1JZ Finally Done! Tuning Issues!
05-01-12, 12:21 PM
#1
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1JZ Finally Done! Tuning Issues! *Exhaust Video Added*
Ok after a loooooong time, I am finally finished with the 1J.
Set up is :
1JZ Stock Block and Head
6265 Precision Turbo w/Billet Wheel
Tial Wastegate
DM BOV (Not Installed Yet)
440cc Inj from JDM 2JZ
Walbro 255
Aem Uego Wideband
Aem Truboost Gauge and Controller
Safc2
3' piping all the way back to Dual Top Speed Pro Mufflers
I drove the car a couple days ago and the exhaust note was exactly what i was looking for. It was a nice and cool night so temperature stayed between 200-220 F on my aftermarket gauge, which i believe is normal. And my wideband gauge was reading great for normal driving, but any time I started to boost a bit it would go lean. So i added some fuel using the safc2 and eventually got it to be around 10.xx under boost. Boost controller is set at 10 but i keep getting a spike up to 12 psi.
After that night ive decided to get it tuned at a local performance shop to let the pros get their hands on it. Went to drive the car today up to the shop and here we go......problem....
The car will not rev over 2k rpm whether driving or free revving, and when it does reach 2k rpm my wideband goes lean immediately!! Also my boost gauge goes from negative (Vacuum) to 0 awfully quick just sitting in neutral and giving it a couple revs.
All the vacuum lines look like they are still in the same spot and same goes for couplers on intercooler piping.........
IM STUMPED!!
Set up is :
1JZ Stock Block and Head
6265 Precision Turbo w/Billet Wheel
Tial Wastegate
DM BOV (Not Installed Yet)
440cc Inj from JDM 2JZ
Walbro 255
Aem Uego Wideband
Aem Truboost Gauge and Controller
Safc2
3' piping all the way back to Dual Top Speed Pro Mufflers
I drove the car a couple days ago and the exhaust note was exactly what i was looking for. It was a nice and cool night so temperature stayed between 200-220 F on my aftermarket gauge, which i believe is normal. And my wideband gauge was reading great for normal driving, but any time I started to boost a bit it would go lean. So i added some fuel using the safc2 and eventually got it to be around 10.xx under boost. Boost controller is set at 10 but i keep getting a spike up to 12 psi.
After that night ive decided to get it tuned at a local performance shop to let the pros get their hands on it. Went to drive the car today up to the shop and here we go......problem....
The car will not rev over 2k rpm whether driving or free revving, and when it does reach 2k rpm my wideband goes lean immediately!! Also my boost gauge goes from negative (Vacuum) to 0 awfully quick just sitting in neutral and giving it a couple revs.
All the vacuum lines look like they are still in the same spot and same goes for couplers on intercooler piping.........
IM STUMPED!!
Last edited by WetLexus; 01-26-13 at 11:47 AM.
05-01-12, 02:29 PM
#3
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"At WOT, I would say generally 10.5 is where the stock ECU likes to be. 11.5 is a safe tune. 12.0 is a good performance tune. 12.5 is getting quite risky. 13.0 is not good''
10-11.5 is the range you should be looking to hit when tuning.
Safc
Under settings:
1.Hi-thr - 1k to 4k rpm leave it at zero. 5k to 8k rpm put -5 to -8% (you may need to pull a little more but just go slow)
2.Lo-thr - all at zero (i suggest taking out 1-3% in the 1k-2k range),
3.Th-point
Lo = 50% and Hi = 75% (I had mine set at 28% and 29% because i have alot of hills around me so it helps ..ps - I have a auto)
4.Ne-Point
Ne1 = 1000
Ne2 = 2000
Ne3 = 3000
and so on up until Ne8 = 8000
5.Dec - Air
Thr = ****
Ne1 = 10.0%
Ne2 = 10.0%
Under etc.
Sensor type = Pressure
sens no In = 01, Out = 01
Car sel
Cyl = 6, and Thr (arrow up and to the right)
as for you not reving over 2k:
-first, check your codes!
