Building a fuel system for 800-900hp
12-24-13, 03:51 PM
#1
Building a fuel system for 800-900hp
I have been collecting misc parts for my single turbo/fuel system build. I do have questions and need suggestions on how to setup my system. I do have basic knowledge on how the sc300 fuel is set up from the factory. I'll start wth what parts I have so far.
powerhouse racing billet duel bosh044 fuel pump hanger
2x bosh 044 pumps with filters
Custom two relay wiring harness for system
Id2000 injectors
Weldon 2040 fuel pressure regulator
Pro efi flex fuel sensor
Goodridge -8an PTFE fuel feed lines and fittings
Goodridge -6an PTFE return line and fittings
Power house racing -8an fuel rail
Weldon 10 micron fuel filters
My currant OEM fuel lines and filter look rusty and brittle. I would rather not use them. I see the feed and return lines connect to the underside of the car under the tank. On the phr fuel pump hanger it has two -8AN fittings to have two separate feed lines run to both sides of the fuel rail. I want to have two feeds running under the car from hanger into their own fuel filters mad into the rail. I know I have to run a -6AN center return from rail into my regulator and into the flex fuel sensor and out from sensor back to the tank...
Now here is my question since my OEM fuel lines are rotting away is there any way I can completely remove them? If I do what do I do with the bottom ports on the tank under the car? And where is the best place for me to run my return line to? I do not want to weld the tank or any ot that. Please any one that can shed some light for me. Or suggest some options on what I can do?
powerhouse racing billet duel bosh044 fuel pump hanger
2x bosh 044 pumps with filters
Custom two relay wiring harness for system
Id2000 injectors
Weldon 2040 fuel pressure regulator
Pro efi flex fuel sensor
Goodridge -8an PTFE fuel feed lines and fittings
Goodridge -6an PTFE return line and fittings
Power house racing -8an fuel rail
Weldon 10 micron fuel filters
My currant OEM fuel lines and filter look rusty and brittle. I would rather not use them. I see the feed and return lines connect to the underside of the car under the tank. On the phr fuel pump hanger it has two -8AN fittings to have two separate feed lines run to both sides of the fuel rail. I want to have two feeds running under the car from hanger into their own fuel filters mad into the rail. I know I have to run a -6AN center return from rail into my regulator and into the flex fuel sensor and out from sensor back to the tank...
Now here is my question since my OEM fuel lines are rotting away is there any way I can completely remove them? If I do what do I do with the bottom ports on the tank under the car? And where is the best place for me to run my return line to? I do not want to weld the tank or any ot that. Please any one that can shed some light for me. Or suggest some options on what I can do?
12-24-13, 05:17 PM
#2
Take a look at my build thread and you will see how I did my setup. Same basic parts you have. Oem fuel lines get rid of them. Bottom of the tank, you can use an oil drain plug with the same thread size and some "seal all "to plug it all up or cut off the bungs that the bolt goes through from the oem line and weld it shut. Either way will work. Run the fuel lines along the car as the oem lines did and place the filter anywhere you think is best along with the flexfuel sensor. And your done.
Hope this helps and good luck!
Hope this helps and good luck!
12-24-13, 05:40 PM
#3
Take a look at my build thread and you will see how I did my setup. Same basic parts you have. Oem fuel lines get rid of them. Bottom of the tank, you can use an oil drain plug with the same thread size and some "seal all "to plug it all up or cut off the bungs that the bolt goes through from the oem line and weld it shut. Either way will work. Run the fuel lines along the car as the oem lines did and place the filter anywhere you think is best along with the flexfuel sensor. And your done.
Hope this helps and good luck!
Hope this helps and good luck!
12-25-13, 04:56 AM
#7
just cap off the the metal line inside the tank , nothings needed to be done under car as the feed and return lines run inside the the tank above the fuel itself , its not gravity fed ... as for return what i did was run a -6an return to orig spot ,i use a brass tee fitting splitting the -6an into 2 5/16 fuel hose clamped onto the orig feed going into underside of tank and the other 5/16 hose to the orig return port on underside .. if you remove each banjo fitting ( careful not to lose the 2 crush washers as they are needed to seal and line up banjo bolt) you can remove the plastic shielding which will reveal a barbed oem fitting that you can clamp the 5/16 fuel injection hose to , then inside the tank the oem return line already dumps into the rear of plastic slosh , the the oem metal feed line that terminates at top of tank , i use another 5/16 short fuel line clamped onto that metal line and use a pre bent alum line and clamp the other end of the same short 5/16 fuel injection hose from there and dump return fuel to front of slosh , so now i have fuel dumping at front and rear of slosh ..
theres virtually no pressure on return line but dual dumping gets fuel back to tank quicker and reduces some friction and also serves to make sure slosh is always full of fuel....
theres virtually no pressure on return line but dual dumping gets fuel back to tank quicker and reduces some friction and also serves to make sure slosh is always full of fuel....
