Sc400 is not charging properly!
So right before the winter, I had a random electrical issue that would lead the car to draw a lot of power from somewhere, but it would go away after i turn of the car and turn it back on. I figured it was a faulty alternator because my power steering pump was leaking aswell.
Well, I finally replaced my ps pump with a new high-pressure line and new 145amp alternator and battery (all at once) and I figured this solved my problem.... well it did, for about 35-40mins, and then the car would slowly lose electrical power again. I got a new charge cable, new battery ground cable, and the ps pump is not leaking anywhere. My alternator 150amp fuse is good
Before I parked it away, the battery use to completely drain after 2-3 days
I just want to enjoy my 1uz
ANY help would be greatly appreciated
Well, I finally replaced my ps pump with a new high-pressure line and new 145amp alternator and battery (all at once) and I figured this solved my problem.... well it did, for about 35-40mins, and then the car would slowly lose electrical power again. I got a new charge cable, new battery ground cable, and the ps pump is not leaking anywhere. My alternator 150amp fuse is good
Before I parked it away, the battery use to completely drain after 2-3 days
I just want to enjoy my 1uz

ANY help would be greatly appreciated
Alternator is bad. Had a similar problem with mine. Check the alternator and it would test fine but drive it and toast. The regulator likes to go on these. Get a replacement and all it a day.
Thats what I initally thought. So I bought a brand new alternator when I bought the ps pump. And had my old one rebuilt. That didn't work so I got my old one rebuilt, and also doesnt work.
Is there a module or something other than the 150amp fuse, that tells the alternator to charge or not?
Is there a module or something other than the 150amp fuse, that tells the alternator to charge or not?
Thats what I initally thought. So I bought a brand new alternator when I bought the ps pump. And had my old one rebuilt. That didn't work so I got my old one rebuilt, and also doesnt work.
Is there a module or something other than the 150amp fuse, that tells the alternator to charge or not?
Is there a module or something other than the 150amp fuse, that tells the alternator to charge or not?
you ever figure this out? this is EXACTLY what i’m experiencing. 30 mins of driving everything is great. and then the alternator starts overcharging, and the radio cuts out. i’ve had 3 brand new alternators all do it. so it’s not my alternator. wondering if it’s the wiring somewhere?
Haven’t dealt with this one myself, but I’ve done a fair amount of electrical tinkering. I have a couple questions:
- What does the battery voltage read at idle?
- What does the alternator voltage read at idle?
Turn on the car and let it run for ~2 min. Check with a multimeter—if battery voltage is 13-14V, seems like there’s something else in the electrical system that’s causing drain. If the battery only reads around 11 or 12V while the car is running, seems there’s definitely a wiring issue. If that’s the case, double check than your alternator is actually putting out ~13.5-14V. If it isn’t, it’s possibly just a bad replacement.
Assuming it is wiring: if the ground cable was just replaced, that’s a probably culprit to me. I’d check the entire cable to make sure everything is seated/mated properly. I’d also check for corrosion/loose connections on the other (2 if I’m right) wires on both ends as well.
If you notice a small difference between the alternator output and battery (say between 0.25 and 1V drop), that would lead me to think there’s probably a lot of resistance in the wire, likely from a wire being pinched or cut somewhere between the alternator and battery.
Let me know how it goes; good luck!
- Luke
- What does the battery voltage read at idle?
- What does the alternator voltage read at idle?
Turn on the car and let it run for ~2 min. Check with a multimeter—if battery voltage is 13-14V, seems like there’s something else in the electrical system that’s causing drain. If the battery only reads around 11 or 12V while the car is running, seems there’s definitely a wiring issue. If that’s the case, double check than your alternator is actually putting out ~13.5-14V. If it isn’t, it’s possibly just a bad replacement.
Assuming it is wiring: if the ground cable was just replaced, that’s a probably culprit to me. I’d check the entire cable to make sure everything is seated/mated properly. I’d also check for corrosion/loose connections on the other (2 if I’m right) wires on both ends as well.
If you notice a small difference between the alternator output and battery (say between 0.25 and 1V drop), that would lead me to think there’s probably a lot of resistance in the wire, likely from a wire being pinched or cut somewhere between the alternator and battery.
Let me know how it goes; good luck!
- Luke
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