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1993 lexus sc300 2jzge questions about boost ? Please help

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Old 05-09-13, 07:20 PM
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zzobeyyzz
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Post 1993 lexus sc300 2jzge questions about boost ? Please help

Sup guys, so I have been doing research and pretty much doing things to my sc300. Wheels and tires and hid and other little things. I've token the advice from other members and really appreciate it.

Here's what I need help and some goals and specs I'm looking to reach

Engine: 2jz-ge
Transmission: auto 4 speed
Horsepower goal: 300-350 whp
Fuel: pump 91 octane


My questions,
Is a turbonetics turbo good enough or Garrett any good ? What about precision turbos ?
I see Garrett turbos going for decent prices and turbonetics.
Should I upgrade my fuel pump to a walbro 255 ?
I'm building my turbo slowly sense there's no rush.
What size turbo should I get ? T4 with bigger housing ?

Please put your input anything that will help. Any other questions just ask il email instantly !

P.s I want to ask here because I don't like the na/t forums and clublexus members have been a lot of help, thanks once again.
Old 04-07-14, 02:07 PM
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travi19
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hey man im currently in the same situation right now . what route did you go on this and how much did you end up spending
Old 04-07-14, 11:58 PM
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rexst
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For those power goals, there are many turbos that can work for you. Some that come to mind are the TD-05 or 06, a Garrett GT2860 or even a GT30. First you really need to be honest with yourself and ask if you plan to stay in that power range only. The reason being that most people say they want this level of power and then keep wanting more. Power is really addictive. Unfortunately, as you keep bumping up the power, certain components in your car will start being inadequate. I went through this whole exercise so you can take my experience for what it is worth. Back in 1997 my original setup was with a Stage 2 Toyomoto kit. At that time, this kit was pretty much the only game in town. The kit came with a cast iron manifold, TD-06-20G turbo, OEM side-mounted intercooler from a Supra, HKS Headgasket, 2 additional 550cc injectors and an injector controller. The car ran "kinda" ok for that era and was much quicker than stock but had a few driveability quirks. I made 305 whp. did the 1/4 mile in 13.2 secs and I was pretty happy except for the occasional stumbles when you release the accelerator to quickly. In about 3 months time, I killed my first stock automatic tranny. First lesson I learned was that the stock A340E tranny cannot take 300 whp on a regular basis. Eventually I had my tranny built by Level10 (when they were still reliable ) and the tranny is still alive today. I know there are quite a few shortcuts and compromises you can take with piggyback systems like basic safc's or map ecu's etc. but you guys have it good today with all the available products and support around. If I were to do it again, I'd have gone with my current setup which puts out a modest 425 whp at 12 psi (compared to the monster engines that you find these days). Presently, I am using a standalone Haltech Platinum 2000, 1000cc I.D. injectors, GT3076R turbo, Synchronic Wategate and Diverter, Treadstone cast manifold, FMIC, Devil's Own water-meth injection,racing radiator, and all the monitoring support hardware. The car is a daily driver that looks and runs like one including cold morning starts, idling, idle up, etc. no stumbling, no hiccups. Other than a visible boost gauge, it looks all stock The vehicle can be boosted much higher but I don't need nor have any desire to do so. It is about as quick as my old nerves can take anyway. I guess what I'm saying is, if you can save up the money, try to do it right the first time. I know it's hard because you want to boost it already. I am just giving this suggestion because I was also like a lot of us here that started with piggyback units and band-aid fixes. In the end, I had this big storage area of parts that I ended up discarding because they did not fully solve my needs. I hope this helps. Oh and as a last piece of advice, don't forget to address the brakes. You'll need to slow down or stop sometime. Good luck with your project.


Shoot, my old age is showing and I failed to answer your most immediate questions:

Is a turbonetics turbo good enough or Garrett any good ? What about precision turbos ?
All these brands make a turbo that will suit your modest needs

I see Garrett turbos going for decent prices and turbonetics.
I am a staunch believer in the current Garrett turbos particularly their ball-bearing models because they spool really well but Turbonetics units have also proven their performance and reliability. I don't think you will go wrong with either. I am sure there are many other brands that I am not aware of so I can't speak for them

Should I upgrade my fuel pump to a walbro 255 ?
Yes, your stock pump may be able to get you close to the levels you want but I wouldn't trust it. If you are willing to spend a little more, go buy the OEM pump for the 1994 and up Supra Twin turbo. They will be quieter than the Walbro but the Walbro can certainly do the job

What size turbo should I get ? T4 with bigger housing ?
The units I mentioned above will allow you to meet your goals with the least amount of turbo lag. The GT30R, will allow you to reach more than 400 whp but you'll be boosting at higher levels. I am using a turbo with a T3 flange and don't feel the need to go T4 with the power I currently make. You need to do some homework and pay attention to turbo compressor maps so that you can find the right unit that will address your specific needs and driving style. Sometimes a big turbo is just a big turbo and not the right turbo for you

Don't forget to address your compression ratio. Our stock compression is a bit high for forced induction. There are many ways to do it. Some will say change to lower compression pistons which is probably the most ideal solution but is very costly both from a parts and labor perspective. A thicker headgasket (e.g 1.8-2mm) can solve most of the issues but bear in mind that purists will say it is a compromise and I agree with them even if I did go the headgasket and ARP stud route. For the power you are seeking, they will not be a big issue although they will be if you plan to make big horsepower. The nice thing about using a standalone computer is that you can program them infinitely to address these things provided you have enough fuel on tap via your injectors and pump. I installed a water-meth system to further increase the safety factor in order to protect my engine from detonation.

Yours will be a fun project but if you want it done right, it won't ever be cheap. If done right though, it will be really worth the expense. Good luck!

Last edited by rexst; 04-08-14 at 12:22 AM. Reason: added response
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