Bleeding new clutch mc? Special procedure?
#1
Bleeding new clutch mc? Special procedure?
Hey all,
Just finishing up an 1uz/r154 and have been having an issue with the clutch mc? Am i supposed to bench bleed the mc before installing, because ive already installed it and have bled it 2 times from empty, and still have an issue when the pedal sticking.Both times the same scenario happens, ignition off, the pedal doesnt stick whatsoever, but a little soft. Then i start the car and get ready to drive, and the pedal will start sticking.
First time was manually pumping the pedal for bleeding, while the second time, the system was vacuumed dry, fill reservoir, and vacuum fluid through the system.
Charley
Just finishing up an 1uz/r154 and have been having an issue with the clutch mc? Am i supposed to bench bleed the mc before installing, because ive already installed it and have bled it 2 times from empty, and still have an issue when the pedal sticking.Both times the same scenario happens, ignition off, the pedal doesnt stick whatsoever, but a little soft. Then i start the car and get ready to drive, and the pedal will start sticking.
First time was manually pumping the pedal for bleeding, while the second time, the system was vacuumed dry, fill reservoir, and vacuum fluid through the system.
Charley
#3
i think so, the only adjustment is on the end of the rod closest to the pedal, correct? Im not sure I understand, because it doesnt seem to be much to adjust?
Tomorrow I'm going to order the top bolt that holds the clutch bracket to the vehicle, because it seems that there is some flexing while pressing the pedal, maybe cocking the MC piston, allowing air to pass through.
Thanks
Charley
Tomorrow I'm going to order the top bolt that holds the clutch bracket to the vehicle, because it seems that there is some flexing while pressing the pedal, maybe cocking the MC piston, allowing air to pass through.
Thanks
Charley
#5
I have the pedal adjusted about as far as it will go already, so that isnt the issue.
Ordered the bolt p/n 90110-08A22 and i hope that this fixes the issue, because i do not want to pull that tranny again in the garage and school starts this thursday
Charley
Ordered the bolt p/n 90110-08A22 and i hope that this fixes the issue, because i do not want to pull that tranny again in the garage and school starts this thursday
Charley
#7
Ive tried these methods:
1) Pump 3x, hold down, while brother loosens up the bleeder, then close the bleeder, and i repeat all over
2) slowly press down 1x and hold, while brother loosens up the bleeder, closes, then i repeat
For method 1 and 2, we bleed the fluid back into the clutch MC since the bleed line is about 4' and is long enough to reach back to the MC
3) vacuum all the fluid out, close bleeder, fill MC with brake fluid, vacuum fluid through the bleeder(while keeping an eye on reservoir), and vacuum a few more times.
I can try the gravity bleed into a tub of fluid next, or somebody else suggested a pump bleed through the MC.
Btw, the r154 is a lot of custom stuff, so im using a tilton TOB(throw out bearing). No external slave cylinder, although the tilton TOB is pretty much a slave cylinder.
Charley
1) Pump 3x, hold down, while brother loosens up the bleeder, then close the bleeder, and i repeat all over
2) slowly press down 1x and hold, while brother loosens up the bleeder, closes, then i repeat
For method 1 and 2, we bleed the fluid back into the clutch MC since the bleed line is about 4' and is long enough to reach back to the MC
3) vacuum all the fluid out, close bleeder, fill MC with brake fluid, vacuum fluid through the bleeder(while keeping an eye on reservoir), and vacuum a few more times.
I can try the gravity bleed into a tub of fluid next, or somebody else suggested a pump bleed through the MC.
Btw, the r154 is a lot of custom stuff, so im using a tilton TOB(throw out bearing). No external slave cylinder, although the tilton TOB is pretty much a slave cylinder.
Charley
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#8
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this may sound stupid, but is the clutch pedal assembled correctly? there is a lot of spring action that's supposed to help it come back up, but of course the hydraulic pressure has to be there as well...
also, FYI, a pressure bleeder ALWAYS works better than a vacuum bleeder (aka mityvac). i have bled stuff for HOURS with a mityvac to no avail, then i borrow my buddy's pressure bleeder and it totally dominates.
does that tilton hydro TOB had a bleeder port on it? i would bleed that through that bellhousing access hole (if that's possible)
also, FYI, a pressure bleeder ALWAYS works better than a vacuum bleeder (aka mityvac). i have bled stuff for HOURS with a mityvac to no avail, then i borrow my buddy's pressure bleeder and it totally dominates.
does that tilton hydro TOB had a bleeder port on it? i would bleed that through that bellhousing access hole (if that's possible)
Last edited by cartmill; 08-22-12 at 08:43 AM.
#11
I always bleed brake master cylinders but never clutch master cylinders. I'm not saying it not a bad idea but probably won't fix the problem. Can you see the arm on the slave cylinder moving at all?
#12
I could be totally off here, I don't know much about tilton. R154 uses a pull type clutch right? That tilton setup kind of looks like a ford ranger slave that is built into the bearing. So will it even work if everything is blead properly?
#13
There is no external slave, because the tilton is pretty much a slave. It is an internal tob in an auto 1uz bellhousing, which has no inspection cover plates.
Also, im not using an r154 pressure plate. I am using the setup from quantum auto, which uses a push type pressure plate, so it should work.
Today i installed the top bolt for the clutch pedal bracket, it stiffened up the bracket. Then my brother and i bled the system again using the 2 people method. With the engine off, the spring action of the pedal is alot better, but once i start the car, pedal action is same as before, progressively sticking more. Im so aggravated
Charley
Also, im not using an r154 pressure plate. I am using the setup from quantum auto, which uses a push type pressure plate, so it should work.
Today i installed the top bolt for the clutch pedal bracket, it stiffened up the bracket. Then my brother and i bled the system again using the 2 people method. With the engine off, the spring action of the pedal is alot better, but once i start the car, pedal action is same as before, progressively sticking more. Im so aggravated
Charley