one correction here , on a na dizzy type setup to sync timing you must lock the value in the aem at either 10 deg or 14 deg and you actually do adjust via dizzy directly , gte you adjust value up or down via aem itself ..

also i didnt hear anyone say anything about syncing tps as well ...key on eng not running you need to see tps value alittle more then 1% but less then 1.5% and pedal fully pressed should see no more then 96%

your map sensor seems to be reading incorrectly as well ..key on eng off should read around 100 kpa ..if map is offf , aem thinks you are in a different area of raw fuel map and will over fuel ,,,did you use the setup wizard for the map sensor

 

I did callibrate the tps and it seems to be working correctly. The video i posted there i did lock the timing at 10 degrees in the aem. Im leaning torwards the map. The only thing i did was to callibrate the map was in the setup wizzard select 3.5 bar map.

 

I have done it both ways, as long as you are close on the dizzy you can adjust in the software. you want to keep it as close to the original dizzy position if you are using the stock coil or the rotor will be out of phase. so its better to follow the toyota distributor insertion procedure, I do that and check the rotor is pointing to 1 when the motor is at TDC, and then I do the rest in the software so that I know it can fire the full range of timing values. IF you are on coil packs I think it becomes much less important. I generally never turn the dizzy to match the aem but one could do that.

the timing is only locked when you are on the set ignition timing screen with the number in the box and checked, otherwise it follows the map. You may need someone more familiar with the aem to help you out, but your problem is the map sensor.
If you have a 3.5 bar, you must go under fuel, advanced fuel, fuel trims, boost fuel correct and make your graph look exactly like this one with a straight line going through 0, otherwise you will just keep flooding your motor out.

YOU MUST DO THE MAP SENSOR WIZARD FIRST, SELECT AEM 3.5 BAR, AND THEN MANUALLY GO AND FIX THE GRAPH BELOW THE WIZARD IS NOT SMART ENOUGH TO DO IT FOR YOU (PRETTY DUMB WIZARD IF YOU ASK ME). IF YOU DO NOT DO BOTH THE WIZARD AND FIX THE GRAPH, THE 3.5 BAR WILL NOT READ RIGHT.

It is easiest to set it up by setting the -14.69 psi point to -100%, and then setting the last 35.31 psi to 240%.
Then you highlight all the cells, right click and select calculate, and it will draw a straight line through the 2 points.
If it looks like below and crosses 0 then you got it, if not then try again.

you can also see from -8 psi to -2 psi there is a 40% difference in fuel, so that should explain why you are running so rich if you didnt get how it works yet.
every PSI of pressure adds the percentage shown in this picture more or less, which is why its one of the most important things to setup properly.

 

Okay had some time to mess with the car today. Set the map table exactly how it was shown above. Started the car and there was a slight improvement on idle but its still missing terribly and blowing smoke out the exhaust. I pulled the spark plugs and the front two plugs are gas soaked and the rear plugs are black as can be.

 

I also tried pulling the #6 plug wire and car runs exactly the same. Im thinking the plug wire is shot or I already fouled out my second set of plugs

 

Well pulled the old plugs tonight and old plug wires... I ordered new wires that should be in tomorrow. Hopefully this fixes the miss problem.

 

I had the same problem with my sc whn I did the first start up. can ran fine the first time but hen it would start again it idled like crap and would pop bad when reved. goin from ur factory injectors to the 660cc will dump a lot of fuel. I had to change the duty cycle on the injectors and clean off the spark plugs with a wire brush cause they were fouled really bad. after I did that car would start up and idle fine.

 

I had actually swapped the injectors back to the factory 330's.

 

are the duty cycles set properly for the 330cc injectors?

 

I assume so? Im using the aem tune for the factory 2jzge with 330inj, only thing I altered was my 3.5map and boost fuel correction table. And of course synced all of the sensors that are needed.

BTW: I'm now a complete pro at taking the throttle body and intake manifold off this thing now. lol

 

do u have a tuner? mne came to my house and got to to ru perfect so I cold drive it without boost so I make sure everything was good before the tuning started.

yea its easy now its funnt to hear everyone say how hard it is to do the spark plugs lol. im like it takes me less tha 30 min lol

 

I have a tuner about an hour away from me. I finally got to changing the plugs. Tried to fire it up and am still getting a nasty miss. So far i've got a new cap and rotor, new plugs and wires, set up thr tps correctly, set up the wb correctly, set up the iat correctly, and lastly set up the map and boost fuel correction table right and still have the same problem. Im getting lost for ideas, but not losing motivation to figure this thing out.

 

the stock base map hardly drives the car at all so not sure what you are expecting.
even with the stock injectors I almost always have to mess with the fuel map with a wideband to get it drivable, along with setting the idle values. what is your wideband reading? what is your vacuum reading now at idle does it go to -8 psi or so? if everything is working and its rich you probably need to take fuel out of the map, but it needs to be setup and its not a plug and play thing as much as they say it is it takes some tuning to get it to drive around.
also make sure your map sensor is in a good spot.

 

Im not expecting much at all, im not wanting to drive the thing at all, just want it to start and idle correctly. I would hate to take it to the tuners only for it to have something wrong with it (not related to the tune) and have to pay them to fix it or have to trailer it right back home. Map sensor is plumbed directly into one of the vaccum nipples right off the throttle body.

 

do what ali said. mess with the fuel map at idle. try to make it 15 to 15.5 on the wideband