever wonder why he isn't in any of his videos?
Minions build his cars...........
All jokes aside, dude your knowledge and generosity are deeply appreciated......
Thank You!
Ever wonder why he isn't in any of his videos?
Minions build his cars...........
All jokes aside, dude your knowledge and generosity are deeply appreciated......
Thank You!
Last edited by Studiogeek; 07-08-15 at 04:23 PM.
07-09-15, 07:15 AM
#12
Yeah Ali great info! You've been a great help and I thoroughly read every one of your posts so that I know I don't skip anything.
I got an amazing deal on my MAPECU3, which is why I grabbed it. The Apexi NEO works fine but when I want a larger injector I have a feeling it won't be able to control it properly. The MAPECU3 also came with a brand new jumper / piggy back wired harness for it so the install should be really simple, no wire cutting necessary.
I got an amazing deal on my MAPECU3, which is why I grabbed it. The Apexi NEO works fine but when I want a larger injector I have a feeling it won't be able to control it properly. The MAPECU3 also came with a brand new jumper / piggy back wired harness for it so the install should be really simple, no wire cutting necessary.