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2JZ water pump question

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Old 09-26-13, 09:21 AM
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hoosier58
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Default 2JZ water pump question

I bought a replacement water pump online for my SC300. Unlike some I've seen advertized, this is just the pump itself, not the rear housing. It came with two gaskets and an O ring ---- the main gasket, and what looks like the outlet gasket for the back of the housing ---- I'm not certain where the O-ring goes. Watching a video of a water pump job on an IS 300, where they replaced the housing as well, and also removed the inlet pipe, it appeared that the inlet had an O-ring on the pump end, and an O-ring seal in the flange at the head. The O-ring in my kit doesn't look like it will be the right size for the inlet pipe at the pump.

I haven't removed the housing or inlet pipe at this point, and am pressed for time on this job. Is there any reason I need to remove everything, or am I safe to just put the pump on and call it good? One other 2JZ video I saw used a new pump and old housing. For some reason then removed the housing, then first assembled the new pump to it before installing the entire unit, but I can't see why you would have to do that.

Thanks

Edit: Like I said, pressed for time. I'm installing the new front pump on the housing still bolted to the engine. Is it 15 ft/lbs for everything, 10 mm and 12 mm?

Last edited by hoosier58; 09-26-13 at 10:59 AM.
Old 09-26-13, 04:56 PM
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hoosier58
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My question was answered. I did 9 ft/lbs on the 10mm bolts, guessing, then heard that should be fine, but that specs probably would have been 8 ft/lbs on a standard temper metric bolt with a 10mm head, and a 7 pitch (if I remember what my tech said). He said the thread is probably 6mm, which usually calls for 8 ft/lbs, but that I should have no problem. Soarer13 answered another, 'urgent' (at least it felt that way) thread I started to confirm.
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