Anyone Adjusted The Valves Before?
So on all cold starts, I can hear the valves tapping for a second; when the oil light goes off. My friend told me the valves just needs to be adjusted. And I read on here somewhere the oil light staying on for a second or so is normal. Once the oil gets the flowing, car drives perfect, no bad sounds, even when engine is still cold. I let the engine warm up for a minute since it has 260k miles. Runs like 150k!
Anyone adjusted the valves before and/ or know the procedures? Although I never adjusted them, the old motor in my Corolla used various size shims. You just had to push the valve down and put a thicker shim in. Wondering if it's the same for the 2JZ, still a Toyota
Perhaps someone can give me advices and tips on doing the timing belt as well. I'm sure the timing belt was changed at 90k mile service... that's all... and there's 260k miles. I think it's time the belt be replaced before I get stranded on a highway.
Anyone adjusted the valves before and/ or know the procedures? Although I never adjusted them, the old motor in my Corolla used various size shims. You just had to push the valve down and put a thicker shim in. Wondering if it's the same for the 2JZ, still a Toyota

Perhaps someone can give me advices and tips on doing the timing belt as well. I'm sure the timing belt was changed at 90k mile service... that's all... and there's 260k miles. I think it's time the belt be replaced before I get stranded on a highway.
oil light staying or coming on during startup and even for a few seconds is NOT normal . is it the red warning light or yellow as one indicates level and the other pressure ..you might have a bad level sensor
Yep, adjusting the valves on the 2J involves shimming as well. Cams will have to be removed to access the shims. While you're in there you should replace the valve seals under the buckets.
Cams dont have to come out but its a pain otherwise. You'll need to measure the clearances with the cams in, and if only two or three are out of spec you can leave the cams in, press down on one of the lifters with a flat head while somebody else uses a tiny little flathead to get the shim out of said lifter
Replacing shims with the cam in is difficult as Aerostar said. Pressing down on the bucket requires a decent amount of pressure and leaves little space to remove the shim. You risk slipping then gouging the bucket, bucket bore and even the cam itself. I'd much rather spend the extra half hour or so removing the cam, it will be much less of a headache.
The red genie lamp. It only comes on the first second the engine starts, never comes on at anytime the engine is running.
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