Piggyback guys: How clean is your closed loop?
02-03-12, 02:21 PM
#17
Can I ask you, do you have a NA-T or a GTE swap?
The SAFC is a nice little fuel trimmer for the factory speed density cars for a mild increase in injector capability. This is because you are trimming the Voltage for the MAP sensor, which measures the air directly.
Using a SAFC with Throttle Vs RPM is silly, which is what you have to do with the MAF systems.
Either way, it seems the MAP ECU, AEM FIC, And Mega Squirt are the most cost effective Fuel computers you can get when you wanna get serious.
02-04-12, 07:36 AM
#18
Can I ask you, do you have a NA-T or a GTE swap?
The SAFC is a nice little fuel trimmer for the factory speed density cars for a mild increase in injector capability. This is because you are trimming the Voltage for the MAP sensor, which measures the air directly.
Using a SAFC with Throttle Vs RPM is silly, which is what you have to do with the MAF systems.
Either way, it seems the MAP ECU, AEM FIC, And Mega Squirt are the most cost effective Fuel computers you can get when you wanna get serious.
The SAFC is a nice little fuel trimmer for the factory speed density cars for a mild increase in injector capability. This is because you are trimming the Voltage for the MAP sensor, which measures the air directly.
Using a SAFC with Throttle Vs RPM is silly, which is what you have to do with the MAF systems.
Either way, it seems the MAP ECU, AEM FIC, And Mega Squirt are the most cost effective Fuel computers you can get when you wanna get serious.
AEM FIC and MAP ECU Are piggyback systems, which intercept signals and output different ones to the stock ECU.
MegaSquirt is an full ecu, which replaces the stock computer entirely.
02-04-12, 09:33 AM
#21
i'm currently running the Map Ecu 2, on highway driving and full throttle it drives perfect. but recently noticed now almost every time i drive in low speeds or at a red light it would run very rich. it didn't used to do that at all. it might either need a tune, have a stuck injector or bad ecu.
02-04-12, 11:10 AM
#22
However, I did also mention that they were the most COST EFFECTIVE units, since they all have similar pricing.
Weather or not they are more advanced then the other one is irrelevant.
You can't chip the Stock ECU, and AEM V1/V2 are crazy expensive. This is the best "Grey" area.
02-04-12, 11:30 AM
#23
i'm currently running the Map Ecu 2, on highway driving and full throttle it drives perfect. but recently noticed now almost every time i drive in low speeds or at a red light it would run very rich. it didn't used to do that at all. it might either need a tune, have a stuck injector or bad ecu.
02-04-12, 11:59 AM
#24
With all that time and work, do you wish you just would have gone standalone?I have considered going standalone MANY, MANY times. But I'm only pushing 18lbs on a T67 and I'm not looking for anything more than that. My car idles like stock and gets better gas mileage. I don't see the need to spend more unnecessary money. Turboing your car is expensive enough.
02-04-12, 02:52 PM
#27
iv had a mapecu2 and plan getting the mapecu3 for my current ride. to me its a cheaper alternative to aem without the huge name.
right now i have the first safc and i HATE IT. i plan to destroy it with some sort of very blunt object once i remove it from my car. for some reason sometimes it just stops working and my afr's will spike or itll be messing with sometime it shouldnt be and stall out my car. as i posted today on my facebook after my car for some odd reason was idling at 500rpm at 17-20afr which was causing the car to stall over and over...
"god i hate the safc. it stalled out my car today at a stop light, checked my afrs and they were WAY to high and idle speed way to low. i ****ing hate this piece of ****. 10% if the time my car runs top, 80% its not running as lean as it needs to be.. and 10% if of the time it fks up.."
right now i have the first safc and i HATE IT. i plan to destroy it with some sort of very blunt object once i remove it from my car. for some reason sometimes it just stops working and my afr's will spike or itll be messing with sometime it shouldnt be and stall out my car. as i posted today on my facebook after my car for some odd reason was idling at 500rpm at 17-20afr which was causing the car to stall over and over...
"god i hate the safc. it stalled out my car today at a stop light, checked my afrs and they were WAY to high and idle speed way to low. i ****ing hate this piece of ****. 10% if the time my car runs top, 80% its not running as lean as it needs to be.. and 10% if of the time it fks up.."
The piggybacks that intercept the injector and ignition signals themselves work alot better, but these are expensive units.
There used to be a software problem with the ac but that was updated many years ago and works plug and play now.
Standalone is never overkill, but for those with lower power goals using a gte ecu is a great option, it gets rid of the transition problem with the ge ecu as well as better timing and fuel maps. Its the only other acceptable ecu I would personally use on my car.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-04-12 at 02:56 PM.
02-04-12, 03:38 PM
#28
The problem is the stock ecu not the afc. as someone mentioned its really meant for trimming.
The piggybacks that intercept the injector and ignition signals themselves work alot better, but these are expensive units.
Aem v1 runs the stock automatic and air conditioning, there are tons of people using it with automatics.
There used to be a software problem with the ac but that was updated many years ago and works plug and play now.
Standalone is never overkill, but for those with lower power goals using a gte ecu is a great option, it gets rid of the transition problem with the ge ecu as well as better timing and fuel maps. Its the only other acceptable ecu I would personally use on my car.
The piggybacks that intercept the injector and ignition signals themselves work alot better, but these are expensive units.
Aem v1 runs the stock automatic and air conditioning, there are tons of people using it with automatics.
There used to be a software problem with the ac but that was updated many years ago and works plug and play now.
Standalone is never overkill, but for those with lower power goals using a gte ecu is a great option, it gets rid of the transition problem with the ge ecu as well as better timing and fuel maps. Its the only other acceptable ecu I would personally use on my car.
I agree 100% on every point! I am heavily leaning toward converting to an Aristo GTE ecu but I have yet to meet anyone that has any real world experience with drivability.
02-04-12, 10:05 PM
#29
There are people who run it, they just don't write about it much.
If you get the right injectors its no different than an aristo with a single on it, and have factory driveability as long as you don't go too large over stock size in injector upgrades. closer to stock size, the better the drive ability because the larger you go the more advance you are adding in.
I use the 150% guide so for 440cc Jdm ecu's you would want to stay under 660cc injectors, and for the 550cc US ecu's you would want to stay under 825cc injectors. give this thread a read http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=7291
If you get the right injectors its no different than an aristo with a single on it, and have factory driveability as long as you don't go too large over stock size in injector upgrades. closer to stock size, the better the drive ability because the larger you go the more advance you are adding in.
I use the 150% guide so for 440cc Jdm ecu's you would want to stay under 660cc injectors, and for the 550cc US ecu's you would want to stay under 825cc injectors. give this thread a read http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=7291
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-04-12 at 10:12 PM.
