This is all I really need to do the gte wiring merge correct?
08-19-12, 06:23 PM
#1
This is all I really need to do the gte wiring merge correct?
So I got this section of harness from the junk yard from a 92 sc300 and the harness was already chopped in about the middle of the engine compartment so my question is since I have the aristo and this section I should be good to go correct? I think the body plugs are the hard part 
08-19-12, 06:50 PM
#3
There's a lot more work involved getting the whole shebang together, but as far as getting the extension part, yeah. Here's what has helped me in the past.
I took the stock harness out of the sc and laid it out on the floor flat so it stretched out all the way after removing all the wrap material.
next I took several measurements. Alt plug to each body/ecu plug, then the plugs by the battery to each of the body/ecu plugs, then injector #1 to each of the body/ecu plugs. I did this to make sure I'd have several reference points for length so I would not over/under extend.
After that, I completely removed all of the ENGINE function from the stock harness. There will be a couple that will tie into the engine function such as the oil/water temp and tach to the cluster, a/c, alternator and such, when you find those consult your cars diagrams to figure out what they are, leave a decent length from the body plug where it goes or depin from the ecu and label them as so.
From there, I went through and completely disassembled the gte harness. I located the places that were mentioned in the spot above that give the cluster info and left them in with the engine function, but completely removed all the BODY functions other than these.
once there, I had two half harnesses. At that point I went ahead and referenced the number 1 injector and positioned it into the spot that matched my measurements I had taken from the stock harness. went ahead and connected the cluster stuff, extended where needed, things worked out.
there's lots of little details that aren't really here, this is just a general outline. You really should have diagrams for your car and an aristo pinout and a fair understanding of how the two systems work before attempting this. whatever you do, TAKE YOUR TIME AND DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING BEFORE CLIPPING, DEPINNING, OR GETTING RID OF STUFF!
I hope this helps.
I took the stock harness out of the sc and laid it out on the floor flat so it stretched out all the way after removing all the wrap material.
next I took several measurements. Alt plug to each body/ecu plug, then the plugs by the battery to each of the body/ecu plugs, then injector #1 to each of the body/ecu plugs. I did this to make sure I'd have several reference points for length so I would not over/under extend.
After that, I completely removed all of the ENGINE function from the stock harness. There will be a couple that will tie into the engine function such as the oil/water temp and tach to the cluster, a/c, alternator and such, when you find those consult your cars diagrams to figure out what they are, leave a decent length from the body plug where it goes or depin from the ecu and label them as so.
From there, I went through and completely disassembled the gte harness. I located the places that were mentioned in the spot above that give the cluster info and left them in with the engine function, but completely removed all the BODY functions other than these.
once there, I had two half harnesses. At that point I went ahead and referenced the number 1 injector and positioned it into the spot that matched my measurements I had taken from the stock harness. went ahead and connected the cluster stuff, extended where needed, things worked out.
there's lots of little details that aren't really here, this is just a general outline. You really should have diagrams for your car and an aristo pinout and a fair understanding of how the two systems work before attempting this. whatever you do, TAKE YOUR TIME AND DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING BEFORE CLIPPING, DEPINNING, OR GETTING RID OF STUFF!
I hope this helps.
08-19-12, 06:53 PM
#4
And whatever you do, ignore colors. Things are different between years chassis sometimes, that's why I say use diagrams and pinouts. If you're not familiar with the diagrams in the factory service manual, there's a place in the front of the manual that actually will show you how to use the manual. Pretty cool, that's honestly how I figured out how to do all this crap. Very helpful
08-19-12, 07:06 PM
#5
No you are missing the fuse box plugs, power steering solenoid plug, rear sump oil level.
You don't touch any of the body plugs because they already fit into the ecu and harness, it's everything else that takes a lot of work - well if you want a clean harness that is.
That seems like a really complicated way to do it.
You don't touch any of the body plugs because they already fit into the ecu and harness, it's everything else that takes a lot of work - well if you want a clean harness that is.
There's a lot more work involved getting the whole shebang together, but as far as getting the extension part, yeah. Here's what has helped me in the past.
I took the stock harness out of the sc and laid it out on the floor flat so it stretched out all the way after removing all the wrap material.
next I took several measurements. Alt plug to each body/ecu plug, then the plugs by the battery to each of the body/ecu plugs, then injector #1 to each of the body/ecu plugs. I did this to make sure I'd have several reference points for length so I would not over/under extend.
After that, I completely removed all of the ENGINE function from the stock harness. There will be a couple that will tie into the engine function such as the oil/water temp and tach to the cluster, a/c, alternator and such, when you find those consult your cars diagrams to figure out what they are, leave a decent length from the body plug where it goes or depin from the ecu and label them as so.
