dgb744

1992 SC400, 2nd owner (16 yrs), 128,00 miles, with less than 1 yr old duracell gel pack car acted to be cranking slower and resulting in slower starts. 1 start of the day sometimes had me guessing bad battery. Multiple starts of the day seemed less time to start. After making 3 stops (errands) and driving a steady 45 mph car died unexpectedly. I coasted into a convenience station (not that easy braking and steering). The car was much slower to turn over but all dash lights worked, windows rolled up and down. No ignition occured. I checked all heavy fuses in the engine area. Initially I thought the battery was shorted out? I removed it and took it home to put on my charger which tells the state of the battery which appeared to be normal. I put it under a 10 amp charge and it was not depleted and quickly charged to the highest setting of "being charged". I took a known good battery a large 850 amp battery and all though I could not hook it up to the connectors I did so through jumper cables and it would not turn the engine over.

I know I need spark, fuel and to crank it over well.

I've read about bypassing the fuel ecu or Fuel Pump control, is there an easy way to verify I have an operating fuel pump (listening for it or volt meter check?).

Is there a shrader fitting on the fuel bar I can push to see if fuel comes out?

Can I spray starting ether in the Throttle valve to see if I have ignition? Where?

The car is located in Stuart FL and I am seeking experienced mechanic to trouble shoot it.

HELP!!!!!

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (5)

Fuel pressure can be checked at the fuel rail. The fuel ECU is so erratic it might be just fine now when you check it.

I'm interested in your alternator. It sounds like you have enough voltage to at least crank the car so you should have enough to run it as well but I'm unsure if your alt is charging.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Where at exactly? The only place to plug in that I'm aware of is where the fuel line comes into the engine bay, but that coupling is basically welded on. The mechanic actually snapped a flare wrench in half trying to work it free. I also saw somewhere that you can connect in at the fuel pressure regulator with the right attachments.

dgb744

I returned with what I thought was a fully charged battery. It turned over slowly and stopped turning over. I opened up the diagnostic port and jumped Fp to +b to engage full 12vdc to the fuel pump. Turned it over and it hit but sounded a bit clanky and thought there could be some damage? At this point I believe I need to pull the plugs and turn it over by hand. Pull the timing covers off and investigate if the timing belt slipped.

Is this motor a "non interface motor", there by the engine will not destroy itself if the timing belt breaks?

INTIMAZY- I too am aware that the alternator may be inoperable but I never got any lights on the dash to indicate non charging.

I"m a bit freeked out by the sound I heard attempting to start, possibly this is a slipped timing, could a fuel pump outage cause the belt to slip? One would think not. I can't imagine the internal engine parts are damaged I'm thinking either ECU or FCU.
I'm reaching out to those in the know.
HELP!

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

You are correct, it's a non-interference motor. The later VVTI models are interference.

dgb744

UPDATE: water pump seized and twisted causing belt to slip.
I replaced pump and belt along with cam/crank seals and car runs. No valve train damage.
I believe this engine is a INTERFERENCE MOTOR. I got lucky

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you got lucky that the motor is a non-inteference. do you really think you had an inteference motor at 45 mph where the belt slips and you somehow miraculously did not have a single of the 32 valves get bent... don't believe everything the shop says it is for a fact a non-inteference motor.

dgb744

Yes I would agree that the Lexus and other Toyota mechanics gave me bogus information. It must be a non interferance motor. What other years of the SC400 are of this type?