Halon

iTrader: (6)

Ali, how much boost are you running, and what turbo?

PS, dizzy cover looks pimp

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Hi Shane, yeah if you just want to do something simple then take off the passenger filter and route it to a catch can, the can will catch the oil. most can's ahve spots for 2 lines and one large breather at least so if you are just running the one line you just put a plug on the other threaded fitting. I think I saw in your thread you already picked one up, thats a good kind should work out fine but remember to drain the thing every once in a while or it will spill out eventually.

I would still reccomend making the hole larger on the passenger side breather so the line you run will be more effective and you wont push out as much oil, but the can will still catch the oil either way.

Thanks Halon. Its a pretty old XSpower turbo kit I have on there, supposed to be the 61mm turbo kit but someone measured them recently and they spec out closer to a 67mm turbo with a smaller hotside to clear the stock intake. I usually run 18 psi, no idea what power it makes really need to make it to a dyno but I might have sprung a rear main seal leak which will take some time to deal with. I am 100% been planning on moving to a bw s366 and do all new inter cooler piping but just not sure when it will happen.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

Gotcha. I'm on 61mm @ 20psi, so if you're not seeing any oil 'spray' with your setup, I probably wouldn't either right now. Wonder though once I turn it up to 30psi.

BW366 is beastly. What are your goals? My BW 61mm is pretty damn fun.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I want to say around the 20+ psi mark on a good flowing turbo (like a BW or precision) it may get worse with oil spray as I see everyone with that setup has a catch can. So around there its probably a good idea to have a catch can just in case cause its better for it to go in the can then on the ground and slip up the rear end, but this works pretty well up to a certain point and I haven't gotten there yet.

what is your current setup? normally you have a good idea if you are spraying oil already or not and you can incrementally see if you have issues. unforunately this was a guess and check process for me, I had spraying issues with the stock breather and pcv as shown. then I deleted the pcv and had no issues, but everytime I put that pcv back on there, I have some issues and then better have a can to catch it.

I can't imagine you doing 20 psi on that turbo with the stock breather line or a 3/8 filter on the stock barb and not filling up a catch can every week or spraying oil unless your piston rings are pristine. I assume you did something to it at those levels but every motor is different so interested to hear.

whats the code on that turbo, is that a s361 or s360? I did look into those and it does sound like a good option as well I do like how fast my turbo spools up on the street yours would probably have similar spool but with more flow up top. I figure the s366 will be a good bit slower in the spool department but I like how it sounds and how much air it moves on top pretty sure I would pick up many horses at the same 18 psi. I'm still on the fence with what route to go I can't decide if I want to keep it a street vehicle or purpose build it for the track. IT used to have to be a daily driver but now that I have a second vehicle that I don't take apart all the time I am thinking I can go more aggressive with my next setup =)

This year I def hit some "wrenching fatigue" so I am taking a break for a while. still got that whole 350z 6 speed project waiting around likely if it is my main seal thats blown the w58 will not be going back in.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

Current setup as far as CCV is both ports on the top of the GE valve covers have a 90* fitting that is the stock hole size. Then matching sized hoses connected to the other end of that fitting, and those to hoses then Y together to a single hose (same size as the two hoses), which just points straight down to the road Not ideal what so ever, it was more of a git 'r done solution. Which is why it's on my list of things to address.

My turbo is an actual BW unit, so it's part number is S300SX 84-75. The whole S360, S366 numbering scheme is what aftermarket companies such as Bullseye started using for their variants, I suppose to make it easier for consumers to understand. But if you wanted to call it a number like that, I guess it'd be an S361. The off-the-shelf turbos in BW's S300SX line are the 83-75 (S360 - 68lb/in), 88-75 (S362 - 75lb/min), and 91-79 (S366 - 82lb/min).
Mine was a special arrangement that BW does for Full Race, basically fills the gap between the 83-75 and 88-75. Uses the 75 exhaust wheel off the 88-75, but pairs it with a different off the shelf comp wheel that is 61mm. It's rated at 72lb/min. So 500-600 numbers are easily attainable, and 700's should be within reach if you want to run it hard. I'm at 561hp right now at 20psi, which I consider to be pretty mild. Next year I'll turn it up to 30psi and see how close I come to 700. Mine is in the .91 Divided T4 housing, best housing IMO.

