Alternator Replacement write up/w Pic's
06-29-14, 06:48 PM
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Alternator Replacement write up/w Pic's
Alright folks my alternator went out on me last week and finally had some time to get it swapped out, I couldn't really find anything with pictures so I took a few to try to help out. I had to remove the fan, shroud and battery tray because I didn't have room because the bottom bolt was rusted and rounded on me. So to start I removed the ( + ) battery cable. My serpentine belt was really starting to crack so I took mine completely off to get replaced. to release the tension on the tensioner I interlocked 2 wrenches and pulled clockwise or towards the drivers side I guess and had my buddy pull the belt off the pulley. Once that was off I removed the connector towards the back of the alternator with a mini flat head screw driver, then the 12 mm nut. So now would be the last 2 bolts holding the Alternator on, start with the bottom bolt otherwise the alternator could shift if the top bolt is off and you put some pressure on the bottom bolt .
So the first picture is showing where the bottom bolt is, it's where the 2 lines are and the bracket is attached in the middle of the picture. And the second picture ( I know my radiator needs TLC ) is the engine bay, I removed the screws holding the shroud on (thanks previous owner) and pried it open enough to remove the fan. after that I had to remove the battery cables, and took out the battery and removed the 3 bolts holding the tray on, and remove the shroud. Then I was able to get plenty of access to remove the last bolt. Now make sure to check the distributor for oil leakage which is why the alternator went out in the 1st place, that and it's been rolling for 170k miles. Hope this helps!
So the first picture is showing where the bottom bolt is, it's where the 2 lines are and the bracket is attached in the middle of the picture. And the second picture ( I know my radiator needs TLC ) is the engine bay, I removed the screws holding the shroud on (thanks previous owner) and pried it open enough to remove the fan. after that I had to remove the battery cables, and took out the battery and removed the 3 bolts holding the tray on, and remove the shroud. Then I was able to get plenty of access to remove the last bolt. Now make sure to check the distributor for oil leakage which is why the alternator went out in the 1st place, that and it's been rolling for 170k miles. Hope this helps!
Last edited by SANDSTONE; 06-29-14 at 07:04 PM.
07-03-14, 02:08 PM
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Thanks for the write up.
I would like to add that in my experience the rectifier/regulator modules on the alternators have been good when alternators have died on me in various SC's (300 and 400).
It is possible to take a different gen alternator and swap the existing rectifier module on to get up and running. By different gen, I mean 92-94 with the round harness socket and 95-up with the squarish. The rectifiers swap between alternators no problem, so it doesn't matter much if you get a used alt with the wrong plug if your rectifier is good.
I would like to add that in my experience the rectifier/regulator modules on the alternators have been good when alternators have died on me in various SC's (300 and 400).
It is possible to take a different gen alternator and swap the existing rectifier module on to get up and running. By different gen, I mean 92-94 with the round harness socket and 95-up with the squarish. The rectifiers swap between alternators no problem, so it doesn't matter much if you get a used alt with the wrong plug if your rectifier is good.
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