shaka778

So changed my PCv valve today ( i know it's not related) but been having this squeaking/rattling coming from the engine bay for a few days now and thought I would record and pick your collective minds. So from the searching I done I don't think it's rod knock so I'm guessing the belts? Also the ac doesnt work so I'm guessing it's not that. The other video I found on the forums was more like a hum. Oh and it doesn't go up or down when I rev the engine and does get quieter as the car warms up. Thanks again guys

shaka778

Well my drive belt broke on the way home from work. So I guess that was the squealing. Pulled over and left it there. New question is what could have caused this. Sorry if these are noob questions. I been searching and reading all night and corrected my last post as I originally said timing belt.

justin1642

iTrader: (7)

If your belt hasn't been changed over a long period of time then it could of been cracked and it was just time for it to break or if it didn't have cracks it just had dry rot. Always check your belt when under the hood it's just part of preventative maintanence.

shaka778

Thanks justin I'm gonna pick up a new belt today and replace it. Is there anything I should look for in case it wasn't dry rot? I'd hate to replace the belt for it to just break again a mile down the road.

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

Possibly a bearing one on of the pulleys???

shaka778

Thanks blk and blu. If its a bearing will the pulley still be there? Also if it's still there but the bearing is bad can I still replace the belt and drive it home to replace the pulley and bearing? I live 30 miles from where the car is, half of that uphill.

scoobySC3

iTrader: (1)

yeah like blk&blu said, it does sound like a bad idler bearing. Before you out the new belt on, manually spin and check each idler/pulley. You should be able to fund the bad bearing pretty quickly, usually you can pivot the bad pulley/idler on the bearing, or is will have some play on the forward/aft axis. With it sounding like that, I am guessing it will be an easy find, as when you spin it you should feel/hear a crunching sound. If the idler or pulley does not move and is seized(unlikely), then you will need to replace it before you put on a new belt, or it will not last the 30 miles.


Here is a great video on how to tell the difference between a bad and good bearing.


Thanks,
Rick

shaka778

Got it so as long as its not seized I can put a new belt on and drive it home. But if it's seized I will need to have it towed, correct?

shaka778

Ok so all the pulleys turn except the top one wich I assume is the water pump pulley I put the belt on and everything turned even crank shaft pulley. So im guessing the water pump seized. Could it just be the pulley or does the whole pump have to be replaced?

Both the pump timing belt and seals were all done at 99000 miles and I only have 126000 now.

So is the timing belt kit with pump my only option?

Also if it is the pump is my timing belt fried as well or can one be bad without the other?

Thanks again guys your help really has been invaluable.

shaka778

Ok so I continue to scouer all parts of the net and it's forums and my ignorance has been turned to learning. It's the idler pulley not the water pump pulley hopefully it's just the bearings in that and all I have to do is change the idler pulley. So off to oreillys I go. Hopefully this works!

scoobySC3

iTrader: (1)

That's the best part!! And yes, you should just be able to change out the idler, and should be a very quick swap with the new part. Good luck and let us know how it goes!!

Thanks,
Rick

shaka778

success!!!! So got the pulley and had it on in a total of five minuets! So stoked! New drive belt and idler pulley check I swear it's even quieter than before.

Thanks again guys hopefully I'll keep learning and be able to contribute to the forums in the future.

Maybee field some of the easier questions that I'm sure you get fifty times a day. Like where's my idler pulley pics please LOL

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

Glad Scooby and I could help