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VVTI Feedback Needed: NA-T or GTE

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Old 10-14-14, 09:06 AM
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SC3_Dred
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Default VVTI Feedback Needed: NA-T or GTE

My 2000 SC300 recently severely overheated when I failed to reconnect the coolant line to the throttle body after changing spark plugs. Needless to say, the head gasket failed and the cylinders are full of coolant. I've always intended to turbo the car once I got through with some other projects, so this turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The motor has 210k on it and I intended to do a full rebuild using OEM GTE internals and adding a mild (350-400whp) setup to the mix. Given the motor overheated as bad as it did, I'm skeptical about reusing the head at all.

Saying all that, I'm now leaning towards just getting a jdm GTE VVTI motor, resealing it and doing the usual water/oil pump, timing belt, etc... and simply dropping it in with the jdm ecu and a BPU setup. I live in a non-emission county, so I never worry about inspections and I believe the jdm ecu will fit the bill, given my goals. I'm thinking this would be the most cost/time effective and reliable solution for me. I would have the harness redone by Doug at WireGap, who is local to me and has done solid work for me in the past, and also make provision for an FIC while at it. Losing VVTI is not an option and the car needs to be simple and reliable. Additionally, I can fab, weld, install whatever is needed myself.

I've read tons of VVTI GTE threads and they seem extremely reliable and simple, if emissions is not a concern. I also like the uniqueness of having a 2k model with a true GTE VVTI in it. What are your thoughts; am I leaning in the right direction? TIA
Old 10-15-14, 05:03 AM
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99SC42
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Ok if I were you I would just do a Complete non VVTi swap, Use the TT stock OBD2 ECU, 550 Injectors, Resistor Box+ Maf sensor and Pass emission with flying colors.

Keep the obd2 part functional.

Its cheaper to just buy the complete swap than trying to source the VVTI head and other parts. You Na VVTi Ge bottom end is weak anyway, and I wouldn't just throw some gte internals in it, I would machine and deck the block etc...
Old 10-15-14, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 99SC42
Ok if I were you I would just do a Complete non VVTi swap, Use the TT stock OBD2 ECU, 550 Injectors, Resistor Box+ Maf sensor and Pass emission with flying colors.

Keep the obd2 part functional.

Its cheaper to just buy the complete swap than trying to source the VVTI head and other parts. You Na VVTi Ge bottom end is weak anyway, and I wouldn't just throw some gte internals in it, I would machine and deck the block etc...
Thanks for the feedback! Going non-VVTi is not an option for me and given my modest goals, the VVTi will really help. I'm not worrying about emissions, so that is why my thoughts went to the full VVTi GTE swap which is a lot less hassle and probably cheaper than trying to rebuild the GE motor; given the machine work involved. I'm always skeptical about re-using a motor that's been as hot as this one was.

Haven driven both stock and BPU VVTi and non-VVTi GTEs (GS300s), the VVTi GTE feels a lot more responsive and quicker.
Old 10-15-14, 10:05 AM
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buy non VVTi GTE shortblock, have your head analysed, put VVTi Head on non VVTi GTE shortblock and have the best of both worlds, as well as being able to keep factory wiring. up to what PSi can the NA ECU handle without having to have a tune?
Old 10-15-14, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by SC3_Dred
Thanks for the feedback! Going non-VVTi is not an option for me and given my modest goals, the VVTi will really help. I'm not worrying about emissions, so that is why my thoughts went to the full VVTi GTE swap which is a lot less hassle and probably cheaper than trying to rebuild the GE motor; given the machine work involved. I'm always skeptical about re-using a motor that's been as hot as this one was.

Haven driven both stock and BPU VVTi and non-VVTi GTEs (GS300s), the VVTi GTE feels a lot more responsive and quicker.
Ok good luck.
Originally Posted by PseudoK
buy non VVTi GTE shortblock, have your head analysed, put VVTi Head on non VVTi GTE shortblock and have the best of both worlds, as well as being able to keep factory wiring. up to what PSi can the NA ECU handle without having to have a tune?
You have no idea what you are talking about..lol , it doesn't work like that.
Old 10-15-14, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 99SC42
Ok good luck.

You have no idea what you are talking about..lol , it doesn't work like that.
Really? why so?
Old 10-15-14, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 99SC42
Ok if I were you I would just do a Complete non VVTi swap...

Its cheaper to just buy the complete swap than trying to source the VVTI head and other parts.
^^ Is this ever the truth. I could have bought two 2JZGTEs or three 1JZ's while doing it this way. If you don't have to worry about emissions testing it's easier and less painful to buy a complete used engine, inspect it, do all the major maintenance items and wiring and swap it rather than build a GTE piece by piece.

OP, I have also heard (from an engineer at AEM no less) that 2JZGTE VVT-i's are becoming more popular now that there are more aftermarket tuning options available.

