Could it be my Southbend clutch setup?
01-02-14, 12:16 PM
#17
I watched your vid, and it seems like you are getting clutch chatter when letting the pedal out. It is tough to tell the exact timing, but I swear it seems to correlate with the clutch release. My old 6-puck would do that too unless you dumped the clutch, or were at idle. Try to shift the car, let out the clutch pedal, and THEN give it gas again. Do not try to slip the clutch WHILE giving the car gas. See if the shudder goes away. I highly suspect your clutch DISK, not the PP, though there is nothing wrong, so much as it is just the inherent behavior of an aggressive disk.
01-02-14, 12:28 PM
#18
I reinstalled the driveshaft back and drove it again.. seems to happen on lower speed and switching to higher gear.. does not happen to 1st to 3rd gear anymore.. maybe I shift early. Also seems like the clutch has broken in and it is not as touchy or sensitive as before.... I think everything will be fine, I just need to tune the car so I can drive/shift it confidently... ill keep the one piece driveshaft.
50 mph at 4 th gear with fuel ration of 15-16.. Too high?... I need tune soon
50 mph at 4 th gear with fuel ration of 15-16.. Too high?... I need tune soon
01-02-14, 01:56 PM
#19
if you are cruising hardly on the throttle 15-16 is spot on!! as soon as you give it some more throttle it should richen up to 14 or lower.
what are those aluminum spacers for between the frame and the cross member?
those look like they may change the angle between the back of the trans where the CV bolts and the rear differential pinion since the driveshaft comes out lower now.
too much deviation from the correct angle could cause vibrations and eventually pre-mature CV failure if the CV cannot cope with the angle, or maybe it can and it just needs to brake in some.
just a thought I know CV's do not like much angles at all. they like to be more of a straight shot.
you have a pic of the whole rear driveshaft from trans to diff?
what are those aluminum spacers for between the frame and the cross member?
those look like they may change the angle between the back of the trans where the CV bolts and the rear differential pinion since the driveshaft comes out lower now.
too much deviation from the correct angle could cause vibrations and eventually pre-mature CV failure if the CV cannot cope with the angle, or maybe it can and it just needs to brake in some.
just a thought I know CV's do not like much angles at all. they like to be more of a straight shot.
you have a pic of the whole rear driveshaft from trans to diff?
01-02-14, 02:05 PM
#20
They are steel spacers because of the AR5 oem mount... driveshaft installed is sitting straight, no angle at all. I think I am just anxious to break the engine and shifting early.. I made those spacers exaclty to have the driveshaft straight.
I need to get back on that afr's... kind of erratic sometimes..
I need to get back on that afr's... kind of erratic sometimes..
01-03-14, 10:26 AM
#21
Here's 50MPH cruising at 4th gear( after 15 mins of driving)... AFRs plays at 13.9 to 14.5 so this means running lean?
Cold start goes up to 12 and after 4 mins goes 10 flat. Then idling at a full stop around 12-13.. I hear some hiccups on the idle, like happens every minute not so sure
And oh the transmission and driveshaft is fine now... I am shifting early paranoid of breaking something on the first run. I did some spirited driving today and that turbo sounded like an airplane taking off.. I don't hear compressor surge anymore because I fixed my BOV. Love it.
Cold start goes up to 12 and after 4 mins goes 10 flat. Then idling at a full stop around 12-13.. I hear some hiccups on the idle, like happens every minute not so sure
And oh the transmission and driveshaft is fine now... I am shifting early paranoid of breaking something on the first run. I did some spirited driving today and that turbo sounded like an airplane taking off.. I don't hear compressor surge anymore because I fixed my BOV. Love it.
Last edited by JesLet; 01-03-14 at 10:32 AM. Reason: More info
01-05-14, 07:28 PM
#24
I had a similar issue. Ended up being my driveshaft. I too had a 1 piece driveshaft. I jacked the car up and ran it through the gears, drive shaft had a wobble to it. I'm also running the same exact clutch that you are. Switched back to a 2 piece drive shaft and car is perfect again.
01-07-14, 10:18 AM
#26
Here's 50MPH cruising at 4th gear( after 15 mins of driving)... AFRs plays at 13.9 to 14.5 so this means running lean?
Cold start goes up to 12 and after 4 mins goes 10 flat. Then idling at a full stop around 12-13.. I hear some hiccups on the idle, like happens every minute not so sure
Cold start goes up to 12 and after 4 mins goes 10 flat. Then idling at a full stop around 12-13.. I hear some hiccups on the idle, like happens every minute not so sure
13.9 to 14.5 is actually a touch rich for cruise (lower the number the richer).
cruise is 14.5-15.5 afr usually, not that far off though.
what is off though is cold start should be 12 or so, but it should go to 14.0 as soon as the o2 sensor kicks in, not 10.0 which sounds like a problem. that with you saying you get a pop every once in a while, you could have a leaky injector or you are getting a bad reading from the o2 sensor causing it to run richer instead of leaner, so you may want to poke around and toubleshoot.
full stop should be 14-15 range, so I suspect o2 sensor or you are picking up extra fuel somewhere that could be confusing the ecu.
01-07-14, 10:38 AM
#27
sounds like you have some underlying problem here, its close but not right.
13.9 to 14.5 is actually a touch rich for cruise (lower the number the richer).
cruise is 14.5-15.5 afr usually, not that far off though.
what is off though is cold start should be 12 or so, but it should go to 14.0 as soon as the o2 sensor kicks in, not 10.0 which sounds like a problem. that with you saying you get a pop every once in a while, you could have a leaky injector or you are getting a bad reading from the o2 sensor causing it to run richer instead of leaner, so you may want to poke around and toubleshoot.
full stop should be 14-15 range, so I suspect o2 sensor or you are picking up extra fuel somewhere that could be confusing the ecu.
13.9 to 14.5 is actually a touch rich for cruise (lower the number the richer).
cruise is 14.5-15.5 afr usually, not that far off though.
what is off though is cold start should be 12 or so, but it should go to 14.0 as soon as the o2 sensor kicks in, not 10.0 which sounds like a problem. that with you saying you get a pop every once in a while, you could have a leaky injector or you are getting a bad reading from the o2 sensor causing it to run richer instead of leaner, so you may want to poke around and toubleshoot.
full stop should be 14-15 range, so I suspect o2 sensor or you are picking up extra fuel somewhere that could be confusing the ecu.
Just a thought, I took off my fuel dampener so maybe that is why it has hiccups. All injectors have brand new OE o-rings and was so mad because they are pricey
Cold start is 12 or so.. then 10 after 5 mins then about 14 when warmed up.
01-07-14, 10:46 AM
#28
Pops at idle can also be based on plug gap, and coil health. Since I gapped my plugs down to crank the boost, I get an intermittent miss at idle. My old Aristo swap did the same thing with a smaller plug gap. It is a normal for a GTE to do this when you gap the plugs down.
01-07-14, 10:49 AM
#29
Pops at idle can also be based on plug gap, and coil health. Since I gapped my plugs down to crank the boost, I get an intermittent miss at idle. My old Aristo swap did the same thing with a smaller plug gap. It is a normal for a GTE to do this when you gap the plugs down.
I have a video of the AFR dowloading, will post in a bit.
EDIT: NGK 3330 and they recommend them to be gapped at .028-.030
Last edited by JesLet; 01-07-14 at 10:53 AM.