Very Nice! keep us posted

 

yay! details NOWWWWWWWWWW! vids? something! im gonna pull the trigger on mine now here in the next week for two but ill be going for distributor use per the diagram you gave me.

 

its pretty much as I described in my thread, but I am right now on the TT coilpacks.
It did not like the larger injectors with a 3 bar map sensor at all, i have not tried the motorolla 2.5 bar yet, maybe later on.
Basically to use the larger injectors on these you still need the stock map sensor and a piggyback.

but with a 2jz map sensor, 440c injectors, universal gm IAT, and connecting one extra ground wire at the ecu (its actually for heated o2 sensors which I plan on installing soon), it runs better than I could have imagined. I don't even have a cel at all. most odb1 sc300's never had heated sensors, so they dont have the pin there from factory, you just add a wire and connect it to the other ecu ground pin, ill post the details on what #'s they are in a bit.

I had a manual harness (stock manual sc300 harness), so all I had to do for getting the car to start, was jumper the 2 pins on the clucth pedal start switch. the car starts right up without the clutch needed to be pressed (helps against crankwalk also).

It runs really well, better than my aem ever did,particularly with tip in, decel, and free revving.
The Icing on the Cake is that by rotating the distributor, I can advance the base timing to whatever I want, or decrease it to whatever I want, I verified this with the light.
GTE owners cannot even adjust their timing, so my theory is correct, when you install large injectors with a piggyback, the ecu will advance the base timing because of the airflow, but NA-T can just simply turn the distirbutor back to counter this. I still think this ecu will work best with 440 or 550cc injectors, above that you are on your own for experimentation, I don't have all the time in the world to do that.. lol.
but I think 550's will support like 60% of the basic na-t crowds power goals, and hopefully people will stop using GE ecu's and messing up their engines.
I am even using a FFIM and a q45 throttle body, and the car runs like stock.
I knew it should do this in theory, but to actually drive it like that was pure awesomeness.

btw my car sat for a whole month, and it started right up on the second click on a small deka battery, and thats right after I installed injectors so there was no pressure in the rail on that start, it built pressure and fired off in 1 second and was idling perfectly. AMAZING!!!!

I will try and get some videos tonight, but the engine bay could use some cleaning since its been sitting so long, and I haven't gone back and re wrapped the intake side of my harness yet.

 

this weekend I will likely be going back to vvti coils and ignitor, just cause I like them better.
So I will see if there is any issues with that as well, if that works, I would assume you can also use the stock distributor and coil in the same manner of tying all the igt signals together instead of just the pairs for vvti coils. stay tuned.

 

I'm na-t on ge ecu at the moment hks vpc + safcII 660's 12psi tt hg

But I'm deff staying tuned for what's to come here !! Sounds promising

 

What the difference between the vvti and what you have now? I don't have any experience with coil packs at all.

 

vvti coils are from the newer vvti gte's and ge's (is300 etc..)
Toyota switched to these coils in the late 90's and they are an improvement over the old system.
there are 3 coils that are really beefy, and they fire in wasted spark.
They are just newer tech and more reliable compared to gte coils.
once the gte coils crack (matter of time), you may start to experience misfires and such.
Members here are running over 30 psi on the stock vvti coils, no hks dli nothing.

I like the fact that there is a plug wire on cylinder 1 too, so its easy to check the timing.

give my other thread a read:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...coilpacks.html

 

Tested the vvti coils and ignitor on the TT ecu, they work just fine.
Just tied the triggers together for coils 1+6, 2+5, 3+4 at ecu. fired right up.

 

I read a couple of threads you posted, very helpful thanks. I will diffidently plan on using them in the future.

A couple more small things, how much would you approximate just the ignitions parts at? and, With coils do you have to worry about gaping or anything?

*edit: Just trying to get an idea of what a full Na-t set up will really cost me.

 

vvti coils I just drop in stock gapped tt plugs, no need to gap them down to boost, which is my fav part.
If you run over 14 psi on a single turbo, go at least 1 heat range cooler than stock. I think stock is a 6 so go 7 over 14 psi, and if you boost over 18-20 then go for a 8 range plug.

vvti coils can be had for ~120-150 depending on condition and availability. ds62 ignitor is like $30, but if you want the vvti ignitor dh-61 which is more or less the same ignitor, thats like $80-100 (cause its from a lexus instead of a toyota).

 

may be a dumb question but im new to tuning, but anyways. whats the max HP you can squeeze out the the GTE ecu? i always thought u had to go stand alone for good reliable tuning. but your problems with the AEM have me leaning towards going with a GTE ECU

 

For the JDM ecu with 440cc injectors, 400hp. with 550's and a piggyback about 500hp.
Obviously the JDM ecu will behave best with 440's, but should work well up to 660cc's with a good piggyback.
I have heard of map ecu setups with 1000cc injectors, although im not sure how the drive-ability is on that.
For most a solid reliable ecu that can do 500hp with a piggyback fits the bill pretty well.
above that range you are in more advanced piggybacks or standalones

 

Great, thanks for the info. I think down the line I would like to do around 15 psi because from what i see that should get 350-400whp.

 

yeah that will be just right with the Gte ecu and it will drive like a stock turbo car.

 

I have a question about the throttle plate inside the intake plenum.

I know it's there to help with low end torque for the NA motor but will switching to the GTE ECU make this system null and void?

The manual makes it appear to run off vacuum and either sends/receives a signal from the ECU. Not sure if deleting it would be worth my time. Or will it still work properly with the GTE ECU?