And sorry to hear about your overheating mishap. I too have forgotten on one occasion to hook up that coolant bypass hose on the throttle body of my GE after a spark plug job. Luckily I caught it quickly but what a mess to vacuum and wipe out of the spark plug galley.
Old 10-15-14, 02:27 PM
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A vvti Gte swap is certainly a good option, and a swap in general is a much better option than reusing most of the parts on your motor. I agree the non-vvti would be easier and you can even keep emissions, but if you really don't need it then why not do a vvti gte swap. only wiring and stuff will hold you back and if you are willing to get it done then I don't see a problem.

the bottom end on your old vvti will require much to work to be economical, and being economical would be the only reason to do that instead of a swap. I only think vvti 2jzge's are worth boosting on low boost and enjoying them and hoping they don't "let loose". if its blown HG already then swap it out for an older 2jzge and na-t that or just get a gte swap of your flavor.
then engine block could make a nice side table =)
Old 10-16-14, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by PseudoK
Really? why so?
You were just asking how much PSi can the NA ECU handle without having to have a tune?
Zero psi, na ecu is garbage when you try to use it in a boosted application.

OP ,What are going to do about transmission? You na trans will not work with that gte vvti ecu...and buy the time you buy all the necessary , you might as well buy the complete swap, unless you get the parts for free.

I will cost you more trying to build your original block the proper way..I am trying to save you some time , headache and money.

You are more than welcome to put whatever you want in your ride
Old 10-16-14, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 99SC42
You were just asking how much PSi can the NA ECU handle without having to have a tune?
Zero psi, na ecu is garbage when you try to use it in a boosted application.

OP ,What are going to do about transmission? You na trans will not work with that gte vvti ecu...and buy the time you buy all the necessary , you might as well buy the complete swap, unless you get the parts for free.

I will cost you more trying to build your original block the proper way..I am trying to save you some time , headache and money.

You are more than welcome to put whatever you want in your ride
Yeah like I said I'm leaning heavily toward just getting the full 2jzgte VVTi swap with harness, ecu and tranny vs. going NA-T on my current VVTi GE setup. I was also told that a tranny simulator would enable me to use my existing tranny which is already shimmed and running an external cooler. Overall the GTE would come out cheaper in the long run if I decided get more out of the motor.

Thanks for all the feedback guys!
Old 10-16-14, 10:05 AM
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Ali SC3
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that trans still does not have the larger stuff inside of it that the gte ones do. you will rip through it in no time, although the cooler may help a little.
Old 10-16-14, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 99SC42
You were just asking how much PSi can the NA ECU handle without having to have a tune?
Zero psi, na ecu is garbage when you try to use it in a boosted application.
really? that sucks, I dont suppose you could use a GTE ECU with a VVTi GE harness?

is the VVTi system hydraulically controlled?
Old 10-16-14, 10:35 AM
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vvti is controled by oil pressure, but its hard to say what works on what. the pinouts and connectors are completely different on a non vvti than a vvti, and then vvti has different versions of how much the throttle body is controlled etc... so you are talkinga bout a complete re-wire and at that point you would just use a non vvti harness and disable vvti, but even that is alot of work compared to just grabbing a non vvti GE or any gte swap. its easier to get something to drop in than piece vvti stuff together. too many theoretical combinations that may or may not work to save a blown vvti ge.
Old 10-16-14, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
that trans still does not have the larger stuff inside of it that the gte ones do. you will rip through it in no time, although the cooler may help a little.
That's interesting; I haven't seen a lot of instances where guys were actually using the Aristo 4spd tranny. Do you know what the differences are? I thought the consensus was that the sc300 boxes were good for 400whp (+/-) once shimmed and cooled?
Old 10-16-14, 12:30 PM
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If we are talking swaps most swap it to a manual or use a gte auto trans that came with it. I don't know any swap that someoe re-used the GE trans with a gte motor.

on na-t maybe people have had it hold 400, but for how long?
300 to 350 now that sounds more doable with a cooler.
400+ range is what the gte auto's can handle.

The gte trans will have a larger toque converter and more clutch packs than the n/a auto.
I dunno where you got 400whp on the GE trans, 400hp will surely destroy it its just a matter of time.
shimming will only take the pressure off from shifts and the cooler can only help so much when you start laying power down with the smaller internals.

check out this thread now that clubna-t is back online. some good info here and there
http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=4145

DIFFERENCES

TT Auto

- HP Limit -425-450 w/ a good cooler.
- Valve body has 4 solenoids, the 4th solenoid controls line pressure electronically. This allows smoother shift modulation.
- Has a larger torque converter that is more efficient.
- TT torque converter requires use of a TT flexplate and TT flexplate bolts.
- Driveshaft bolts onto the transmission to a 3 bolt flange.
- Has a different input shaft than the n/a tranny.
- Has more clutch packs than the n/a auto.
- Valve body solenoids activate linearly allowing more precise transmission control.


N/A Auto

- HP Limit : ~325-350 w/ a good cooler
- Transmission line pressure is controlled by a cable and only has 3 solenoids in the valve body.
- Has a slip type tailshaft housing for the driveshaft. Driveshaft slips into the transmission itself.
- Valve body solenoids have an on and off activation.


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