DIY: How to not strip 2jz headbolts, how to fix it if you do, and removing your crank
05-27-12, 03:01 PM
#1
DIY: How to not strip 2jz headbolts, how to fix it if you do, and removing your crank
Hey everybody, so given the advice, good and bad, available (especially on supraforums), I wanted to post the definitive way of removing your stock 2jzge headbolts, necessary for replacing your headgasket.
First off, do not use a 10mm allen socket like some people may say. You might get one or two of the headbolts loosened (don't completely loosen them though, do several passes in the order indicated by the factory service manual to prevent warping), but you're almost guaranteed to strip some of the bolts. So instead of the 10mm socket, get this tool set from Autozone for $10:
You don't need all four, just the 12mm one. You could also order this part from Snap-on or a few other sources. Again, it is a 12mm 12-point socket (also called a spline bit, triple square, or bihexagonal). The quality of the OEM brand one is surprisingly good though and did not begin to warp or strip.
Also, please take your time and use 2-3 q-tips on each headbolt to remove the oil from them...thereby reducing your chance of stripping them even more!
Anyway, lets say one of these does end up stripping, it's not the end of the world. You can try a few things:
1.) Use a TIG welder and weld a bit (allen, torx, or 12-point) to the bolt, then try loosening it.
2.) Hammer down a Torx-55 socket into the bolt head, then try loosening it. This worked on one of the two I stripped (only after I had drilled it out a bit though...)
3.) Drill the head of the bolt. You'll need a 1/4" drill bit, a 3/8" drill bit, a power drill, and some penetrating oil. Keeping the bit lubricated (as to not overheat it), start drilling with the 1/4" until you've drilled a 1/2" deep. Then switch to the 3/8" bit and do the same. Take your time with it. You don't need a 1/2" bit, thats a waste of time and money. See in the next picture the drilled out bolt head, the shaft of the bolt is just about 3/8". Once you've drilled out enough of the head, take a 3/8" cold chisel and do some work on it. Be careful to layer some rags between the head and the chisel if you need to.
Also, if you've happened to strip one of the headbolts that resides next to an oil return tube, things may appear dire, but keep your head up! Combine a 3/8" drive 12" extension and your 3/8" chisel to make super chisel! Again make sure to cushion the head if your super chisel is leaning against it.
BONUS: I've seen mention of using the starter method to remove the crank pulley, but no pictures to accompany it. Here is the setup you'll need:
Ideally not with a socket wrench, but with a Flex handle or breaker bar. Then just turn the key for a second and that should do the trick. Good luck with all this.
UPDATE: This is the 100% correct tool for the job:
http://image.snapon.com/international/pdf/sadm10e.pdf
DOUBLE UPDATE: I can't say that I recommend doing the starter bump method...rather just buy the tool made by Schley ($60) or message me to rent it.
First off, do not use a 10mm allen socket like some people may say. You might get one or two of the headbolts loosened (don't completely loosen them though, do several passes in the order indicated by the factory service manual to prevent warping), but you're almost guaranteed to strip some of the bolts. So instead of the 10mm socket, get this tool set from Autozone for $10:
You don't need all four, just the 12mm one. You could also order this part from Snap-on or a few other sources. Again, it is a 12mm 12-point socket (also called a spline bit, triple square, or bihexagonal). The quality of the OEM brand one is surprisingly good though and did not begin to warp or strip.
Also, please take your time and use 2-3 q-tips on each headbolt to remove the oil from them...thereby reducing your chance of stripping them even more!
Anyway, lets say one of these does end up stripping, it's not the end of the world. You can try a few things:
1.) Use a TIG welder and weld a bit (allen, torx, or 12-point) to the bolt, then try loosening it.
2.) Hammer down a Torx-55 socket into the bolt head, then try loosening it. This worked on one of the two I stripped (only after I had drilled it out a bit though...)
3.) Drill the head of the bolt. You'll need a 1/4" drill bit, a 3/8" drill bit, a power drill, and some penetrating oil. Keeping the bit lubricated (as to not overheat it), start drilling with the 1/4" until you've drilled a 1/2" deep. Then switch to the 3/8" bit and do the same. Take your time with it. You don't need a 1/2" bit, thats a waste of time and money. See in the next picture the drilled out bolt head, the shaft of the bolt is just about 3/8". Once you've drilled out enough of the head, take a 3/8" cold chisel and do some work on it. Be careful to layer some rags between the head and the chisel if you need to.
Also, if you've happened to strip one of the headbolts that resides next to an oil return tube, things may appear dire, but keep your head up! Combine a 3/8" drive 12" extension and your 3/8" chisel to make super chisel! Again make sure to cushion the head if your super chisel is leaning against it.
BONUS: I've seen mention of using the starter method to remove the crank pulley, but no pictures to accompany it. Here is the setup you'll need:
Ideally not with a socket wrench, but with a Flex handle or breaker bar. Then just turn the key for a second and that should do the trick. Good luck with all this.
UPDATE: This is the 100% correct tool for the job:
http://image.snapon.com/international/pdf/sadm10e.pdf
DOUBLE UPDATE: I can't say that I recommend doing the starter bump method...rather just buy the tool made by Schley ($60) or message me to rent it.
Last edited by /Aerostar\; 09-04-12 at 02:39 PM.
05-28-12, 05:38 AM
#2
Wow, looks like somebody had some unexpected fun 
I just used the hex socket, but I found that the key for me was to apply a sudden, high force bump to "break" the bolt loose. When I tried to go slow I actually twisted my first socket off. These head bolts do suck, but wait till you have to mess with studs and those PITA washers. I think next time I will sit the head on the block and thread the studs in afterwards.
I just used the hex socket, but I found that the key for me was to apply a sudden, high force bump to "break" the bolt loose. When I tried to go slow I actually twisted my first socket off. These head bolts do suck, but wait till you have to mess with studs and those PITA washers. I think next time I will sit the head on the block and thread the studs in afterwards.
09-03-12, 09:39 PM
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When I bought my car, the owner threw in an extra 2JZGE. Problem was that he stripped 3 bolts. My uncle tried to chisel the bolts but broke 3 of his good chisels. We instead resorted to drilling the bolts out as mentioned above. It took some time but a 6 pack and about 2 hours later, we got them out.
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