SCott300

iTrader: (2)

I am in the process with rebuilding my head, with intentions of going turbo before putting the motor back into the car. My plans include a TT headgasket, BC Springs and Ti Retainers, and larger cams 264's or 268's. My motor is a 2JZGE with 170k miles on it, I am going with a PT6766 and my hp goals are in the 500whp range. Also keep in mind I do have a budget to keep in mind (not super tight, but this will not be a race car that I am going to dump endless funds in)
Questions
1. Are the ARP head studs for the 2JZGE and 2JZGTE the same
2. I am planning on using BC springs and ti retainers, are they the same for the GE and GTE as well
3. Do I need to replace my valves and valve guides
4. As for my cams, I know TTC makes 268s for the GE head, but I am thinking that in order for my turbo to clear, I am going to have to delete the dist. So, with that in mind, does that open up my cam selection to GTE cams, like some Titan 264's, or if I go with the 268's for the GE head, will I have any issues when I delete the distributor?
5. I am going to replace my Water and Oil pump while the motor is out, should I go with any certain brand or upgrade, or will whatever brand that I can get from Dobbs be fine (friend is a manager their, so I get a deal on parts).
Thank You in advance

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

1: Yes they are the same
2: Yes they are the same
3: Valves will depend on the current condition of yours, @ 170k miles it's something to consider
4: The only way to run GTE cams is to modify your head to provision a GTE cam sensor which requires welding a flange on the intake side of the head. It's a custom job and needs to be in the hands of someone that can weld aluminum good. I stuck with the 7mGTE CPS for turbo clearance and overall simplicity. This does limit me in cam options on the exhaust side as it HAS to have the distributor gear still but TTC or webcams can grind you a 268 or whatever you want. Intake side can run any GTE cam non vvti.
5: I would stick with OEM Toyota stuff if your budget allows for it. Curt at Elmhurst has good pricing, compare the two and if OEM isn't much more than go that route.

Keep in mind that with the 6766, a complete unopened GE motor will make 500whp with ease, stock cams, intake, compression, of course with the right tuning and fuel support . With a built head, cams, you will achieve this # much easier and plus some.

SCott300

iTrader: (2)

Thank you very much for your help

Knuckleup

iTrader: (1)

I would get some supertech valves while your at it. They have a set that drop in and don't require a valve job.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

But for 500 hp , I wouldn't worry about Valves. stock valves works very well i wouldn't change then , i won't eVen pull the valve cover off.
500hp spring and retainer is not needed , 264 cams are not needed .
My Only concern is the ECU , what ecu are you running ? what transmission?

Knuckleup

iTrader: (1)

I'm just doing the valves/valvetrain just in case I want more power later and to be on the safer side of things. And after re-reading his first post I was reminded that im shooting for more power than the OP

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

honestly no need to change valves from stock unless burnt or bent .. just have valves lapped and cleaned of all carbon.. the real secret to make head perform at best is recutting of the seats to obtain 100 % sealing

i have reworked my entire head 2 yrs ago and have zero issues to date at 600rwhp

SCott300

iTrader: (2)

I am doing the head, while the motor is out and head is off. One of the cams is damaged, so that is another reason I am taking the head apart to see what else is damaged. Also, I am doing it now, instead of later, so that I will be able to make more power later down the road if I would like to.
I am going with AEM EMS for my ECU and an R154 since my car is a factory 5-speed car.
The car will be a long term toy, so further down the road ill upgrade fuel, rear end, maybe 6-speed, who knows, thats y i want to do the head right the first time.

Exactly

2slowsc300

iTrader: (1)

Valves are prob fine assuming all in good shape but i would deff replace valve seals an check the valve guides conditions

TLDriver

iTrader: (4)

Why not get a gte head and gte HG?

TLDriver

iTrader: (4)

reason why I suggest it is... FFIM, coil on plug, and bigger cams with a stock head. The cost of rebuilding your head, cams, and going coil on plug might add up to near the cost of getting a lower mileage gte head.

SCott300

iTrader: (2)

Because, correct me if Iam wrong, then the wiring harness changes to one for a GTE which is just going to raise the costs more and will be a PIA.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

This is exactly right switching to a GTE head is like doing a complete GTE swap wiring wise. The NA-T route is just as strong / power capable without all the wiring woes.

SCott300

iTrader: (2)

So the motor is out and apart, head is done, and I have decided to keep my distributor...
Questions
1, Will a PT6665 clear the distributor, using a quicksiler manifold (suprastore.com)? I plan on going with a FFIM
2. While my motor is out of the car and the head is off, what maintenance should be done to the bottom end since it has 170k+ miles? Do I need to change the rods, pistons, piston rings or anything else, or is the bottom end no worry?
Thank You in advance

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

Just go COP setup if you can (wise investment) and run the distributor as your cam/crank signal, you can then put a cap (mod your dist cap) on it and have tons of room. ESPECIALLY if you plan on running an FFIM, its just worth it.

I dont personally think the bottom end needs touching unless you notice anything about the cylinders or it has been beat on. My car has the same mileage basically and im going for more HP and im not touching my bottom end.

Make sure you do the EGR delete if you havent already.