97NaSupra

iTrader: (1)

Alright Im looking for a one stop shop to have all of my questions answered. I have a 97 na 5spd supra 80k on the odo, and bone stock besides a blitz nur spec-r catback.

Going AEM EMS V2, will this reqiure me to get a gm-map sensor ?, How about an AIT sensor? Are there base tunes out there to get me going if I will have stock injectors running like 7-8lbs?

Will the AEM allow me to ditch the MAF and factory o-2 sensors if I run a wideband?

Anymore tips on going turbo. Im looking forward to starting my build.

Thanks,
Nick

Heres a pic of my car......

4thHorsemn

Why don't you just drop a GTE motor in?

97NaSupra

iTrader: (1)

Envolves more work and gathering of parts. Also I am only wanting 300-350 reliable hp out of this car.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Are we in the wrong forums? LOL

Try www.supraforums.com.. J/K

I would PM Quick or Blk&Blu on here. Those are the guys to ask that I have 100% confidence in. They helped me on my build. I say these two due to them being on here more than others that have the same motor.

Nice MKIV. I had to settle for the sleeper WANNABE Supra.

97NaSupra

iTrader: (1)

I cant get my account activated in the supra forums or na-t forums, I guess they dont like me haha. Hey thanks for the contacts, your sleeper sc is far more impressive than my little ge 200ish hp lol. I will try to get in touch with those individuals, I appreciate it.

Thanks,
Nick

jwin

iTrader: (16)

Yes you can use a gm map sensor. Yes you will need to wire in a ait. Yea you can can ditch your maf.

Vwpride12

In the setup wizard you can adjust for what map sensor your running. I used an AEM 5 bar map and ait sensor. You do not need to use oxygen sensors. It does come with base tunes. You just have to find one that is closest to your set up. But you would still want to have the car tuned. I would probably just use that for start up purposes.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

No problem man. I failed to mention the other two guys who posted and actually answered your questions. My apologies fella's. Glad they answered your questions. Good luck with your MKIV, it sure is a beauty.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you can use any map sensor and ait on an aem ems v1 or v2, its a standalone so you get to choose your setup.
The aem ems does not normally use regular o2 sensors, it only uses a wideband so you can disconnect the stock o2's.
an aem ems v2 is a bit overkill for 7-8 psi though, you could use a 97 2jzgte ecu and have a factory tune at those boost levels.

97NaSupra

iTrader: (1)

Is it pretty easy to wire in a 2jzgte ecu? That just seems so complicated

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

If you were to install a standalone on your na supra, the wiring for the map sensor and iat is the same as the factory gte ecu. at that point the car would run fine, but you may find yourself wanting to upgrade the ignition system and injectors, as those are 2 big problems with the GE ecu. If you install new injectors and wire in coilpacks, you find that the wiring you have done on your standalone is almost identical to wiring in a 2jzgte ecu.

With the gte ecu you have to do those mods up front because there is no programming it into an ems, but once you do those things the benefit is there is no programming anything into an ems, as you have to pay someone to do that often several times and you may or may not like how it runs after.
The only downside is that with being 97 and wanting to keep odb2, you would have to use a tt maf or get a map ecu if you really want to get rid of it but the ecu itself will run great either way and work with odb2.
Also note standalones generally won't support odb2, as in they will not pass a plug in test, other than that it works fine.

If you are looking to run alot more boost and large injectors and stuff that needs a standalone down the road, by all means just go standalone now as then you can also upgrade in stages. If you only plan on running 8 psi then the standalone may be too much.

97NaSupra

iTrader: (1)

You have been more than helpfull! I do plan on upping the boost down the road. I decided to go ahead and swap to a TT headgastet and get that out of the way. Next year I only plan on running 7-8lbs because I dont really want to drop money into injectors and a fuel system quite yet. I probably wouldnt hurt to throw in a walbro 255 beings they are only like a hundred bucks. So my plan is.... Get Aem ems, swap to TT headgasket. Install map and iat sensors, new plugs, walbro 255, install wideband, clutch, delete the egr system, install turbo kit and dyno tune..... Does this sound like good route to have a reliable na-t car?

What are your thoughts on a turbo kit? Maybe peicing different kits together to save some money? I know the dave-H and boostlogic kits are very reputable but they are also quite expensive.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

sounds like you have a good plan, if you are running 7-8 lbs of boost I would consider holding off on changing the headgasket, the car will be faster and more fun with the stock one. you can always change it later when you turn up the boost thats what I did and you will have a lot of flexibility with the ems.

turbo kit wise most people piece a kit together these days to save some money or get the best setup as not one place has everything you may want. manifold and wastegate are 2 areas that are important, but even the knock off's manifolds floating around for the 2jzge hold up pretty well they just don't do a good job of clearing the stock distributor, but most go coils or get the shorter distributor cap as the manifolds that clear are alot more expensive so you almost may as well just pay to go coilpacks to solve the problem.

There are so many ways to build a 2jzge depending on your goals I could have a whole week long lecture on it.
thats why I was asking what your plans were, and what you want to do sounds similar to what I did I started out with the ems and a walboro, shortly after got 550cc injectors and had it at 11 psi on the stock headgasket for a year. then it got tore down for refresh with a TT headgasket, and have had a few different different setups since then.

97NaSupra

iTrader: (1)

Good deal. So leave the stock HG in place until I go for more boost and fuel. I would love to go coil on plug but Im not very knowledgable on wiring things haha. I can wire up a wideband and basic stuff like that but Im not sure I can tackle that project. I would hate to mess something up and my car be down for a long time. What manifold can clear the stock distributor? And will it be required to pull the motor in order to delete the egr and tap the fittings for the oil lines to and from the turbo? I just figured if I had to pull the engine to do that it wouldnt be a bad idea to throw the thicker HG in at the same time.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I totally understand, its not that much wiring but its tricky the first time you do it.

I wouldn't hesitate to run the stock headgasket for anything 12 psi or less with proper fuel mods and tune.
you can do 8 psi on the stock injectors and pump but a walboro or denso pump will be in your future sooner or later so its good insurance to just get it out of the way as soon as possible. definitely do it before upgrading injectors.

I think maybe the boostlogic one clears the distributor a little better, but its like 3-4 times the cost of the regular ones you see online. also the log style ones are a new type in the market, those are way out of the way of the distributor and mount the turbo alot lower, may limit the size of turbo and maybe custom downpipe... there are alot of options out there, but most run a top mount manifold. the logs are like side mount.

The regular knock off ones will clear if you use the 4 runner distributor cap and a 3" pipe, if you use a 4" pipe it will probably be pressing against the distributor leads (mine was). it may or may not irritate you to the point of going coil on plug, lol you sort of start to see why its not a bad idea to just do it all up front.

You don't need to pull a 2jz to do the egr or headgasket or the feed line, although your back may thank you in the long run.

For the return line, some people pull the pan to do it (which requires pulling the motor, or lifting it up some at the least). this makes sure that no shavings at all go in the pan, and you can also take it to get the return welded which is great, no chance of leaks in the future.

Because I didn't pull the motor at that time, I just drilled and tapped it on the car, used a bunch of grease on the bit and took my time as to not get any shavings in the pan, taking the bit out every few seconds wiping it down and dipping it in the grease and repeat. flushed the oil after and I have never had any issues after several years. Some say its risky but alot of people do it that way and I have done it several times, the soft aluminum is pretty easy to work with but also easy to strip. there are so many ways to do it really whatever you are most comfortable with.