SCereal

iTrader: (4)

Tearing into my car I found that there's a coolant line in the stock tb i need to deal with. What does everyone do for this? Any reason not to just run a hose between the fittings looped around back of block? I don't want to cap them off. I'm not retaining stock anything intake side. Are there gte parts I could swap on to make it cleaner?

Second, how does everyone deal with the giant plastic wiring shroud by the injectors? Just take it off and wrap up wires with conduit? Seems really big and in the way and I want as clean an install as I can get.

Thx!

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

I cut the rubber off and inserted a bolt + worm clamp on both sides near the water pipe on the exhaust side near the firewall, and under the intake manifold.

This of course is probably not the best method but it's worked for me. You could pull the water pipe off and have it pinched / welded shut to.

As far as the shroud you can approach the FFIM install two ways.

Keep the shroud and bolt it to the top of the lower runners like stock. It's simple, easy and fits like stock. This of course doesn't look very appealing but keeping it stock sometimes simplifies the process.

Remove the shroud and re-loom the wires under the lower runner. I found this looked best but it really tightened the harness and caused issues with length to certain sensors. I ended up having to lengthen some of the harness clips to reach properly.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, that's what I was figuring. I'll probably leave the shroud in place to start to keep things as simple as possible assuming all the sensor leads will reach their new locations. As for the coolant, I'm going to look into running a hose and see how that goes and research more for a permanent solution. I have a feeling most people who went FFIM on a GE motor just did as you did and capped it off.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

remove the piece , have your welder remove the end piece , its only press fit in , then weld the port shut .. you dont want to develop a leak there for its impossible to fix with the ffim on .. i use that port to run a coolant line to my dbb turbo but i couldnt imagine trying to fix a leak in that area on side of road

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I capped off the passenger side, and on the drivers side, you can remove the coolant pipe coming off the block, use a pair of pressure pliers of vice grips and grab on the coolant nipple, and twist it a few times and itll work its way out. then you can tap the hole there with a 1/8 npt fitting, and then use pipe thread sealer on a 1/8 npt plug and tighten it up.
you can't do that on the passenger side because on that side its a metal pipe, not something you can tap easily.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

Excellent points, thank you for chiming in. I like the idea of tapping it and plugging it. Could maybe use it for a temp sender port. For the passenger side, i'll see if i can braze on a cap or just have it welded shut.

thanks!!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yeah its a perfect spot for a temp sender if you need one and most of those are or have an adapter to 1/8 npt fittings.
I didn't have an extra coolant sensor so It was a plug for me, but since its on the feed side and around the main coolant sensor anyways you should have a fairly good reading from there.
passenger side its ideal to weld it or if its possible to braze on something I guess that would work. Wonder what its made out of if brazing would work that is something very simple anyone with a torch can do.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

Dont really NEED one but the popformance climate control has 8 gauge inputs so why not? lol

I'll update my build thread once I know what works on the rear bit.