2jznosht

So after a toon of research, the cheapest route to making the SC respectable as a sport coupe, while doing it right and maintaining reliability is a 1jz. from researching, the higher revving 1jz will fit my dd needs as a get some nasty snow here and staying far from the power band will make things easier. Now I just have some questions.

It seems after the swap I'm either running 14 psi, or I can go higher and kill the stock twins thanks to the idea to use ceramic. From what I could find their aren't any direct replacements for the OEM twins. I found a turbo rebuild kit, asas well as single turbo kits if I choose to make more power later on. Problem is...both of those options would run me roughly another 1k. Said 1k would also put me into aristo 2jz territory price wise when adding the expense to the cost of the motor.

So my questions are

1. Why do people choose the 1jz a the costs seem fairly close if you ever do a turbo upgrade/stock twin rebuild.
2. Aside from the discontinued bolt on replacement twins, are there any other that will bolt up? Perhaps from another make, or model car?
3. Are those of you with 1jz swaps staying at stock power and of not what psi did your stock twins start to smoke?
4. My current ge only has about 15k on it...would going 1.5jz be a better option since I could save on not buying the full long block?

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (5)

Some of us got lucky and held on to the stock twins for over 25000 miles at well over 20psi with just a rich tune and aftermarket y pipe. My theory has been a multifactorial failure secondary to heat. Drop the EGTs and release the boost restricting y pipe and I don't think they're unreliable at all. Not from over spinning them anyway. I think it was heat that caused the shaft and wheel to serperate.

2jznosht

I see. I thought from what I've read they let go due to design regardless of tuning. Which aftermarket y pipe is suggested for this?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

if your current ge has 15k on it I would be more inclined to go na-t.
the JDM twins on a 1j or 2j you will likely have to get rid of at some point and buy a single turbo... or swap to usdm twins on the 2j, but unless you have your heart set on the twins, you can just get a good quality single for your na-t now and if you feel inclined throw a gte head on it or just run it the way it is and get a FFIM.
the 2jzgte swap sounds good though if you swap to usdm turbo's, don't think that is possible on the 1jz.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Na/t all day over a swap, especially if you have only 15k on it. That extra k that puts you in aristo territory will then also need to have the turbos addressed same as the 1j which leads to another k on top of the engine. They all need to have seals/pumps done because you have no idea of their maintenance schedule. What you'd spend on a swap, na/t would make more sense with your starting point.

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (5)

It is a design "flaw" i guess. The combination of twin different materials for the turbine and shaft is just less reliable when pushed, compared to a single metal.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

NA-T for sure with that kind of mileage. EMS, FFIM, and COP conversion and you are set

2jznosht

Thank you all. I will be back with more questions after some na-t research.

2jznosht

For 300 rwhp, I'm not seeing how the nat route would be more cost effective, compared to going nat and buying the ams

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Ams? You mean ems?

Because aristo ecu.

You have a great engine that will make more than 300whp on low boost with a small turbo. Your engine is supposedly in stellar shape. So you wanna buy an engine that's questionable, that you have to completely reseal, and make less power/torque?

Read Ali's na/t gte ecu thread.

Acquire ignition, 440s, map sensor, aristo ecu

Minor rewiring

Driftmotion turbo kit.

OR

Spend the same money you would on the turbo kit on a questionable engine

Then spend the money you'd get an ecu/map/iat/injectors with on gaskets/seals

Then do major rewiring.

Then have your turbos blow up and spend more ****ing money. And make less power/torque.

Guaranteed I could I accomplish what you're trying to do for probably $1100 with your current engine in your car.

Do more research

2jznosht

Good post^ now this might sound silly, but does anyone have pictures of the tt ecu mod steps? I suck with diagrams/electronics. As they are in Ali's thread.

Also does anyone know of a reasonably priced ffim set up for the ge's? All I am flinging is 700 ebay options

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

if you start off trying to go FFIM and need diagrams to do the ecu mod it is probably not going to go very well.
I would suggest skipping the FFIM until you get the ecu mod, the FFIM is not an easy mod and requires quite a bit to be moved around and often times fabricated like the throttle bracket, drilling tapping for vacuum lines and welding for the IACv flange, and there are not any writeups with pics for it. there are cheaper xs power ebay ones floating around but you have to get alot more parts. It is not a mod I would personally start out with and the factory intake will make you more power down low at those lower boost levels because of the ACIS system.

what parts of the tt ecu mod are you needing a visual on? its all pretty straight forward once you get in there.