Adjustable Fuel Regulator Install W/ pictures – 1JZGTE
01-09-13, 11:09 AM
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Adjustable Fuel Regulator Install W/ pictures – 1JZGTE
Adjustable Fuel Regulator Install W/ pictures – 1JZGTE
(still need to get pictures of the rest of the setup)
There are many ways to install a FPR, you can run new rubber fuel lines, SS lines, -an lines, metal hardlines.. etc. This way isn’t technically the “best” method, but it is just as reliable as long as you install it correctly (I have a mild setup, under 600whp). I would recommend –an lines if you’d rather have the look and spend a little more money (btw they are still rubber fuel lines with a SS woven shroud). On this, I only wanted to use black anodized fittings, so I had to source all the pieces through three different companies that use –an fittings.
Here are the parts I used:
1x - Russell -6an male to 12mm x 1.25 fitting LINK (rus-640803)
1x – Fragola Performance -6an mal to 3/8th barbed hose end LINK (484106-BL)
1x – Earls 90deg Female -6an to -6an female LINK (AT935106ERL)
6x – 3/8th hose clamps
3ft - 3/8ths fuel INJECTION line (I cannot stress how important it is you get High Pressure fuel INJECTION line - holds 100psi instead of fuel line which can only hold 50psi)
Tools/Misc:
17mm Wrench
-AN wrenches (or similar box wrench)
Basic Wrench set
Zipties
Misc bolts to mount AFPR
Paper Towels
Adjustable AFPR
Final Assembly of -AN Fittings
INSTALL!
1) First, remove the original FPR at the front end of the stock fuel rail with a 17mm box wrench. Disconnect the fuel/vacuum lines running to it, and pinch off so fuel doesn’t come pouring out.
2) Thread the Russell fitting into place. These do NOT require Teflon/thread sealer (note the gasket). If you were to use Teflon tape, be sure you know how to apply because it CAN get into your fuel supply!
Please see this video on how to properly apply Teflon
3) Put the 90deg Earl fitting on, and then the Fragola barbed fitting.
4) Now find a good place to mount the AFPR. Some people put it on the firewall, others by the diagnostic port or by the original FPR. Choose which ever you like best, and mount securely. Measure, and cut the fuel hose to the correct length, as to not get any pinches in the line, or have it too saggy. Slide your 3/8ths hose onto the SIDE barbed fitting on the AFRP., and put two clamps on the end barbed -an fitting. After this, put two more clamps on the end of the hose where the AFPR is mounted.
5) Now, measure and cut your return line. This goes onto your lower barbed fitting on the AFRP. Be sure to put two clamps on for safety and piece of mind!
TEST IT FOR LEAKS
6) Before starting, turn the key to the on position to prime fuel (may or may not work depending on if you have done the 12v mod to your fuel ecu).
DO NOT ADJUST AFPR WITH VACUUM LINE ATTACHED
Be sure to get the fuel pressure to about 40-45psi before connecting the top vacuum line to the smaller vacuum nipple on the AFPR. Once set, hook up vacuum that went to the stock FPR. Your target fuel pressure is around 35-39psi WITH vacuum.
The TSRM ('95 2jz-gte) calls for the following:
33 - 40 psi with no vacuum
24 - 31 psi with vacuum
You can follow the TSRM or not, these are readings for a stock 2jzgte/1jzgte that I have come across on multiple forums and just averaged out the numbers. There are many different opinions, but generally if you are over 400whp you will need a little ATLEAST 35psi with vacuum. If you have a big single turbo, large injectors and fuel pump you will probably need to increase the pressure. Though please consult your local shop.
7) Start your car, and have fun!
Wrapping up:
Personally, this is just a TEMPORARY fix to get my AFPR installed, until I get a top-feed rail and an Aeromotive AFPR.
Be sure to check your clamps frequently for leaks after the first week or so of driving.
