OBEEWON

Years later. I have changed stuff, cursed, prayed and Im still in the same boat.

1JZGTE from a manual 92 Soarer.
Swapped into 92 OEM manual SC300
Crashed
Swapped into 92 SC400
Ran fine then a wire arched out on the frame and blew fuses. After repair the engine would not rev past 2k.
Swapped into 92 OEM 5spd.
Same problem

Tried:
New ECU with caps serviced
New Alternator
Two MAP sensors
brand new TPS
New 255lph fuel pump. (helped car run better)
New fuel filter (helped car run better)
Double checked wiring
pinched my girls bum
new spark plugs
checked coil packs
Checked MAP hose
MAP wiring
Coil Wiring
The entire harness has been out of the engine. Like Intake manifold apart and the wiring checked.

I am stumped.
My mechanic is stumped.
AAron @driftmotion is stumped.

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions please enlighten me.

Cleanshots

iTrader: (2)

did you do 12v mod with fuel pump replacement? um you got good grounds all the way around? try re pinching, or smacking.. sometimes a nice grab helps too..

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

what wire arced out? what fuses did it blow? have a wideband?

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

Check coolant temp wiring for proper connection and no pulled wires then check ,tps , both cam sensor and crank sensors plugs and refer to TSRM for proper ohm loads on sensor and on adjoining plugs. check coil packs for cracking and try removing coil wires independently with car running 1 coil at a time listen for change in sound. check igniter for correct voltage and ground.
LMK

Lastly make sure the timing star behind timing belt lower gear mounted to crank is securely attached to gear.
Sounds to me like it might be losing sync from crank trigger and cam position.
Do you have the 2 cam sensor wiring plugs reversed back on front cam and vice versa

OBEEWON

I tried the 12v mod and it didn't help so I switched it back to stock. I also used three different fuel ecu's.

It was a wire in the wheel well. Not sure what it was too. It was repaired. Just about all the fuses in the kick panel blew. But that was in the SC400. I now swapped it into my SC300 which was running and driving fine before we put the engine in it.

Great advice. I did all of this. Brand new TPS. Engine drops/runs rough when each of the coils are detached. Coil packs themselves look great. Tried a known working ignitor. Checked all grounds like four times.

Now this wiring reversal on the cam sensors is interesting. I didn't know that could be possible. But what makes me rule this out is nothing changed from when the engine was running to it not running wiring wise in that regard so unless someone is trolling me...?? I will check it just in case.


If anyone is a reputable 1J/2J tech I will pay you to come out here and fix this and cover food and lodging. The car is at my mechanics shop and he is at his wits end and so am I.

Thanks for all the responses.

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

Did you check the ohm load on the cam and crank triggers as well as the shielded wire and plugs.

Are both knock sensors plugged in, the oil pressure switch and oil level sensors plugged in???

sj408

iTrader: (6)

Its not generally a cut at 2k exactly but have you checked your map voltage??? In my experience theyll cut at like 3k when they are bad but that was on a 2j Not sure what you crossed up or arced but it is possible to fry a map fairly easy

OBEEWON

Now this is funny you say that I am wondering if there is shielding that I am missing and interferance is cutting out a signal. Everything is plugged in as far as I can see. The mechanic said he checked the ohm level on all the sensors and they are good even though I don't really trust that. Maybe they go out of spec with the engine on. I just ordered a new crank sensor and new coil pack connectors since mine are cracked and some exposed. I was wondering if the exposed connections could cause interference.

Ive tried two other ignitors with no change.

The engine revs over 2k with my friends Chaser ECU but it still runs super rough (undrivable) and CRAZY rich. My ecu will need new caps but there is definitely something else amiss.

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

The ECU can easily pick up cross talk (noise) and read those as improper position of crank/cam remember it needs both crank and cam signals to determine when to charge (negative signal) to igniter,coils and injectors!!!!
Make sure you check the coolant temp sensor as well as this little sensor will rain havoc on the ECU and will cause it to go into limp mode!!!

Cleanshots

iTrader: (2)

did u check timing to make sure its not off a tooth?

Cleanshots

iTrader: (2)

that arching ****ed something up.. it could have fried a sensor.. it could have done a mission things.. if it didnt fry the ecu it could have fried a sensor..

emoFTW

iTrader: (1)

My brother has the same issue.... He still can't figure his out! It's been about 2 years. His wideband is reading extremely rich at idle (9-10's) and as soon as any throttle is given, it gets dangerously lean, hence it not bring able to rev past 2k

sj408

iTrader: (6)

I mentioned the map sensor though Have you checked map voltage? Like i said i have seen similar issue with the car running super rich and wont rev past xx rpm. But it was at 3k where im at, maybe its 2k for yours? what is your map voltage? have you tested? it sounds very much like a map issue.

OBEEWON

Yes. My I did try 3 map sensors total. Still the same issue.
I am going to check the shielding on my wires and the coolant temp sensor which was suggested by my friend just yesterday. I did have an issue with that on my RB25. I just ordered a crank sensor and new connectors for my coil packs.

OBEEWON

It turned out to be my 1 and 3 injectors were stuck open.