jlmason

Okay I've been searching and have found various solutions but I was wondering if someone might be able to help narrow it down.

1993 sc300 136k auto. Bone stock. No codes since I reset the battery as I have not been able to get it started. It threw a coolant temp sensor and erg code before I pulled the battery. It had just started to have a rough idle in the mornings or when it has sat for more than a few hours. Timing bt was supposedly changed at 92k from the sticker on the timing cover.
I had the upper hose bust on me while driving one night. Got it over to the side of the road and had it towed the next morning.

Replaced said hose, t-stat and refilled with coolant. Took it for a test drive and it started to heat up again. Pulled over, let it cool down and then limped home. Checked everything for leaks and found nothing. Rebled the system and it would start to get hot again after review to 3k with ac on. Pulled it into the garage and parked it.

Got a new fan clutch h and coolant sensor. When I got in it to start it to move it back it would crank fine but not catch. Replaced the cap and rotor today to no avail.

I see timing belts slipping, ecu's crapping out and a bunch of other stuff. Just looking for help as I just bought the car a few weeks ago and it was fine. Sorry for the long post.
jamie

jlmason

Just pulled a plug and it's getting fuel.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Welcome to CL, moved this thread to performance and maintenance.
Timing belts rarely slip that much if at all on these motors, and its easy to check the timing marks.

good thing you replaced the coolant sensor at least now it will have a better chance at starting and running better.
if its still heating up and you rebled the system it could be the dreaded blown headgasket. I would get a compression gauge tester and see if anything is showing up on there.

alltrac

Does the check engine light come on with the key in the "on" position? If the check engine light it on, it is a good thing. This just means that the computer has 12V input and is ready to start reading inputs from sensors and telling coils and injectors when and how much to fire. Did you have the no start issue before you changed the cap and rotors? Unplug the Air Flow Meter and see if it runs.


Most likely unrelated, but Is there water in the oil or oil in the water? To me, a blown radiator hose warrants a check of the head gaskets.

jlmason

The check light is on in the on position, still had the on start issue before cap and rotor. Coolant nor oil appear to be milky and the oil smells like oil. I'll do the air flow meter as soon as I get the last plug changed. They were all black and fuel soaked. Hope it's not the damn hg.

jlmason

Update. I got it started. Plugs were super bad and fuel covered.
now the bad....
has little whisps of white smoke out the tailpipes and the overflow bottle is percalating once it gets up to operating temp.

alltrac

That sucks. You could do a leak down test to be 100% sure, but all the symptoms are there for a blown head gasket. A compression test will not tell you what you need to know. A chemical test is probably the easiest test to confirm.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

sounds like a small bhg, pretty much the only time it happens on the 2jzge is when you overheat it enough.
It could just be air in the system, so try and burp it and get as much coolant in there. if its still doing it then yeah, headgasket time. don't keep running it hot or you will have to deck the head some. if you are lucky and caught it early the head might still be flat and you can just swap the HG, good luck if you have questions post them up.

try and find the 95 supra repair manual online, it has a 2jzge engine section and its pretty much identical to our setup.
follow it step by step and do some extra research if DIY, or else just let a good shop handle.

If you were considering swapping motors or installing a Gte headgasket to go na-t on pump gas, then now is the time for that since you will have the head off. consider doing the valve stem seals on the head also if you are taking it into the shop or feel like you can DIY but that part is a bit trickier than unbolting and bolting stuff.

jlmason

Yeah I plan to do the leak down just to make sure and then start gathering the stuff to do the hg and timing belt/water pump.
at least I can take the fan clutch back.lol