Battery Relocate Question
 

Okay not sure if i hit my head this week, but i finished my battery relocate last week and ran the power wire to a shutoff switch in the trunk then from the switch to the starter, and ran a negative from the battery to a good ground in the trunk.

now my question is do i need to run a power wire from the starter to the fuse box? and if not how will the car get power ??

Also i hear all this talk about inline fuses in the power wire, is there any point since i have a shutoff switch??

also would you suggest a optima battery and what color top? if not what else and why?

Hey ! On the type of battery I would run a duralast platinum. After doing some digging "Johnson controls" which make duralast gold & platinum they also make optima battery. They also give you 3 year warranty and if you do decide to buy it autozone has printable coupons like spend $75 and get & $15 bucks off !
Just a quick tip to a fellow cl member ! Good luck bro

Moved to performance section.
How I do it is this way. take the old positive wire for the battery, connect it to the power for the fusebox and also to your new power cable running into trunk (if you put a flat connector on your new power cable you can bolt all 3 calbes together with a terminal and wingnut), then power wire goes to trunk in car and I have a relay on it for easy disconnecting in the trunk, and then from relay to the battery.
Ground is ran to a good ground in the trunk.

Basically you only need to run your power wire to where the original one was, leave the other wires in the same spot and put a positive terminal up front where the battery used to be.

Your way you will have to run both a starter wire and fuse box wire back up into the engine bay, which is sort of a waste. just use a really thick gauge to carry power to the bay for all of them and make the split in the bay.

its good to have a fuse/relay on such a long positive line if it shorts out in the middle of the car it can start a fire, so something more automatic than a simple manually operated cut off switch is needed cause how are you going to go flip the switch when you are inside the car and the wire starts sparking. a relay or fuse cuts it out instantly on the first spark.

Where would you suggest to mount the fuse and what size amp fuse? I don't want to cut my power wire again lol. My fuse box is in a new spot so I can't use the original power wire as its going to be to short.

I'm not to sure what you mean by 3 cables? There's only the wire from the starter to the fuse and the wire from the starter to the battery. As you can tell in the pic my fuse box is going on the side of the frame. By the from left tire kind of hard to see

I don't know specifically what size you will need, depends on gauge but I got one of those relays from the audio store I think it was 150 or 200 amp, and I can quick disconnect and connect by the push of a button, it was very easy to install. I have tripped it before by accident and its great cause it can just be reset.
200 amp regular fuses are expensive factor the cost of a few of those and the permanent relay makes sense, you never have to worry about being stranded when you blow a fuse in the middle of no where, remember its not just your audio system that you don't care if it goes out its the battery for the whole car.

I always mount them within 1-2 feet of the battery for safety reasons, usually on the top or side of the battery box.
http://images.sc1.netdna-cdn.com/P/C...in-image-1.jpg

I thought it was 3 including the one going to the trunk, basically its the 2 original wires that were bolted together and connected to the stock battery, you are just going to connect whatever wires were originally connected to the positive battery terminal to your new large gauge wire, and run one thick wire back to the trunk.
There should be a power wire going to the fusebox, or I am remembering wrong on that, I will go out and take a look later on and let you know.

yes there should be a power wire going to the fuse box. I ran my starter and fusebox wires into a 2-1 combiner

(2x 2-4g to 1x 1-0g) http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...VCREwgP2FlFYH8

in the engine compartment and then back to the trunk into the same 150a stinger circuit breaker, then to the battery.

is this hard to do? i would love to clean out my bay even though my car is just a daily i like to do random stuff like this. it doesn't seem hard, just take the original positive wire and cut it, then connect another wire to it and run that to the new location of the battery, am i right? it's that simple right?

ya it literally took me a couple hours, also because i drilled my rear bumper and mounted my cut off switch but i cant imagine it taking to long. i literally just ran it alongside the driver side of the car through all the pre existing gromets and hooked it straight up. fyi put the battery on the opposite side of the driver for better weight dist

thats the thing i forgot the original way my battery was setup due to the car being in pieces for so long. okay i guess ill either find a splitter and just run it off of my main power wire or create a new wire from the fuse box to the starter. either way ive got to run another wire. ill try and get a fuse, lve got so many things on the go at the moment.

Here is the one I bought! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-SHD20-Non-Fused-Power-Distribution-Block-HPM-Series-Multi-Gauge-New-/251449606968?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Distribution_Blocks&hash=item3a8b908338. Starter to one small and fuse box to one small and then back to the battery with the large output. Also just cut off the end of the ground coming off the motor and put a ring terminal on it and ground it to the engine compartment. Ill take pics of mine tomorrow!

Yeah its that simple, alkso you will need a ground wire that runs to a good ground in the trunk.
It is a good idea to put the battery on passenger side to offset weight of the driver, that is how mine is. the old amp location is a good place if you went to an aftermarket head unit, I ripped out the cd changer and amp and bolted in my battery box there. looks and works perfect.

you can cut off the original wire if you get one of those 2-1 blocks as shown which is a nice way, or if you don't want to cut at all the fusebox power cable has a lead with the hole on it, and the stock battery cable you have to remove part of the connector and then you can sort of end up with a piece that is a lead with a hole in it also, so you can just put the same lead with a hole on it on your long 1 gauge wire and bolt all 3 together to a floating positive terminal you can buy, so you have a place to jump your car still or get power from to check timing etc...

thats actually awesome where can i get this?? like a guitar shop??

Most audio places should have something like it. I bought mine on ebay as well as my circuit breaker.

Here is my setup!

Pic of the fuse box with a modified starter cable I had lying around:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...psfcff9e19.jpg

Combiner with the fuse box input on the right, empty spot for the starter on the left, and out towards the firewall to the battery:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...psb89eaa0e.jpg

Pic of the starter cable, and the ground cable from the engine that now gets grounded in the engine bay:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ps40a0ae2b.jpg

Here is the circuit breaker and battery mount in the trunk. I cut a hole and welded a nut to attach my ground lead off the battery. I will be running an odyssey battery, the big one is just a mock up:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y28...psf81c3009.jpg

that looks setup very well, the junction block does tidy it up alot, I think I will have to order one of those now as well, thanks for the info. I have the same circuit breaker that is the best thing you can add when doing this mod.