-check the crank position sensor. you can unplug it right behind the alternator (i squashed my wires when i installed the alternator and had to rewire it wouldnt rev over 2k)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...-54-19_382.jpg
-ecu capacitors could be leaking
-tps could be dead
-map sensor not plugged in (vacuum from from the intake manifold)
-body plug connectors and the hydro fan ecu connecter look the same and could be mixed up
10-11.5 is the range you should be looking to hit when tuning.
Safc
Under settings:
1.Hi-thr - 1k to 4k rpm leave it at zero. 5k to 8k rpm put -5 to -8% (you may need to pull a little more but just go slow)
2.Lo-thr - all at zero (i suggest taking out 1-3% in the 1k-2k range),
3.Th-point
Lo = 50% and Hi = 75% (I had mine set at 28% and 29% because i have alot of hills around me so it helps ..ps - I have a auto)
4.Ne-Point
Ne1 = 1000
Ne2 = 2000
Ne3 = 3000
and so on up until Ne8 = 8000
5.Dec - Air
Thr = ****
Ne1 = 10.0%
Ne2 = 10.0%
Under etc.
Sensor type = Pressure
sens no In = 01, Out = 01
Car sel
Cyl = 6, and Thr (arrow up and to the right)
as for you not reving over 2k:
-first, check your codes!
-check the crank position sensor. you can unplug it right behind the alternator (i squashed my wires when i installed the alternator and had to rewire it wouldnt rev over 2k)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...-54-19_382.jpg
-ecu capacitors could be leaking
-tps could be dead
-map sensor not plugged in (vacuum from from the intake manifold)
-body plug connectors and the hydro fan ecu connecter look the same and could be mixed up
Last edited by bryan767; 05-01-12 at 04:34 PM.
05-01-12, 02:41 PM
#4
Wow, I came in hoping to help a guy out, but this thread already has a winner!^
Great post, bryan767. This is what the Lexus community needs!
But also remember, with the SAFC you are adjusting the MAP sensor.
If you over volt the sensor by adding fuel on the SAFC, which is what you are doing sending the ECU a different voltage than the MAP sensor reports, you will reach the factory boost cut of around 17-18psi.
This is why I like the AEM FIC more and more with its MAP and timing clamp feature.
Great post, bryan767. This is what the Lexus community needs!
But also remember, with the SAFC you are adjusting the MAP sensor.
If you over volt the sensor by adding fuel on the SAFC, which is what you are doing sending the ECU a different voltage than the MAP sensor reports, you will reach the factory boost cut of around 17-18psi.
This is why I like the AEM FIC more and more with its MAP and timing clamp feature.
05-01-12, 03:39 PM
#5
"At WOT, I would say generally 10.5 is where the stock ECU likes to be. 11.5 is a safe tune. 12.0 is a good performance tune. 12.5 is getting quite risky. 13.0 is not good''
10-11.5 is the range you should be looking to hit when tuning.
Safc
Under settings:
1.Hi-thr - 1k to 4k rpm leave it at zero. 5k t0 8k rpm put -5 to -8% (you may need to pull a little more but just go slow)
2.Lo-thr - all at zero (i suggest taking out 1-3% in the 1k-2k range),
3.Th-point
Lo = 50% and Hi = 75% (I had mine set at 28% and 29% because i have alot of hills around me so it helps)
4.Ne-Point
Ne1 = 1000
Ne2 = 2000
Ne3 = 3000
and so on up until Ne8 = 1000
5.Dec - Air
Thr = ****
Ne1 = 10.0%
Ne2 = 10.0%
Under etc.
Sensor type = Pressure
sens no In = 01, Out = 01
Car sel
Cyl = 6, and Thr (arrow up and to the right)
as for you not reving over 2k:
-first, check your codes!
-check the crank position sensor. you can unplug it right behind the alternator (i squashed my wires when i installed the alternator and had to rewire it wouldnt rev over 2k)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...-54-19_382.jpg
-ecu capacitors could be leaking
-tps could be dead
-map sensor not plugged in (vacuum from from the intake manifold)
-body plug connectors and the hydro fan ecu connecter look the same and could be mixed up
10-11.5 is the range you should be looking to hit when tuning.
