KennethP

In my daily ebay search for parts I came across this intake manifold. Don't want to post the link to the auction to avoid violating any forum policy. The price isn't bad but it's not as beefy looking as other FFIM offerings. What do you guys think of it?

GotRiceYo

iTrader: (2)

Im pretty sure thats the club NA-T manifold.. Looks thin but should do the job.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

It doesn't look bad. looks like a RMR D plenum to me and their 5.0 throttle body flange.

It looks like its a few inches longer than the one I made and I used a q45 throttle body, but other than that if you can get the throttle body on and get the pipe to bend down then it should work. I made mine a bit shorter so I have alot of space for my I/C pipe, but I also barely clear the top power steering line, so it may be better that its a few inches longer.

really won't know till someone tries it. I hope it works out cause people will stop asking me to make them hopefully, and no i don't make them anymore.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

LOL there was alot more to my FFIM install than I anticipated and I purchased the whole kit from FSMoto. I miss all the free space the stock manifold allowed on that side! Working now around that big plenum is such a pain.

kevint2

It looks nice and it is the Club NA-T manifold,i was going to buy one but i just made one..The only bad thing about this one is that it dont have any fittings to hookup any hoses and its hard to drill and tap a hole in thin aluminum..

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Lol, I know there is so much work involved, but it is nice when its all done.
I can pretty much get to my oil filter from one angle only with one hand, and a few fingers on the filter with my other hand from another crazy angle, which just barely allows me to get my oil change done.
I thought about relocating it, but I like it in the stock position, cause I know its less that can go wrong and my 2jz like to have oil circulating through it at all times.
I just won't risk a line coming off or a cooler messing up my oil pressure.. as unlikely as it may be

those D plenums are actually surprisingly thick, I was able to get more than enough threads in there and my fittings can't even think about moving around. Don't always tap the back angled part, as some welders use a smaller gauge metal on the back part because its easier to work with. a visual check will tell you if its thinner than the D plenum or not.
The best place to tap is underneath towards the middle or the same place on the top side like I have. underneath is the neatest obviously, but I mostly care about performance and being able to reach them easily. underneath is hard to reach when you choose a bolt on FFIM. If you get the runners cut and welded, you can have much better clearance to the shock tower, but you may run into your power steering pump or coolant hose issues depending on length.

I used a drill press to drill out the pilot holes, so the manifold had no chance of moving.
Then carefully oil up your tap and start it in the pilot hole as straight as possible.
Don't go all the way in, some fittings have different tapers.
go in increments and clean and test with the fitting you want.
after the first one you will get a feel for the required depth.

On less important pieces I don't even tap by hand, I put the tap on a cordless drill and just go very slowly, then put it in reverse and let it slowly back out. if you do it right it saves alot of time, but be careful not to go too far when in forward (use a cordless drill the corded ones keep going when you let off the trigger), and be carefull not to force it out in reverse or you can pull out the threads.

Dan@FSM

That intake will produce a lot of turbulence at the runners cause of it not having the proper radius. I like the fact that there's Chinese knockoff's of our intake lol. Rest assured it's not the same quality!