TheAzn

iTrader: (2)

As of right now I'm undecided whether to go the NA-T route or swap in a 2JZGTE. My main concern is the reliability. I may go NA-T since money doesn't grow on trees for me yet, but a 2JZGTE isn't outside of my ball park.

I read many posts, threads, articles about complete stock 2JZGE motors be able to hold up to 400HP for sure and some have pushed that limit to near 1000HP.

Altogether, I simply want my SC up to 500hp. 300hp to 400hp is just as fine but I may crave more in the future. NA-T and full GTE swaps seem to accomplish that easily. I just want to know the reliability aspects as I will likely use the car as much as I do now, commuting through DC traffic occasionally and hopefully long trips.

I've heard from quite a few people about Mitsubishi Evos and the like not lasting very long, requiring expensive repairs and maintenances since they're turbocharged. And that's factory built.

To mention, I never owned a forced inducted car let alone the SC is my first RWD. However, I have driven many fast cars as I work on them almost on a weekly basis. For example: Carrera GT, 1050HP Carrera Twin Turbo, Lamborghinis, Ferraris, GT500 Super Snake, GTRs, M3s, lists goes on. I'm not completely dull to how massive (or little) power feels. Now i want it for myself without having to dig a bigger ditch.

sj408

iTrader: (6)

I daily drive my Na-t 60-100 miles with no issue, Biggest thing is ensuring your current engine is up to par.

Run a GTE ecu with an na-t setup and youll have plenty for daily driving, Yes you will have little quirks here and there like an intercooler coupler blowing or something but as far as overall reliability i couldnt be happier.

I only get like 14 mpg because i cannot keep my foot out of it, one time i did for a whole tank and got 20+ but its just too much fun haha.

In my opinion a GTE swap is way overhyped and a waste of money IF your engine is in good condition as is because most everyone who does a gte swap eventually converts everything over to single turbo which in the end makes it fairly identical to an Na-t running a GTE ecu and you just wasted all that extra money to have the gte swap and then pay even extra to convert it to single.

Basically for the same price everyone goes GTE i built my bottom end and went na-t. ALL new gear.

The evo guys have that problem because its a mitsu.... i would never buy one because of all those stories and i love my sc too much.

TheAzn

iTrader: (2)

Yea virtually the only difference between a GE and a GTE is the pistons, headgasket and oil squirters. I can buy good running GE's all day long. Then to just convert a twin turbo to a single, I figured why waste time and money on a GTE. As far as my current GE is, it's young and strong for it having 267000 miles. I heard some having 315k miles with force induction and running strong.

I don't think I'll be in boost that much though. Just want to know the power is there I can't afford to over abuse my car for now lol

marshall2j

Keep the GE. Just do a headgasket and you'll be fine

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Also do not skimp out on quality parts. Go with brand name to ensure the big parts do not fail on you. With the GTE ecu swap, from my understanding, you should have a great sleeper/daily driver with practically factory reliability. I think AliSc3 has a write up on the GTE ecu and coil conversion and I think a new one also just popped up. You can find all the info you need as far as procedures go. Good idea though getting peoples opinions as everyone usually like opinions from experience. Let us know what you do and try catalog it : )

sj408

iTrader: (6)

While i agree with you on the majority of parts there is alot of in-expensive alternatives that help beginners start small then expand on the kit. Like xspower or driftmotions kits.

Also with your mileage i personally wouldnt feel comfortable boosting without a bit of an overhaul. Top end gaskets + Head gasket + timing belt and water pump would be done first if it were me

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

I suppose I should have been more specific and said to mainly stray from ebay. I personally find driftmotion to be pretty darn good for the money. I agree with your point on the overhaul, good thing to bring up.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

600 rwhp here been boosted since oct 2007 127k on the clock and driven daily .. it all comes down to quality of parts in the inital build , a good ecu ( the gte route is okay , although as a builder of these cars , total timing control to me is everything) and a competent tuner goes along way to setting things up for reliability , safe power and fuel economy ...

TheAzn

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the inputs!

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashtray

Also do not skimp out on quality parts. Go with brand name to ensure the big parts do not fail on you. With the GTE ecu swap, from my understanding, you should have a great sleeper/daily driver with practically factory reliability. I think AliSc3 has a write up on the GTE ecu and coil conversion and I think a new one also just popped up. You can find all the info you need as far as procedures go. Good idea though getting peoples opinions as everyone usually like opinions from experience. Let us know what you do and try catalog it : )

I definitely plan on not skimping on quality parts. I keep reading about "go to ebay for" this and that.... Unless it's a Garrett, Precision, etc turbo, I'm quesy on buying some brand of turbo that could be cheap. I understand ebay kits or the like would be a good start but I would much prefer to go with quality.

