Misfiring after MAF cleaning
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Misfiring after MAF cleaning
What's going on guys I'm having a little bit of trouble and I am confused. I read the entire thread on how to properly clean the MAF and of course it started misfiring as soon as I put it back in. I am currently letting it dry until I get home from work. Also, I hear that you can unplug your MAf but it will set off your check engine light. But when i unplug mines the car shuts off. If the engine is running and I unplug it the car shuts off instantly. I have replaced my alternator, battery, plugs, wires and distributor cap. Before I cleaned the MAF my car would idle at 200-400 after being warm that's why I cleaned my MAF. Any help would be gladly appreciated. I just want my car back to normal.
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To OP, if your SC is pre 95, then, yes, you damaged your AFM. They will break if sprayed with industrial TB cleaner, or anything liquid, for that matter.
#6
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yeah its probably toast, but you can try taking a hair dryer to the insides of it as well as using a can of compressed air on the black part very carefully.
They actually started putting a warning label on the back of the maf cleaner cans that say not to use for some lexus and toyota models, and odb1 sc's fall into this category. It was probably not the original problem, do you have a 300? check the idle control valve later on it might be bad.
They actually started putting a warning label on the back of the maf cleaner cans that say not to use for some lexus and toyota models, and odb1 sc's fall into this category. It was probably not the original problem, do you have a 300? check the idle control valve later on it might be bad.
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Thanks for your responses my SC is a 94. I am still wondering why the engine will not run without the MAF connected. Like I said I replaced so many things that its driving me crazy. I forgot to add that I have also replaced my ECU. I picked up a can of compressed air at work and when I get home I am going to pray that it works. In the case that the MAF is ruined does someone here have one for sale?
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I also have another question that is total different then the topic at hand. My battery light is on and I replaced my alternator. I know I have some sort of grounding issue. My question is how exactly am I suppose to replace my battery terminal ground and where does it go from the battery? i have researched many threads and none of them give me clear direction on how to properly replace it.
#10
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its just a ground strap the goes from the battery, to a bolt on the chassis about 1 foot away from it next to the fuse box if you follow it or look at it you can't miss it. you would just remove the old one and replace, take the old one out for length and match the type of terminals.
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its just a ground strap the goes from the battery, to a bolt on the chassis about 1 foot away from it next to the fuse box if you follow it or look at it you can't miss it. you would just remove the old one and replace, take the old one out for length and match the type of terminals.
#12
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yeah I almost have taken those instructions down several times, they are really a last effort sort of thing, I wouldn't ever do it on a maf that is working, or suspected of not workig, because alot of times the problem is something entirely else and then you also have a bad maf, but good news is after like 3 attempts where it wouldn't run I finally managed to clean and dry it right on round 4 and it started working again, so keep at it and glass cleaner would probably be a better cleaner to use than maf cleaner in the future everything in there works off light, mirrors, and refraction, so you can imagine any grease smudges would be like trying to look at it through a coke bottle for the maf, it will never see whats actually happening with smudges it will be distrorted and that type of maf reads vortexes or distortions in the air so you can imagine now why the car has no idea whats going on.
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yeah I almost have taken those instructions down several times, they are really a last effort sort of thing, I wouldn't ever do it on a maf that is working, or suspected of not workig, because alot of times the problem is something entirely else and then you also have a bad maf, but good news is after like 3 attempts where it wouldn't run I finally managed to clean and dry it right on round 4 and it started working again, so keep at it and glass cleaner would probably be a better cleaner to use than maf cleaner in the future everything in there works off light, mirrors, and refraction, so you can imagine any grease smudges would be like trying to look at it through a coke bottle for the maf, it will never see whats actually happening with smudges it will be distrorted and that type of maf reads vortexes or distortions in the air so you can imagine now why the car has no idea whats going on.
#14
Well I went to my local junkyard and found a MAF I got it from a 95 GS 300. I got home put it in and it ran find. After that I reset the computer, fired her up and took her for a spend for about 15-30 mis or so. Then out of no where she stalled and wouldn't stay on unless I gave her gas. I parked her and disconnected the battery cable for awhile reconnected it and started her up. Now she runs but stalls after 3 or for minsI'm stumped.
Is your car a 1995? If it is 15 yrs of age or more, chances r pretty good your ECU is tanking.
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Update I went to a not so local junkyard today in search of a MAF and when I arrived to my surprise theree was a 94 LS 400 and a 95 GS 300. To make a long story short I got 2 MAFs for the price of 1. Plugged in the LS MAF and I drove around all day to problems except for a little bit of hesitation. When I drive aggressively no problem, but when I cruise I feel a little hesitiatio n in between gears. Any ideas?