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big hp r154 must go??

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Old 05-03-13, 10:50 PM
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preston145
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Default big hp r154 must go??

Well guys I'm on my 5th clutch now. I can pull the r154 out in an hour. Its super easy. I'm currently at 641 rwhp and 603 tq through the r154. Trans is still great but I keep blowing tailshaft seals out at high speeds and pressure.plates keep popping. Marlin crawler has done a great job and keeping redline mt90 has definately helped keeping her staying strong. I'm ready to turn the power up again and I'm worried the trans and clutch is holding me back. I refuse to spend crazy money on a twin disk setups I could possibly sell her and go v160 or auto. For a weekend car with occasional drag passes would you go th350 th400 or v160? V160 is quite pricey at the moment though. Also frrsh paint just got done! Woop woop!








Old 05-03-13, 11:19 PM
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jwin
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maybe try a southbend pressure plate? v160 with oem flywheel and southbend clutch? 350z 6 speed?
Old 05-03-13, 11:27 PM
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preston145
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I was using all southbend when this happend. It was originally an act extreme pp that southbend rebuilt and modified and I also bought there six puck feramic disk. I just get worried about trans seals and getting fluid on tires at higher speeds.
Old 05-03-13, 11:33 PM
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jwin
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you could be blowing the tailshaft seal because your pressure relief thing on the top of the tranny isn't there or clogged or you are overfilling the tranny. It should be this little fitting with a cap that is loosely attach. That is the pressure vent to vent the tranny.
Old 05-04-13, 05:11 AM
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funny , ive never had a seal issue with my r154 ... im at almost the power level you are at as well .. honestly , unless you are buying a new v160 , you are gambling .. most of the recent used v160 sales on supraforums have resulted in people complaining about grinding and whinning issues on so called recent re builds .. i know i put a freshly rebuilt one into the red dragon i built for trufantic on here and she whines 1st and 2nd gear .. to me its annoying

i personally would put in a nice clutchmasters twin disk (im not a fan of the whole push/pull conversion thing) have a new seal placed in correctly and do all the marlin crawler upgrades if not done already and have a strong box with a solid clutch ..

once you get into the 6 speed arena you are now looking at new driveshaft , new diff , removing tunnel and installing mk4 6sp tunnel etc etc .. and you still need a good clutch for it .. i dont believe in the single clutch scnerio at over 700 rwhp even on the v160 as we had one fail on the dyno at 715rwhp ..
this what we had prior to new clutch , rps blue pp and hpf bronze disk ..pp was heat checked badly and disk started to break apart




heres what i used instead on the v160 .. rated at 1200 hp

Old 05-04-13, 06:32 AM
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Tough call. A CD009 from a 350Z/G35 would be a great choice and handle ANYTHING you throw at it longterm while being significantly cheaper than a V160

On the other hand, you still have room with the R154 plus a twindisk until you get into the 800rwhp mark. 700's should not be an issue internalwise with the marlin upgrades.

My rear seal started blowing when I broke into the 400wrhp mark so I have no idea how you even made it that far! As a simple suggestion, try a rear seal off a W58 instead of the R154. Yes it fits, just a bit tighter. Not sure if it will 'cure' anything at that power level but mine held up for almost 2 years now.
Old 05-04-13, 06:40 AM
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I HAVE THE SAME TAILSHAFT SEAL ISSUE WITH MINE... NOW ON MY 4TH SEAL IN JUST A MATTER OF MAYBE 8 MONTHS..

IM ONLY AT 422WHP AND THE SEAL JUST KEEPS LETTING GO.. iVE TRIED BOTH R154 AND W58 SEALS..

WHY EXACTLY DOES THESE KEEP FAILING?
Old 05-04-13, 06:40 AM
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Oh and as far as automatics go? As a street/strip car I would only consider 4L80.
Old 05-04-13, 07:14 AM
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haha welcome to the broken pressure plate and blown tailshaft seal club!! I went through that years ago.

I've broken 5-6 ACt pressure plate straps.

680wtq and 701whp on my setup , i haven't broke a driveshaft little over 9k miles.

The pressure plate issue is in your driving habit .

The tailshaft will blow the seal everytime you run the car hard and making decent power.

My sela started blowing out around 438whp. If you searh on here you will see that i have that issue for the longest time.

I wouldn't put a twin or triple disc on my R154, i doesnt make any sense imo.

I would rather my v160 with a proper single disc, maybe it's just me ..
Old 05-04-13, 07:41 AM
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Omar... Is there anything you can do to help prevent the tailshaft seal from going? extra lube? toyota sealant? anything... or just keep a stock of them and get used to changing them lol?
Old 05-04-13, 08:41 AM
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If you want to go auto there is nothing wrong with stock A340.


8.81 on the 1/4 mile with a built stock auto.

Get any A340. Rebuild it with Red Alto HD clutches (or other). Get an ATF billet 2nd gear sprag and billet forward piston.. A Transgo shift kit. A bigass cooler with fans on it. Probably cheapest solution to hold high HP and still DD it.

That's about $1500 in parts plus labor. Or you can order a built tranny already from ATF for $2800.

Edit: Oh and you're also going to need a built converter.

Last edited by Clean400; 05-04-13 at 08:53 AM.
Old 05-04-13, 10:11 AM
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how was the old seal removed , screw driver method or making 2 small holes and using 2 pick tools to reach behind and massage it out without touching the race or scoring the race .. why doesnt mine leak at all
Old 05-04-13, 10:52 AM
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ED I don't know why yours is not leaking -maybe you are not driving your car! j/k

It doesn't matter what you use to pull the seal out it will still leak , this is a known issue .

My friend bought his R154 brand new from toyota put 2 breathers on top of the trans but it still leaked , put a 5or 6 W58 seals and it still leaked.

I have a Soarer R154 driveshaft i am thinking about trying it in a couple weeks when i turn the boost to 30psi and see if it will leak. with that driveshaft .
Mine hasen't leaked yet so far ,
Old 05-04-13, 11:36 AM
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Thanks for yhe advice guys. Mine has leaked just a little as long as I have owned her. Thinking about a 1 piece driveshaft as well. Just want simething that'll hold that power and not eat a crazy amount of power. Can u reccomend a converter for a built stock auto?
Old 05-04-13, 10:20 PM
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Clean400
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Originally Posted by preston145
Thanks for yhe advice guys. Mine has leaked just a little as long as I have owned her. Thinking about a 1 piece driveshaft as well. Just want simething that'll hold that power and not eat a crazy amount of power. Can u reccomend a converter for a built stock auto?
Boostlogic

Precision Industries Dragon TC

Swift Racing

Pro Torque

ATF

IPT

Titan

Nice little blurb from the Titan site about torque converters

This Precision automatic transmission torque converter is designed to signficantly lower ET's and help launch higher boosting cars using the factory automatic transmission.

Please choose the torque converster stall speed that best suits your application or email us direct for assistance.

3200, 3800, 4400 rpm stalls available. Stock twin Supras running elevated boost would benefit most from a 3200 rpm converter. Those running slicks at elevated boost on the stock twins and possibly nitrous would most benefit from 3800rpm stall. Larger turbo cars or those running 21psi and nitrous on the stock twins with slicks could benefit from the 4400rpm converter.
I'm sure any of those companies could make a torque converter for your needs. You're going to need a billet torque converter for your power. Another nice article from Titan.

Last edited by Clean400; 05-04-13 at 10:32 PM.


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