Safc
Under settings:
1.Hi-thr - 1k to 4k rpm leave it at zero. 5k t0 8k rpm put -5 to -8% (you may need to pull a little more but just go slow)
2.Lo-thr - all at zero (i suggest taking out 1-3% in the 1k-2k range),
3.Th-point
Lo = 50% and Hi = 75% (I had mine set at 28% and 29% because i have alot of hills around me so it helps)
4.Ne-Point
Ne1 = 1000
Ne2 = 2000
Ne3 = 3000
and so on up until Ne8 = 1000
5.Dec - Air
Thr = ****
Ne1 = 10.0%
Ne2 = 10.0%
Under etc.
Sensor type = Pressure
sens no In = 01, Out = 01
Car sel
Cyl = 6, and Thr (arrow up and to the right)
as for you not reving over 2k:
-first, check your codes!
-check the crank position sensor. you can unplug it right behind the alternator (i squashed my wires when i installed the alternator and had to rewire it wouldnt rev over 2k)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...-54-19_382.jpg
-ecu capacitors could be leaking
-tps could be dead
-map sensor not plugged in (vacuum from from the intake manifold)
-body plug connectors and the hydro fan ecu connecter look the same and could be mixed up
05-01-12, 04:37 PM
#6
Lexus Test Driver
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I agree^
I'm not sure why people move them around. I put them where I start making boost otherwise I run lean. - again like I said I have a lot of hills near me so 28% I start making boost at 2.3krpm. I set it up so fuel will be adde here and let the turbo do what it's supposed to do. More then likely different for a manual or your location. Start with 68%/69% if it feels weird like it should be making boost at a lower % just lower it. You can do this while driving but it takes up to 5 seconds for the safc to make changes
I'm not sure why people move them around. I put them where I start making boost otherwise I run lean. - again like I said I have a lot of hills near me so 28% I start making boost at 2.3krpm. I set it up so fuel will be adde here and let the turbo do what it's supposed to do. More then likely different for a manual or your location. Start with 68%/69% if it feels weird like it should be making boost at a lower % just lower it. You can do this while driving but it takes up to 5 seconds for the safc to make changes
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05-02-12, 05:24 AM
#8
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"At WOT, I would say generally 10.5 is where the stock ECU likes to be. 11.5 is a safe tune. 12.0 is a good performance tune. 12.5 is getting quite risky. 13.0 is not good''
10-11.5 is the range you should be looking to hit when tuning.
Safc
Under settings:
1.Hi-thr - 1k to 4k rpm leave it at zero. 5k to 8k rpm put -5 to -8% (you may need to pull a little more but just go slow)
2.Lo-thr - all at zero (i suggest taking out 1-3% in the 1k-2k range),
3.Th-point
Lo = 50% and Hi = 75% (I had mine set at 28% and 29% because i have alot of hills around me so it helps ..ps - I have a auto)
4.Ne-Point
Ne1 = 1000
Ne2 = 2000
Ne3 = 3000
and so on up until Ne8 = 8000
5.Dec - Air
Thr = ****
Ne1 = 10.0%
Ne2 = 10.0%
Under etc.
Sensor type = Pressure
sens no In = 01, Out = 01
Car sel
Cyl = 6, and Thr (arrow up and to the right)
as for you not reving over 2k:
-first, check your codes!
-check the crank position sensor. you can unplug it right behind the alternator (i squashed my wires when i installed the alternator and had to rewire it wouldnt rev over 2k)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...-54-19_382.jpg
-ecu capacitors could be leaking
-tps could be dead
-map sensor not plugged in (vacuum from from the intake manifold)
-body plug connectors and the hydro fan ecu connecter look the same and could be mixed up
10-11.5 is the range you should be looking to hit when tuning.
