Brian Crower 1jz 264 camshaft results.
10-08-12, 02:56 PM
#61
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But now that 1 J cams have become more common place the cost versus reward is now in favor of just doing Aftermarket cams.
Also a set of 264's with the right supporting mods is lethal, while still retaining most of the Lexus idling characteristics.
Once you go 272's in a 1 J your vacuum goes to **** the idle gets lumpy and the iacv will struggle to keep up so a standalone is highly recommend or you will probably hate life with you baby turned Biatch. ROFL
Last edited by blk&blu*j; 10-08-12 at 03:00 PM. Reason: spelling
10-09-12, 01:37 AM
#62
This can and has been done the original idea was take a set of TT USDM 2J cams machine the front of the cam and presto a 2j approx 258 cam in a 1 J with a little better lift and duration for reasonable money.
But now that 1 J cams have become more common place the cost versus reward is now in favor of just doing Aftermarket cams.
Also a set of 264's with the right supporting mods is lethal, while still retaining most of the Lexus idling characteristics.
Once you go 272's in a 1 J your vacuum goes to **** the idle gets lumpy and the iacv will struggle to keep up so a standalone is highly recommend or you will probably hate life with you baby turned Biatch. ROFL
But now that 1 J cams have become more common place the cost versus reward is now in favor of just doing Aftermarket cams.
Also a set of 264's with the right supporting mods is lethal, while still retaining most of the Lexus idling characteristics.
Once you go 272's in a 1 J your vacuum goes to **** the idle gets lumpy and the iacv will struggle to keep up so a standalone is highly recommend or you will probably hate life with you baby turned Biatch. ROFL
Indeed!!
10-18-12, 12:00 AM
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The red and pink lines relate to a 1JZ soarer with manual trans, a T60-1 turbo(16psi), with .6? exhaust housing. Tuning was only done with a SAFC 2. Results/power figures would likely be better with proper programmable engine management. The boost response graphs show virtually identical spool/ response.
The Blue lines(hand drawn) relate to the car first mentioned at the top of the thread. A 1jz soarer with auto trans, HKS f-con iS piggyback ECU, 18psi, stock turbos. I didn't graph below 4000rpm, as the (worn) trans was struggling to cope with the power and so getting clean runs was impossible.
The two cars' actual figures perhaps shouldn't be directly compared with each other, as they were on two different dynos, though both the same brand.
One car gains more power overall , through a broader rev range, and doesn't tail off like the stock cams. The other car appears to be held back by either the exhaust housing or too small a diameter down pipe(owner speculation).
The Blue lines(hand drawn) relate to the car first mentioned at the top of the thread. A 1jz soarer with auto trans, HKS f-con iS piggyback ECU, 18psi, stock turbos. I didn't graph below 4000rpm, as the (worn) trans was struggling to cope with the power and so getting clean runs was impossible.
The two cars' actual figures perhaps shouldn't be directly compared with each other, as they were on two different dynos, though both the same brand.
One car gains more power overall , through a broader rev range, and doesn't tail off like the stock cams. The other car appears to be held back by either the exhaust housing or too small a diameter down pipe(owner speculation).
11-14-12, 10:07 AM
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Wow. What a plethora of great info!! I'm in the research phase and have decided on a 1J for my 240. Had a shimming issue with my SR and yeah.. its toast. The shimless bucket mod seems like a no brainer. Also the 264s seem to be the way to go as well. I'm just looking for modest power. I think 450-500 will be sufficient for my needs. Thanks for the info!
08-15-13, 07:05 PM
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This thread has gotten very interesting. I just dropped mine in and reused the stock shims. I was within specs on both the OEM and the BC 264 specs on both sides, intake and exhaust. I didnt ever drive the car before the tune was done. I could only imagine how the 1JZ would be without the stage 2 cams. I thought the stage 3 would be too aggressive for me and my HP goal at the time.
08-15-13, 08:17 PM
#69
i just dropped my cams in. no worries.
later i decided to check since everyone was guilting me into thinking i might have excessive clearance. and sure enough it was .15mm on the intake perfect all the way up from 1 to 6 and .25mm on the exhaust. no reshimming required.
and yes you do feel the power in the top end with them installed. i too didnt want to get the 272's because of the springs and retainers stuff and reshimming. 272s are too aggressive for my own power goals. thats why i skipped them.
later i decided to check since everyone was guilting me into thinking i might have excessive clearance. and sure enough it was .15mm on the intake perfect all the way up from 1 to 6 and .25mm on the exhaust. no reshimming required.
and yes you do feel the power in the top end with them installed. i too didnt want to get the 272's because of the springs and retainers stuff and reshimming. 272s are too aggressive for my own power goals. thats why i skipped them.
08-16-13, 09:24 AM
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264's on a 1J will shift the powerband to the right but it will keep the power past 7800 with the right combination of turbo,DP and rear housing size depending if its a gear car or an auto!!
it is not uncommon to be able to drop in 264's(BC) but still highly recommended to at least check the clearance from bucket to lobe.
Remember all 1 and 2 J stock heads have numerous size buckets in them and will sometimes play havoc if to tight in tolerance, which will scar the cam journal,cause a spring problem, scrub the shim off the bucket and cause valve float or in the worst case drop a valve due to to much pressure on the retainer/locks.
Dont be nervous.LOL
it is not uncommon to be able to drop in 264's(BC) but still highly recommended to at least check the clearance from bucket to lobe.
Remember all 1 and 2 J stock heads have numerous size buckets in them and will sometimes play havoc if to tight in tolerance, which will scar the cam journal,cause a spring problem, scrub the shim off the bucket and cause valve float or in the worst case drop a valve due to to much pressure on the retainer/locks.
Dont be nervous.LOL
09-23-13, 08:46 PM
#73
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This probably an old thread, but where are the 1jz's that aren't running 264 cams . Whats the power look like for those? Anybody out there running it like this ? Don't be shy.
09-30-13, 01:27 AM
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the Dyno sheet i posted above(post number 63) includes both cars dyno results prior to the 264 camshaft installation. I was specifically trying to test "before and after".
Last edited by Blakenz; 09-30-13 at 01:28 AM. Reason: more info.