If you're goals are the 500-600 range, I'd recommend not going with the 66mm as you'll be sacraficing a lot of spool for power levels that are easily attainable with a smaller more responsive turbo. I actually wonder if I shoulda gone with the smaller 60mm. It sounds like only 1mm difference, but it is more responsive as it's 75mm exh wheel is actually a different design that is better for spool. Or if you have the coin to drop $2k on a turbo, the EFR line is sick. But the S300's are under a grand, last forever, heck of a bang for the buck.

Last note, you mentioned the sound. Mine makes the sound, watch my videos I have the S361 right now, had the S362 in my DSM. The OEM borg comp wheels will give you that sound in any of the S300 line.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

thanks for the detailed explanation, I see they are all variants of the s300x.
if I went with the s366 I would be looking for 700-800 for sure, I don't need any more than that on this car.
A healthy 600 might be worth it going with the s362 or 61 like you have if it spools that much faster, will need to think about what I want to do with the car, have debating setting it up in the future for drag but I know I would likely have more fun taking it to a track.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

Bringing this one back from the dead as I'm about to embark on this same thing. I have two spare valve covers sitting here, so I'm actually just going to drill out the hole on each VC and get an -AN bung welded onto each. I'll just clamp some filters onto them for now as I'm sure they'll clamp onto the AN fittings just fine, but then that way I can run AN lines in the future if I ever switch to a catch can setup.

I planned on doing -10AN sized fittings, but since I'm cutting my own new holes and welding fittings on, I can pretty much do whatever size I want. So I was starting to wonder, should I go -12AN? Is there any downfall to going bigger?

Or I could just weld in a 3/8" NPT bung and throw barbed fittings on for now, and ditch the barbed for a -10AN in the future. I think 3/8 NPT might be a bit small though for a -12 setup.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220072/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220062/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220063/overview/

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I think 2 x -10 an should be enough. -12 is a bit large to make the holes in the valvecover but it is doable.

Generally if you drill and tap as in the thread you can run barb or -10 AN fittings with just changing out the fitting.
Usually stay away from welding because its a magnesium alloy so the shavings can catch on fire and you need a chemical to put it out, also not sure how good it will weld.

Generally people weld the fittings on the GTE valvecovers because they are aluminum, but the GE are Mg which is quite annoying at times.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

Oh geez, I guess I just assumed these VC's were Aluminum. Glad I posted now, lol. OK So based on that, I'll try two -10 fittings. According to this site, it seems like the ideal size to mate that up with would be a 1/2"-NPT?

https://aeromotiveinc.com/an-vs-npt/

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yes I used a 1/2" NPT tap on the drivers side PCV hole (its already the right size to tap it).
I drilled out the passenger side hole larger after removing the factory barb and also used a 1/2" NPT tap.

Then I used 1/2" NPT to 5/8" hose barb fittings as they are basically the same size inside diameter, but you can also use 1/2" NPT to -10 AN fittings which is also basically the same size inside diameter I want to say.

If you wanted to run -12 it probably gets more complex and you need to go larger than 1/2" npt, but then the size of the drill bit and tap get ridiculous for 5/8 or 3/4 npt.

I think that the hole for the stock PCV being a perfect match for 1/2 NPT and a 5/8 barb or -10AN is a sign that it is the correct size. especially when you do it on both sides. the stock passenger side is a 90 degree 3/8" barb originally, so upgrading to dual 5/8" barbs or dual -10an is going to relieve more than double the stock amount of pressure... approaching triple.

I guess when welding on gte covers you could just go -12 since its drilling a hole and welding, but not sure on availability of -12 fittings and likely more $$

Halon

iTrader: (6)

Well I picked up a couple 15mm breather filters from ebay, straight from China so probably be here in a couple weeks haha. I got my spare covers sitting on my bench at work, and rounded up the right bit/tap. So hoping to get to this this week!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Awesome, I think you will like it. let us know how it goes. I want to say I used closer to 1" but I don't think the breather size makes a difference as long as the opening is big enough for a 5/8 hose barb.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

5/8" is roughly 15-16mm, so it's the right fit.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

There we go. Now just going to send em off to get powder coated!

Halon

iTrader: (6)

Should look nice with the spark plug cover Just not sure what color to powder coat the valve covers yet...