Quote:

Originally Posted by marshall2j

Keep the GE. Just do a headgasket and you'll be fine

Quote:

Originally Posted by sj408

While i agree with you on the majority of parts there is alot of in-expensive alternatives that help beginners start small then expand on the kit. Like xspower or driftmotions kits.

Also with your mileage i personally wouldnt feel comfortable boosting without a bit of an overhaul. Top end gaskets + Head gasket + timing belt and water pump would be done first if it were me

I just got the timing belt, timing hydraulic tensioner, timing tensioner pulley, crank and cam seals and the water pump done. Those were my main concerns when I bought the car last September. The next time I have some money, I'll be taking it back to the shop to have the spark plugs and wires, maybe cap as well, replaced.

With the headgasket, I can just use the same HG right or would it be better if I got a GTE HG? If the HG gets done, I would likely get the ARP studs installed as well. And depending on how much, get the head cleaned up, port, polish. I may go find a GE head and get that done prior that way all I have to do is just swap heads.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lexforlife

600 rwhp here been boosted since oct 2007 127k on the clock and driven daily .. it all comes down to quality of parts in the inital build , a good ecu ( the gte route is okay , although as a builder of these cars , total timing control to me is everything) and a competent tuner goes along way to setting things up for reliability , safe power and fuel economy ...

600RWHP? I want lol I have thought about possibly running multiple maps, or just two. That way I can select a fuel saving map to use daily without burning gas and be able to switch to another map for superior (but safe) power. My boss bought a F350 something turbo diesel with 6 selectable maps (Economy, Towing, Hauling, Hi Idle, Sport, ALL OUT SPORT modes... oh it's a huge *** difference in ALL OUT SPORT mode, that's what I call it... **** moves)

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCSIN

u can get 350 from a 1jz vvti stock is a hard swap but worth it in the end

I think I read somewhere that anything VVTi is an interference motor. Which is my other concern of the motors just incase the timing belt gave out for any reason.

I kinda like and grown into the name 2JZ, anyways..... Cuz of this:

jwin

iTrader: (16)

^^^^ Go with TT HG and arp headstuds. I plan to daily my SC300 once i get everything done. Fuel economy is base on your right foot. if you stay out of boost you should get decent gas mileage. I don't think you necessary need another tune just for fuel economy. I think it would be a pain to carry around a laptop just to change maps while driving.

TheAzn

iTrader: (2)

There is a little switch **** under the dash on the truck. The maps were all written and ready, just turn the switch **** to it and it changes. Its pretty cool since I never seen one like that.

marshall2j

Don't go with your stock HG. If you run boost, you want lower compression. with the TT HG I think it brings it down to 9.1:1, there are others that bring it down to 8.5:1. Stock TT Supras have 8.5:1 CR

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

267000 miles if you tighten UP the top you must tighten UP the bottom or you will have oil leaking through the cylinder.
Get a low miles engine and go from there. by tighten up i mean changing the HG.

Buy some decent parts from the get go and not worry about later.

GL

jschru

iTrader: (1)

AEM offers something like this. i believe its called the AEM power switch or something of the like. But i'm pretty sure you must run the AEM EMS to use it, which may not be in your budget.

if you have the time and money I'd run through the seals on the motor (front/rear main, cam seals), completely rebuild the head(decked head, new valve stem seals, cam seals, valves and cams cleaned up but left stock), run a tt hg, arp headstuds, new valve cover seals and youre good to go. the main problem with these motors is seals going bad over time. with all new seals and a refreshed head, tt hg, headstuds your ge will be good for 500+ all day.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

^^^^^has nothing of this sort and any solid competent tuner who TRULY cares for there customers pocket and car would never leave a customer with 2 tunes on a single map . one of the best features of using a standalone like a simple aem is the ability to tune in boostcut .. your tuner tunes you to say 18 psi on pump gas , your vac line to wastegate comes off and turbo tried to boost to its limit , aem senses via map sensor with a sec or so and cuts ign and fuel at 20 psi long before any damage can occur .. thats a good amount of protection that has saved my engine a few times .. the only other protection I PERSONALLY crave is fuel pressure drop during wot to cut boost and envoke a soft rev cut