From there, I went through and completely disassembled the gte harness. I located the places that were mentioned in the spot above that give the cluster info and left them in with the engine function, but completely removed all the BODY functions other than these.
once there, I had two half harnesses. At that point I went ahead and referenced the number 1 injector and positioned it into the spot that matched my measurements I had taken from the stock harness. went ahead and connected the cluster stuff, extended where needed, things worked out.
there's lots of little details that aren't really here, this is just a general outline. You really should have diagrams for your car and an aristo pinout and a fair understanding of how the two systems work before attempting this. whatever you do, TAKE YOUR TIME AND DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING BEFORE CLIPPING, DEPINNING, OR GETTING RID OF STUFF!
I hope this helps.
I took the stock harness out of the sc and laid it out on the floor flat so it stretched out all the way after removing all the wrap material.
next I took several measurements. Alt plug to each body/ecu plug, then the plugs by the battery to each of the body/ecu plugs, then injector #1 to each of the body/ecu plugs. I did this to make sure I'd have several reference points for length so I would not over/under extend.
After that, I completely removed all of the ENGINE function from the stock harness. There will be a couple that will tie into the engine function such as the oil/water temp and tach to the cluster, a/c, alternator and such, when you find those consult your cars diagrams to figure out what they are, leave a decent length from the body plug where it goes or depin from the ecu and label them as so.
From there, I went through and completely disassembled the gte harness. I located the places that were mentioned in the spot above that give the cluster info and left them in with the engine function, but completely removed all the BODY functions other than these.
once there, I had two half harnesses. At that point I went ahead and referenced the number 1 injector and positioned it into the spot that matched my measurements I had taken from the stock harness. went ahead and connected the cluster stuff, extended where needed, things worked out.
there's lots of little details that aren't really here, this is just a general outline. You really should have diagrams for your car and an aristo pinout and a fair understanding of how the two systems work before attempting this. whatever you do, TAKE YOUR TIME AND DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING BEFORE CLIPPING, DEPINNING, OR GETTING RID OF STUFF!
I hope this helps.
Last edited by account2x; 08-19-12 at 07:11 PM.
08-19-12, 07:20 PM
#6
it really isn't. I did it that way to make sure I left all the stuff the original chassis needed in it's original place when I wasn't really sure what to do. It also gave me a better understanding of how the two work. Times have changed for me, but for someone that doesn't know where to extend and what does what, it forces you to go through and decipher what you have and what you need. You can't really go through and tell people this goes here and that goes there, they'll still eff it up and then have no understanding of why or where they went wrong.
08-19-12, 07:33 PM
#7
I mean that method is really complicated and you won't get a clean harness when you are done.
That's a WIP harness. You can see I left the whole Aristo harness in tact (minus shielding) and then combined it on the fly with the GE portion.
That's a WIP harness. You can see I left the whole Aristo harness in tact (minus shielding) and then combined it on the fly with the GE portion.
Last edited by account2x; 08-19-12 at 07:56 PM.
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08-19-12, 08:12 PM
#8
So I basically should ditch this idea? I have a friend who is a wiring guru and he will be doing this for me in exchange I have to get his evo running so he has not had time to go through the diagrams yet so I have to figure out the exact route I need to take.
08-19-12, 08:41 PM
#9
Professionally unless someone has a bunch of free time on there hands I wouldn't recommend anyone do there harness unless it's attempting to extend a harness for a same chassis swap.
08-19-12, 09:05 PM
#10
Has your friend ever made the harness before? IMO making the harness is the second most difficult then you can do after tuning the engine, and even if you know how to do it's still time consuming. Your friend might found out he has bitten off more than he can chew.
Professionally unless someone has a bunch of free time on there hands I wouldn't recommend anyone do there harness unless it's attempting to extend a harness for a same chassis swap.
Professionally unless someone has a bunch of free time on there hands I wouldn't recommend anyone do there harness unless it's attempting to extend a harness for a same chassis swap.
He has never done this one before but has wired up all kinds of other swaps for other cars so he has lots of 12v wiring exp however is there something I should know about this swap that could hold us back?
08-20-12, 05:06 AM
#12
from the picture you're doing nearly the exact same thing as I described, just leaving extra crap in until youve merged them then removing the stuff? eems to me like there's more crap in the way to work around. Doing a harness the way I described can come out just fine, but it's something to not be rushed through.
OP, if you're friend has some wiring savy, then he should be fine. People maker this stuff out to be more difficult than it is. I'm a retard and my work comes out fine. Don't let people discourage you from making your project happening. If you have an aristo harness and the stock harness from your car, that's all thats needed. The finished product will come out as good or as ghetto as the effort that is put into it.
OP, if you're friend has some wiring savy, then he should be fine. People maker this stuff out to be more difficult than it is. I'm a retard and my work comes out fine. Don't let people discourage you from making your project happening. If you have an aristo harness and the stock harness from your car, that's all thats needed. The finished product will come out as good or as ghetto as the effort that is put into it.
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