SOARhighER

iTrader: (2)

Really need your guys help. I have been searching through massive amounts of threads and links over the past week, trying to figure out why my car wont rev past a certain point. My tach wont work for some reason, so i cant see exactly where it is cuttting off, but when i rev it, it hits a point where it stops and wont rev any further.

From what i read it can be numerous things, but people all say different ****. So i dont know where to start.

Most threads i found are about 1jz swaps in supras. the few i found on sc's are 95+ which i read is different than the 94 and below models.

One thread says it is the cam angle sensors, tps, or faulty ecu. Another thread says that it doesnt have anything to do with the sensors and that it is a wiring issue. another says its vacuum. another the igniter. And for every fix i see, there is another thread saying that isnt what it is.

Needless to say im at a loss. And i really need help as this is one of mine and my wifes 2 daily drivers.

I read that a non vvti soarer motor put into a pre 95 sc300 is plug and play. I checked my wiring and its all good. no shorts (from what i can see). My air bag light stays on all the time (even when key is not in the ignition). I have no CEL. all vacuum lines are secured.

again any help would be great. Another issue i have is after about 10m of idle, the car overheats. It looks as though the pump is working, I left the cap off to pull out any air bubbles, and i removed the thermostat, its still overheating. Is it really overheating? or is this another wire issue?

SC2JZ300

iTrader: (8)

First I would say fix your tach, it is simple soldering, and you can find it in one of my DIY threads.

People come up with w/ different conclusions because people go through deductive reasoning. Going through a checklist will help determine what is working and what isn't. Start w/ the basics or cheapest replacements in all you listed. You should add some more info,

Are you just sitting there revving the motor? Idle numbers? (You need to fix your tach)
Have you driven the car? If so, how does it drive?

Overheating is another issue on hand. One step at a time grasshopper.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Soarer is not plug and play even though it plugs in. Pins need to be moved around. Fix the tach and cel. It will be easy if you understand how to use a multi meter set to continuity. If not, get a multi meter and read about testing for continuity in the instructions. The airbag light will stay on sometimes after battery has been out and can be reset via the diagnostic port and is a separate issue from your swap.

Also, reading about people having similar problems and replacing parts or hunting grumpiness based on that is usually retarded. There's many different things that can cause these issues. Do some actual diagnostic work and eliminate problems as you go, like the other guy said, deductive reasoning. You'll be left with your problem eventually.

But start with the tach and the cel. I bet the temp gauge is wiring too. I'd eliminate those three issues, you'll greatly help yourself in doing so. Otherwise it's a shot in the dark.

Also, can use one of those thermal hear guns with the laser on the upper radiator neck and head to try to confirm its really overheating. But my bet is on wiring.

SOARhighER

iTrader: (2)

I guess i am just going to have to take it to a shop and see if i can get them to get it working. I dont have money to buy the tools needed. A good multimeter is expensive.

cool ill check that out thanks.

no. I read that if i do it it could melt a piston. so i try not to keep revving it.

I have driven the car, and it barely starts moving before it cuts out.

im not really sure how to fix the cel. or the overheating. if the overheating is a wire issue and it isnt really over heating then im not sure how to fix that. I would like to add that the upper rad hose does start to get hot and the water in the rad starts getting warm as well. does this mean that the pump IS working and that the gauge is just moving up to hot based on wiring?

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

If you can't afford a multimeter then you can't afford a shop to fix this. That also means you can't afford to keep this car.

OR... Go to harbor freight and spend $7 on their ****ty little red meter that's perfect for continuity and voltage tests. Then the next step is to stop believing everything you read on the web, then do some work. Did you do the timing belt? Did you do it right?

SOARhighER

iTrader: (2)

Bro, like really? why are you being such a ****? You telling me bull**** like i cant afford the car isnt helping me. im not believing everything i read on the web idiot that is why i am here asking. as for work, i been working on this car for 2-3 weeks. so go **** yourself. If you dont have any info to help then gtfo. I dont need your negative bull****.

Tommy150

iTrader: (2)

i had the same issue. check to see if your coil pack clips aren't loose the get loose when the harness gets pulled around. i and 2 of the 6 coil packs unplugged. than i purchased new clips for the coils, because from old age they get brittle and crack

Tommy150

iTrader: (2)

and that fixed my issue not being able to rev past 3k and the air bag issue is that your airbags aren't armed. i pulled the bulb because it can kill your battery, but there is a way of arming them again, but you risk setting the airbags off. a toyota dealership can re-arm them.

SOARhighER

iTrader: (2)

Thanks a lot tommy! Ill check that friday. See how it looks

SOARhighER

iTrader: (2)

Tommy you are ****ing awesome! So I had a little time so I checked my coils and sure enough one of them was loose on the terminal. I connected it and it runs like a dream! Thank you so much. This car is awesomely fast. Now to grt the overheat issue fixed which is leaps and bounds preferred over the misfiring lol

SOARhighER

iTrader: (2)

So i still have this overheating issue.

The water pump is working and the thermostat is out. when it overheats the hose is not stiff and the water isnt boiling and the needle hits hot after about 5-10m of idle. what could this be?

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

I like how you call me an idiot when you're the one that can't understand the logic of saying you can't afford a multimeter which are pretty much all under $100 for a decent competent meter, but are willing to take the car to a shop which usually average $100 an hour. Diagnostic time takes a couple hours usually. I'm also an idiot, but I'm not the one who went through reading every thing on the Internet instead of spending 5 minutes to look at their car to find broken ignition clips. I'm also not the one who's had an issue, ever, with the coolant temp sender. If I'm such an idiot, then how come I know you have it pinned in the wrong place? How come it's taken you so long to figure it out? How come you haven't figured it out? ****ing ******. It's called ik1, pin 9. That's where your coolant temp wire needs to be pinned. Unfortunately, "YOU CANT AFFORD" a multimeter, which also means like I said, you can not really afford this car or to keep it together if buying a cheap *** tool is gonna break you when said tool is more expensive than 99.9994774637288377464 most replacement parts for this vehicle. ( can't wait to see your thread about ball joints!). So here, let me hold your hand and fix your car for you. Borrow a multimeter, find your single wire coolant temp, and access the passenger kick panel and look for the body plugs. They're the ones that don't plug into the ecu. Find the color of the single wire temp sender, then look for the same colored wire on the body plugs. Then you use the meter you can't afford to confirm the wire you found on the body plug goes to the temp sender by using continuity. Then you take it and repin it into ik1, pin 9. It's the Orange body plug, and if you look at the connector as if if you were gonna plug it into your face, it reads left to right like a book. If you're looking at it from the back currently plugged in, it'll read right to left. Reread your comment about not being able to afford a meter, look up what you have in your car and what it's parts cost, and realize that if its true, you can't afford to keep this thing running. What are you gonna do when the twins blow? That's 1600 right there, hell, brake pads cost more than a meter that will be good enough to use on every endeavor for this car. At least decent ones. But you don't buy those do you?

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Also, plug ik2 has a wire at pin 24 that goes to the intake grounds. It is the ground reference for the cluster. The multimeter you can't afford would help you here too. Good luck. Keep boosting the **** out of your stock twins thinking that a stock 1j car is fast. pretty soon the turbos will blow then you'll be asking here about them instead of doing actual research ( that's based on the "my tach doesn't work and I don't know why" comment. Seriously, who puts stuff together without figuring out what they're getting into first? Hacks. That's who)

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

Some rude behavior in this thread I don't want to see repeated in the future