98 SC300-Dayco Part 89055 Belt Tensioner
 

Anybody have installed the Dayco Part# 89055 Belt Tensioner . Please provide step by step how to replace it.
Thanks

Here is the link to Dayco Part:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ack_20130046-p

Attached is the part I am planning to replace.

I got the below steps on AllDataDIY. The steps are an excerpt from a timing belt service and repair procedure. I am not sure if I have to do all the steps.

REMOVAL STEPS:
1.REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
2.DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
3.REMOVE RADIATOR ASSEMBLY
4.REMOVE DRIVE BELT, FAN, FLUID COUPLING ASSEMBLY AND WATER PUMP PULLEY
5.REMOVE PS PUMP AND FRONT BRACKET
a.Remove the 3 bolts, plate washer and pump front bracket.
b.Disconnect the vane pump from the bracket.
6.REMOVE NO.3 TIMING BELT COVER Using a 5 mm hexagon wrench, remove the 4 bolts, oil filler cap, timing belt cover and gasket.
7.REMOVE NO.2 TIMING BELT COVER Using a 5 mm hexagon wrench, remove the 3 bolts, timing belt cover and gasket.
8.REMOVE DRIVE BELT TENSIONER Remove the 3 bolts and tensioner.

INSTALL STEPS:
1.INSTALL DRIVE BELT TENSIONER Install the tensioner with the 3 bolts.
Torque: 21 Nm (15 ft. lbs.)
NOTICE: Be careful not to drop the bolts inside the timing belt cover.
2.INSTALL NO.2 TIMING BELT COVER
a.Install the gasket on the timing belt cover.
b.Using a 5 mm hexagon wrench, install the timing belt cover with the 3 bolts.
Torque: 8.0 Nm (71 inch lbs.)
3.INSTALL NO.3 TIMING BELT COVER
a.Install the gasket on the timing belt cover.
b.Using a 5 mm hexagon wrench, install the timing belt cover with the 4 bolts.
Torque: 8.0 Nm (71 inch lbs.)
c.Install the oil filler cap.
4.INSTALL PS PUMP AND FRONT BRACKET
a.Temporarily install the vane pump to the bracket.
b.Install the plate washer and front bracket with the 3 bolts.
Torque:
58 Nm (43 ft. lbs.) for A
52 Nm (38 ft. lbs.) for B
5.INSTALL WATER PUMP PULLEY, FAN, FLUID COUP ING ASSEMBLY AND DRIVE BELT
6.INSTALL RADIATOR ASSEMBLY
7.FILL ENGINE WITH COOLANT
8.START ENGINE CHECK FOR LEAKS
9.INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER
10.ROAD TEST Check for abnormal noise, shock, slippage, correct shift points and smooth operation.
11.RECHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL

I don't think you need to drain the coolant or remove half that stuff except for maybe the fan clutch assembly for extra space, just whatever needs to come off to remove that plastic cover which hides the 3 bolts, then take the 3 bolts off and the tensioner can come out.

do not drop the 3 bolts for the tensioner into the lower cover, if you do you will have to fish it out with a magnet which is very difficult, if that doesn't get it then you will be doing a timing belt job sooner than expected.

When I did mine all I needed to move was the fan and shroud. It is super straight forward once you are looking at it under the hood

All you are changing is the pulley. Those instructions are for removing the entire tensioner.

If you're only changing the pulley, then these are the instructions.
1. Remove the belt
2. Remove the center pulley bolt.
3. Install new pulley
4. Tighten the new bolt
5. Install new belt

The dayco pulley is a generic part with similar, but not exact measurements for the SC. I ordered it for my 98 SC300 a couple of years ago, and once installed it grinded the tensioner arm cutting a groove into it. Also the stock bolt to hold the pulley has a tapered washer. The Dayco pulley is flat and not tapered at all, so it doesn't seat properly.

The dayco pulley damaged my tensioner, and I had to order a new tensioner from Lexus which took a week. Then when I got the new tensioner the mounting bolts snapped while installing, so I had to special order those and it took a few more days.

Based on what you have experienced and when I looked closer on the Dayco pulley, I decided to order the belt tensioner assembly.

Thank you for that headsup :thumbup: I too was looking to replace only the pulley, now I know.

you can also take the pulley off and have a shop press out the bearing and press in a new bearing if it is just the pulley that is the problem. If it is the tensioner spring itself that is too worn changing the pulley wont help with that.

Im not sure about the OP, mine tensions just fine, its just half of the surface on the pulley that meets the belt is rusty/bare, and has become a lower surface than the other half, so it causes the belt to side closer to the tensioner arm, and occasionally rub on it.

I ended up replacing the whole tensioner and the same time replaced the drive belt using Dayco parts. Thanks for all the advice.


Posted from ClubLexus.com App for Android

could just grind it down or sand it smooth again, but replacing for sure will be less effort.