cartmill

iTrader: (3)

so you basically just modded your car so that it can't get enough air flowing through the radiator and condenser --via ditching the viscous fan/shroud and getting a huge FMIC to block all the air-- and you're wondering why the AC doesn't work well enough and why the car overheats when it's 100*+ outside.
i'm not trying to be an *** here, btw

also, has it been hotter in florida lately than it has been anywhere else in the US??? i think it's actually been cooler!



if your fmic wont allow enough air to be forced into the bay to push all the hot air out of the bay, it wont matter how many e-fans you have on the car.
you didn't post whether or not you have a bar/plate IC or a tube/fin, or if the problem is worse when you're cruising at 70mph+ on the interstate (worse than driving around town).

bryan767

iTrader: (6)

i did, lol. i understand the stock fan flows more cfm's. its seems as though the condenser is heating up so much that its heat soaking the engine bay OR the ac pump is dying and slowing down causing me to pop a alternator battery dummy light and have the water pump slow down to the point that its not flowing enough water.

does that make sense? however i guess the belt would slip and id hear noise.

also, i had an issue with the coolant temp sensor being shorted out on the alternator and giving false readings to the ecu, that was fixed and it seems like the car warms up WAY faster now then usual, but probably due to the outside temperature. im also thinking the place used 100% coolant when they refilled my system, i guess it wouldnt be a problem if it was premix.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

forget about the fan thing for a minute. i'm not hating on your e-fans.

i'm really trying to help here:

please answer yes or no.
1. is your overheating problem worse when you're on the interstate?
2. do you have a bar/plate intercooler?



also, AC relay is on the HTR fuse, not the alternator fuse. and your serpentine belt would have flown off by now if it was loose to not turn your water pump.

bryan767

iTrader: (6)

1) The car over heats (goes above the halfway point and still climbs before i turn it off):
a. With a/c - at idle
b. With a/c - while on highway

neither is worse, its just a difference of the time it takes for it to over heat. Idling of course is faster. The car doesnt not over heat when its hot out and either a/c or the heat is turned on. it acts like a normal car.

for instance,
a. last night i was driving (interstate) to to go see a movie. i turned the ac on as soon as i got in the car and within about 10 minutes of driving on the highway the needle started raising. so i turned the ac off, and it kept climbing so i turned the heat on blast and it started to fall. i turned the heat off and it stayed down like it should.
b. when i got to the movie theater my car was cooled down like it should be and we were sitting in the car waiting for our friends. i turned the ac on and within maybe 2 minutes the heat started to raise again, so i turned the car off and left the electric fans on for a few minutes. i turned the car back on to make sure the temps werent to high.

2) yes, i have a bar style front mount intercooler



the issue is related to engaging air conditioning.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

so what happens if you leave the AC totally off? if you drive to the movies again tonight with the AC off, will it overheat?

this may sound stupid, but is the engine/radiator/heatercore totally full of coolant?


also, that's a tube/fin FMIC, son. come on!

bryan767

iTrader: (6)

If i leave the ac off, it doesnt over heat. Ill go confirm that there is topped off. i did take the overflow tank off for a week, then i put an aftermarket one on. its some plastic crappy one from autozone. i know its pretty full, the over flow tank that is.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

i think your cooling system is right on the edge of functionality for whatever reason, and turning on the AC just puts it barely over the edge.

also, do you have any kind of aftermarket gauge, or are you using the stock one? and which coolant sensor were you talking about, the one for the gauge, or the one for the ECU?

bryan767

iTrader: (6)

just checked the fluid and it was filled to the nose. i tried burping the system and got 0 air.

however, i think i found the culprit. one of the main fans puller fans isnt working, and im 99% sure that fan's fuseable link is the alternator discharge warning light on the 7.5amp fuse.. because i have the light on even though i replaced the alternator. it could be blown however i think the real problem is im drawing so much power from this fuse that its giving off a false signal.. either way ill have to rewire it because the previous owner did a botch job doing it. I think with the fan working my cooling system will be back up to peak performance.

i was talking about the one for the ecu, somehow the previous owner sandwiched the wire under the 14v output power on the alternator.. i fixed the wire the other night and it runs soooo much better.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

bryan, my son,

you are powering your fans through the 7.5a ALT fuse?
WTF? are you really selling this car for $15,000????

rewire your fans on two separate 30a automotive relays, trigger them with a 180* temp switch at the bottom of the radiator and fuse each relay with a 30a,
or get a damn stock viscous fan and shroud.
you will now receive 3 public lashings for being a n00b.

bryan767

iTrader: (6)

No, it's the trigger 12v wire for the two 30a relays, and it's going to the IGN 7.5 amp fuse. I'm undoing this and rewiring it because, like iv mentioned already, the previous owner did a botch job wiring the cars accessories. I plan on using the 12v switched power wire at the ignitor 4 pin connector #2 (top left) for the 1jzgte with an inline fuse

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

okay, i'm sorry i assumed.

if you're using the 7.5a alt fuse for the TRIGGER ONLY, it will be fine. the relay only takes like .06 amps to trigger a common 30a automotive relay. i dont think that's enough to make your alternator light come on. you could try switching it to a different trigger source, but i doubt it will change anything. the high current side (87 and 30) are what's important. it doesnt really matter where the trigger comes from, as long as it's switched 12v, as it requires such low current to flip the relay, which is the whole point of the relays...

that igniter switched 12v should be fine for the trigger as well... feel free to post any diagrams and i can help you make sure it's all good.

bryan767

iTrader: (6)

Lol I understand but I think there's an issue with something in there going to the fuse box because two of the fans still work, and if the feed fuse was blown nothing would work. I'll see when I start cutting, splicing and soldering.

I think with the fan working all of my issues will go away as for the over heating but not the temperature of the ac coming out the vents. I'll try a new dryer/accumulator to see if that does anything.

bryan767

iTrader: (6)

okay so my other issues have been sorted out, and the car isnt over heating. however its still blowing cold-ish. im not getting frozen out like many other sc owners. im replacing the dryer box next