Safc
Under settings:
1.Hi-thr - 1k to 4k rpm leave it at zero. 5k to 8k rpm put -5 to -8% (you may need to pull a little more but just go slow)
2.Lo-thr - all at zero (i suggest taking out 1-3% in the 1k-2k range),
3.Th-point
Lo = 50% and Hi = 75% (I had mine set at 28% and 29% because i have alot of hills around me so it helps ..ps - I have a auto)
4.Ne-Point
Ne1 = 1000
Ne2 = 2000
Ne3 = 3000
and so on up until Ne8 = 8000
5.Dec - Air
Thr = ****
Ne1 = 10.0%
Ne2 = 10.0%
Under etc.
Sensor type = Pressure
sens no In = 01, Out = 01
Car sel
Cyl = 6, and Thr (arrow up and to the right)
as for you not reving over 2k:
-first, check your codes!
-check the crank position sensor. you can unplug it right behind the alternator (i squashed my wires when i installed the alternator and had to rewire it wouldnt rev over 2k)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...-54-19_382.jpg
-ecu capacitors could be leaking
-tps could be dead
-map sensor not plugged in (vacuum from from the intake manifold)
-body plug connectors and the hydro fan ecu connecter look the same and could be mixed up
Another thing, I went back to the car started it up and messed with it for a while. Literally just trying to feather the throttle to see if i can get it over 2k rpm. And magically it just did it!!
I took it out for a drive and it drove fine, then i go back and park the car without shutting it off, come back in it and try to rev up and once again it wont rev past 2k again!! very frustrating!
05-02-12, 05:30 AM
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That's fantastic info. My only question (and maybe suggestion) is to actually put the LO/HI throttle cutoff points right next to each other (mine is at 64/65%) just because my ECU likes to freak out and correct off the O2 sensors at anything below that throttle setting.
05-02-12, 09:15 AM
#11
After that night ive decided to get it tuned at a local performance shop to let the pros get their hands on it. Went to drive the car today up to the shop and here we go......problem....
The car will not rev over 2k rpm whether driving or free revving, and when it does reach 2k rpm my wideband goes lean immediately!! Also my boost gauge goes from negative (Vacuum) to 0 awfully quick just sitting in neutral and giving it a couple revs.
All the vacuum lines look like they are still in the same spot and same goes for couplers on intercooler piping.........
IM STUMPED!!
The car will not rev over 2k rpm whether driving or free revving, and when it does reach 2k rpm my wideband goes lean immediately!! Also my boost gauge goes from negative (Vacuum) to 0 awfully quick just sitting in neutral and giving it a couple revs.
All the vacuum lines look like they are still in the same spot and same goes for couplers on intercooler piping.........
IM STUMPED!!
i would personally try to swap ECUs, and if that doesn't fix it, uninstall the SAFC and see if it still does it.
bryan's post was pretty thorough.
05-02-12, 09:24 AM
#12
You guys know what would be really awesome?
A "Tuning" sub-forum.
There are a lot of savvy tuners in here that could get together, write some stickies on basic stuff, and contribute more thoroughly to the newer, and more complicated Tuning systems out there.
Because Honestly I am really tired of the "SAFC or Standalone" pre-fabricated responses we are getting around here.
A "Tuning" sub-forum.
There are a lot of savvy tuners in here that could get together, write some stickies on basic stuff, and contribute more thoroughly to the newer, and more complicated Tuning systems out there.
Because Honestly I am really tired of the "SAFC or Standalone" pre-fabricated responses we are getting around here.
05-02-12, 09:35 AM
#13
gte & na-t
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^^^Cartmill is right ! I would check the ECU, swap it out for another one..the 1jz ecu prone to do this type of stuff. I would run great but out of nowhere it will pop and backfire and it will go from idling from 750rpm to100 rpm , Iac Valve will stock open.
So we raise the idle from 100 rpm to 1100 rpm then after a couple hours everything go back to normal but still have to turn the idle screw because it's idling to high now lol .
And you can actually smell a strong odor inside the car from the leaky Capacitors.
It's more than likely your ecu..there is a thread on here "post your 1jz issues".
So we raise the idle from 100 rpm to 1100 rpm then after a couple hours everything go back to normal but still have to turn the idle screw because it's idling to high now lol .
And you can actually smell a strong odor inside the car from the leaky Capacitors.
It's more than likely your ecu..there is a thread on here "post your 1jz issues".