Trending Topics
12-25-13, 05:03 AM
#8
also be careful and informed when using bosch 044 intank with e85 .. teelex himself had 1 of his 3 044 intank die and the second close to death after short use and if it wasnt for the protection offered from pro efi seeing the drop in fuel pressure , his motor would have been toast .. reid at sound performance also had his 044 get eaten up from outside in by e85 and has sinced changed to dual walbro 416 e85 pumps which flow alot more and teelex also did the switch and very easily made 1014 rwhp with 2 of these walbro's running
12-25-13, 06:35 AM
#9
just cap off the the metal line inside the tank , nothings needed to be done under car as the feed and return lines run inside the the tank above the fuel itself , its not gravity fed ... as for return what i did was run a -6an return to orig spot ,i use a brass tee fitting splitting the -6an into 2 5/16 fuel hose clamped onto the orig feed going into underside of tank and the other 5/16 hose to the orig return port on underside .. if you remove each banjo fitting ( careful not to lose the 2 crush washers as they are needed to seal and line up banjo bolt) you can remove the plastic shielding which will reveal a barbed oem fitting that you can clamp the 5/16 fuel injection hose to , then inside the tank the oem return line already dumps into the rear of plastic slosh , the the oem metal feed line that terminates at top of tank , i use another 5/16 short fuel line clamped onto that metal line and use a pre bent alum line and clamp the other end of the same short 5/16 fuel injection hose from there and dump return fuel to front of slosh , so now i have fuel dumping at front and rear of slosh ..
theres virtually no pressure on return line but dual dumping gets fuel back to tank quicker and reduces some friction and also serves to make sure slosh is always full of fuel....
theres virtually no pressure on return line but dual dumping gets fuel back to tank quicker and reduces some friction and also serves to make sure slosh is always full of fuel....
12-25-13, 08:18 AM
#11
sure can , later ill post it for you
no you cant , ask me how i know .. i tried with the correct fitting not realizing that the oem banjo bolt has a extra finger the plugs a tiny hole next to banjo bolt hole on underside of tank .. i kept wrapping the fitting with teflon tape to stop a tiny leak when i tried using the fitting only to realize it was coming from the tiny hole now left open when not using the banjo .. you could weld it shut , but that requires you to remove tank , completely wash out and leave open to get rid of fumes to prevent fire from welding .. i honestly dont see the point as what feeds to bottom of tank is a small barely 5/16 metal line that runs from fuel pump hanger , up to top of tank then down to this fitting , so to me that a restriction...
no you cant , ask me how i know .. i tried with the correct fitting not realizing that the oem banjo bolt has a extra finger the plugs a tiny hole next to banjo bolt hole on underside of tank .. i kept wrapping the fitting with teflon tape to stop a tiny leak when i tried using the fitting only to realize it was coming from the tiny hole now left open when not using the banjo .. you could weld it shut , but that requires you to remove tank , completely wash out and leave open to get rid of fumes to prevent fire from welding .. i honestly dont see the point as what feeds to bottom of tank is a small barely 5/16 metal line that runs from fuel pump hanger , up to top of tank then down to this fitting , so to me that a restriction...
12-25-13, 08:22 AM
#12
sure can , later ill post it for you
no you cant , ask me how i know .. i tried with the correct fitting not realizing that the oem banjo bolt has a extra finger the plugs a tiny hole next to banjo bolt hole on underside of tank .. i kept wrapping the fitting with teflon tape to stop a tiny leak when i tried using the fitting only to realize it was coming from the tiny hole now left open when not using the banjo .. you could weld it shut , but that requires you to remove tank , completely wash out and leave open to get rid of fumes to prevent fire from welding .. i honestly dont see the point as what feeds to bottom of tank is a small barely 5/16 metal line that runs from fuel pump hanger , up to top of tank then down to this fitting , so to me that a restriction...
no you cant , ask me how i know .. i tried with the correct fitting not realizing that the oem banjo bolt has a extra finger the plugs a tiny hole next to banjo bolt hole on underside of tank .. i kept wrapping the fitting with teflon tape to stop a tiny leak when i tried using the fitting only to realize it was coming from the tiny hole now left open when not using the banjo .. you could weld it shut , but that requires you to remove tank , completely wash out and leave open to get rid of fumes to prevent fire from welding .. i honestly dont see the point as what feeds to bottom of tank is a small barely 5/16 metal line that runs from fuel pump hanger , up to top of tank then down to this fitting , so to me that a restriction...
