Heater Valve
#2
If its leaking where it pivots REPLACE IT. I just replaced mine recently for $15 from a donor. Way cheaper than buying from the Dealer. Another member here had to got to the Dealer and had to fork out $300+.
Last edited by 962jzsc415; 12-10-14 at 02:54 PM.
#4
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
I had a bad actuator and bought a used HCV unit that turned out to have a leaky valve. I was able to separate the pieces and use the good part from each to have a fully functional unit, salvaging the purchase. So, looking for a partially defective one might open up some cheaper avenues.
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (5)
If it's the valve itself (and not the VSV solenoid) that has gone bad, try this thread. I found an Everco part number that requires just a little Dremel modification and re-use of your original pivot arm to replace the factory valve. It's nearly the same thing as the factory HCV. My solution is on page #5 and there are pages of other research and different fixes from O.L.T. and other members.
The part I used is an Everco #74636. It was $30-$40 or so IIRC.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...l-valve-5.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...t-numbers.html
The part I used is an Everco #74636. It was $30-$40 or so IIRC.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...l-valve-5.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...t-numbers.html
Last edited by KahnBB6; 12-14-14 at 02:44 AM.
#6
Pole Position
To add to this - the valve itself is relatively cheap for anyone wanting to buy new, I recently paid $50 for a genuine OEM replacement from Japan.
88690-24060 VALVE, MAGNET (FOR IDLE UP DEVICE)
88690-24060 VALVE, MAGNET (FOR IDLE UP DEVICE)
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (5)
If so, that's only slightly more expensive than the Everco/Four Seasons valve I found and would require zero modification to fit.
Please say it's so!
Edit: I just tried the part number in the US parts system and it lists for $220.00 or more. I suppose this needs to be ordered overseas?
Last edited by KahnBB6; 12-11-14 at 02:04 AM.
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#9
Pole Position
Hang on Mike-- that Toyota part number is for just the VALVE itself and not the entire SC300/400 HCV assembly? And it fits US cars? To my knowledge Lexus/Toyota doesn't sell the plastic valve separately from the whole assembly.
If so, that's only slightly more expensive than the Everco/Four Seasons valve I found and would require zero modification to fit.
Please say it's so!
Edit: I just tried the part number in the US parts system and it lists for $220.00 or more. I suppose this needs to be ordered overseas?
If so, that's only slightly more expensive than the Everco/Four Seasons valve I found and would require zero modification to fit.
Please say it's so!
Edit: I just tried the part number in the US parts system and it lists for $220.00 or more. I suppose this needs to be ordered overseas?
I couldn't t see why it wouldn't be compatible with US cars, a few sites that I've listed below just as examples mention the same part # which state it can be purchased separate from the whole assembly available for the SC300/400. Then again I'm in no way confirming that it will.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-OES-G...-/360671116209
http://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-W0133-1740110-OES-Heater-Control/dp/compatibility-chart/B002WT9C3S
Not my photo, courtesy of Japanese owner "GLATOM" from his review blog.
Hope this helps.
"The reason why it is called the "idle up valve" is because when you turn the heater to cold and put the air con on, the strain on the engine to power up the air con pump is so great that the engine RPM will drop possibly causing the engine to stall or at least not run as a toyota engine should, so what it does is tell the ECU that the air con is on and this raises the RPM to enable us to have that smooth drive."
#10
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
Mike1JZ, that's the VSV (vacuum switching valve), not the heater control valve with the pivot that tends to develop a leak. The VSV controls the HCV's operation.
That Soarer World explanation is just as confusing as the part's description. Wouldn't the same strain be put on the engine starting up A/C, whether the HVAC is set to hot or cold? If so, the HCV would seem to have nothing to do with that sequence of events.
That Soarer World explanation is just as confusing as the part's description. Wouldn't the same strain be put on the engine starting up A/C, whether the HVAC is set to hot or cold? If so, the HCV would seem to have nothing to do with that sequence of events.
#12
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Heater Valve
Small drip at the arm. I disconnected the vacuum hose to stop the drip. Looking for a cheap replacement.
#13
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Alternate valve replacement
I purchased a V8 Commodore valve, from my local Autobarn. It required a 16mm (5/8") elbow and a short piece of vacuum hose. I purchased 4 clamps and a piece of 16mm heater hose, too, but that is up to you.