I do not take responsibility in your work, should this cause you a fire or anything like that. Its what I am running, and figured the forum could use a break down
For another guide, Follow DoomLight’s build:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/7412345-post197.html
(still need to get pictures of the rest of the setup)
There are many ways to install a FPR, you can run new rubber fuel lines, SS lines, -an lines, metal hardlines.. etc. This way isn’t technically the “best” method, but it is just as reliable as long as you install it correctly (I have a mild setup, under 600whp). I would recommend –an lines if you’d rather have the look and spend a little more money (btw they are still rubber fuel lines with a SS woven shroud). On this, I only wanted to use black anodized fittings, so I had to source all the pieces through three different companies that use –an fittings.
Here are the parts I used:
1x - Russell -6an male to 12mm x 1.25 fitting LINK (rus-640803)
1x – Fragola Performance -6an mal to 3/8th barbed hose end LINK (484106-BL)
1x – Earls 90deg Female -6an to -6an female LINK (AT935106ERL)
6x – 3/8th hose clamps
3ft - 3/8ths fuel INJECTION line (I cannot stress how important it is you get High Pressure fuel INJECTION line - holds 100psi instead of fuel line which can only hold 50psi)
Tools/Misc:
17mm Wrench
-AN wrenches (or similar box wrench)
Basic Wrench set
Zipties
Misc bolts to mount AFPR
Paper Towels
Adjustable AFPR
Final Assembly of -AN Fittings
INSTALL!
1) First, remove the original FPR at the front end of the stock fuel rail with a 17mm box wrench. Disconnect the fuel/vacuum lines running to it, and pinch off so fuel doesn’t come pouring out.
2) Thread the Russell fitting into place. These do NOT require Teflon/thread sealer (note the gasket). If you were to use Teflon tape, be sure you know how to apply because it CAN get into your fuel supply!
Please see this video on how to properly apply Teflon
3) Put the 90deg Earl fitting on, and then the Fragola barbed fitting.
4) Now find a good place to mount the AFPR. Some people put it on the firewall, others by the diagnostic port or by the original FPR. Choose which ever you like best, and mount securely. Measure, and cut the fuel hose to the correct length, as to not get any pinches in the line, or have it too saggy. Slide your 3/8ths hose onto the SIDE barbed fitting on the AFRP., and put two clamps on the end barbed -an fitting. After this, put two more clamps on the end of the hose where the AFPR is mounted.
5) Now, measure and cut your return line. This goes onto your lower barbed fitting on the AFRP. Be sure to put two clamps on for safety and piece of mind!
TEST IT FOR LEAKS
6) Before starting, turn the key to the on position to prime fuel (may or may not work depending on if you have done the 12v mod to your fuel ecu).
DO NOT ADJUST AFPR WITH VACUUM LINE ATTACHED
Be sure to get the fuel pressure to about 40-45psi before connecting the top vacuum line to the smaller vacuum nipple on the AFPR. Once set, hook up vacuum that went to the stock FPR. Your target fuel pressure is around 35-39psi WITH vacuum.
The TSRM ('95 2jz-gte) calls for the following:
33 - 40 psi with no vacuum
24 - 31 psi with vacuum
You can follow the TSRM or not, these are readings for a stock 2jzgte/1jzgte that I have come across on multiple forums and just averaged out the numbers. There are many different opinions, but generally if you are over 400whp you will need a little ATLEAST 35psi with vacuum. If you have a big single turbo, large injectors and fuel pump you will probably need to increase the pressure. Though please consult your local shop.
7) Start your car, and have fun!
Wrapping up:
Personally, this is just a TEMPORARY fix to get my AFPR installed, until I get a top-feed rail and an Aeromotive AFPR.
Be sure to check your clamps frequently for leaks after the first week or so of driving.
I do not take responsibility in your work, should this cause you a fire or anything like that. Its what I am running, and figured the forum could use a break down
For another guide, Follow DoomLight’s build:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/7412345-post197.html
Last edited by bryan767; 01-10-13 at 08:05 AM.
though, I hear ebay AFPR's arent trustworthy
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