Could it be my Southbend clutch setup?
01-08-14, 03:27 AM
#31
i watched your video , a few things jump out at me
first , your cold start idle up i lasting way too long , normally a 2jz will idle up for about 1 minute to just under 2 minutes
i noticed a/f did what is was supposed to do then got richer then leaner then richer
why is your temp gauge taking nearly 3.5 minutes to begin to move , is it your cluster or do you possibly have a bad coolant temp sending unit or a stuck open thermostat as this will contribute to the startup issues as ecu doesnt know what to do with prolonged cold start conditions
also why when you rev car your speedometer moves with rpm if youre standing still
once it does register warmup your idle a/f is almost perfect , just my opinion based on the many aristo swaps ive done running still on the stock aristo ecu and watching the characteristics of a correctly running car
first , your cold start idle up i lasting way too long , normally a 2jz will idle up for about 1 minute to just under 2 minutes
i noticed a/f did what is was supposed to do then got richer then leaner then richer
why is your temp gauge taking nearly 3.5 minutes to begin to move , is it your cluster or do you possibly have a bad coolant temp sending unit or a stuck open thermostat as this will contribute to the startup issues as ecu doesnt know what to do with prolonged cold start conditions
also why when you rev car your speedometer moves with rpm if youre standing still
once it does register warmup your idle a/f is almost perfect , just my opinion based on the many aristo swaps ive done running still on the stock aristo ecu and watching the characteristics of a correctly running car
Last edited by lexforlife; 01-08-14 at 03:32 AM.
01-08-14, 08:16 AM
#34
yeah actually it seems ok forgot you are on 550's, do you have an safc in there or something?.
it only goes to 10 when you got on it before it warmed up so that is alright I thought it was going to 10 by itself. looks like it goes into closed loop just fine, its a little rich on revving but thats probably the 550's and it may get better over time or some fine tuning with an safc. I don't think anything is wrong after seeing that video.
a little popping on idle can be normal here and there especially with the richer mixtures. I run a .032 gap thats how the bkr come pre-gapped.
it only goes to 10 when you got on it before it warmed up so that is alright I thought it was going to 10 by itself. looks like it goes into closed loop just fine, its a little rich on revving but thats probably the 550's and it may get better over time or some fine tuning with an safc. I don't think anything is wrong after seeing that video.
a little popping on idle can be normal here and there especially with the richer mixtures. I run a .032 gap thats how the bkr come pre-gapped.
01-08-14, 10:22 AM
#37
I wouldn't worry about driving it at all at any speed, looks fine a little rich never hurt anyone but a little lean can cause alot of headache, and you are a little rich. with no fuel controller on there its actually not as rich as I would have thought. If it were a weekend car I would just turn the boost up and drive it like that. to be perfect or not waste as much gas then you need a piggyback to trim out a little fuel, but its really not that bad only seems off when you first step on it in closed loop it jumps down in the 11 range it should be more like the 13 range but it catches itself in a second or 2.
just keep an eye on it and make sure its not going leaner than 16 in cruise, but it really shouldn't at all and doesn't look like it will have any problems getting down the road.
can I ask why the map ecu 3? you already have a map based ecu so you can use something alot simpler to get to your goal.
just keep an eye on it and make sure its not going leaner than 16 in cruise, but it really shouldn't at all and doesn't look like it will have any problems getting down the road.
can I ask why the map ecu 3? you already have a map based ecu so you can use something alot simpler to get to your goal.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-08-14 at 10:26 AM.
01-08-14, 01:39 PM
#39
Pretty much, the safc works well in this case because all you need to tune is fuel.
the map ecu is a bit overkill but it would also work. with the map ecu you can tune the whole fuel map in detail which becomes more usefull for much larger injectors 660-1000cc and also for cars that don't have a map sensor already (I would use it on a usdm ecu for sure), but it can be more complicated to setup and tune than some simple afc trims.
With the gte ecu and 550's there is not much tuning needed to be done, basically you just want to pull a little fuel from the low settings so when you first tap on the gas each time it doesn't swing so rich. after a second or 2 the ecu will always compensate in closed loop, but that initial throttle change the ecu does not use an adjustment so it swings rich for a second, thats why it can go from 14 > 11 when you press the gas and if you hold it down it will go back to 14 again even though you haven't moved your foot, that is the delay in closed loop operation meant for throttle enrichment so you have to correct your open loop numbers just a bit with the safc. the remedy is to reduce the air flow signal some so that the ecu won't need to adjust as much so it will be close on the first tap. also the airflow signal will affect your AFR in boost or WOT as well. closed loop the ecu will home in on what it wants, and since its a turbo ecu it knows exactly the right numbers.
so on an safc you can quickly install it and take out percentages in certain ranges.
With the map ecu there is a whole large table to tune unless you have a good calibration for your size injectors and setup, and I tend to stay away from large tables to tune and keep it simple when possible.
the map ecu is a bit overkill but it would also work. with the map ecu you can tune the whole fuel map in detail which becomes more usefull for much larger injectors 660-1000cc and also for cars that don't have a map sensor already (I would use it on a usdm ecu for sure), but it can be more complicated to setup and tune than some simple afc trims.
With the gte ecu and 550's there is not much tuning needed to be done, basically you just want to pull a little fuel from the low settings so when you first tap on the gas each time it doesn't swing so rich. after a second or 2 the ecu will always compensate in closed loop, but that initial throttle change the ecu does not use an adjustment so it swings rich for a second, thats why it can go from 14 > 11 when you press the gas and if you hold it down it will go back to 14 again even though you haven't moved your foot, that is the delay in closed loop operation meant for throttle enrichment so you have to correct your open loop numbers just a bit with the safc. the remedy is to reduce the air flow signal some so that the ecu won't need to adjust as much so it will be close on the first tap. also the airflow signal will affect your AFR in boost or WOT as well. closed loop the ecu will home in on what it wants, and since its a turbo ecu it knows exactly the right numbers.
so on an safc you can quickly install it and take out percentages in certain ranges.
With the map ecu there is a whole large table to tune unless you have a good calibration for your size injectors and setup, and I tend to stay away from large tables to tune and keep it simple when possible.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-08-14 at 01:43 PM.
01-08-14, 01:46 PM
#40
Well..... I guess I don't need to go to a tuner and let a friend tune my map ecu.. or sell the map ecu, I don't know yet. This will be my daily driver for now.. until i fix my other car.
Thanks for all the input... appreciate everything about the infos on this thread.
Thanks for all the input... appreciate everything about the infos on this thread.
Last edited by JesLet; 01-08-14 at 03:28 PM.
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