Clutch Engagement/Disengagement Issue with W58 SC300
#1
Lead Lap
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Clutch Engagement/Disengagement Issue with W58 SC300
I just picked up a '93 NA-T SC with a W58 and the clutch is engaging at the very bottom of the floor and occasionally when pushing the clutch all the way in it won't even disengage so I can put the car in a different gear...The previous owner said it just started doing that out of nowhere and he wasn't car knowledgable so he never attempted to fix it and didn't know what was wrong. What it seems like to me is that the clutch master/slave cylinder isn't push the fork far enough to really disengage the clutch.....has this happened to anyone else before? I was thinking of just making a longer slave rod, but I know that probably isn't the right way to band-aid fix this issue. Any suggestions?
#2
Lexus Test Driver
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when it stops engaging will it work again if you pump it a few times? if so typically means there is air in the system or a leak which is most likely the slave or possibly the flexible portion of the clutch line.
#3
Lead Lap
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It's acting weird...When I first start the car and take it for a drive it works for the first few minutes, but the engagement is right at the bottom of the floor...then after a few minutes it won't disengage and it stays stuck in gear. I haven't tried anything to fix it yet, so I'm definitely going to look for leaks and bleed it....I was thinking of doing a ss clutch line and the longer slave rod...opinions?
#5
Lead Lap
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Lol I used to own a DSM and that's why I came up with that idea... Previous owner said he replaced master already... So I guess I'll try the slave cylinder. Is there any special way for bleeding the system?
#7
Lead Lap
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I don't think the clutch is the issue...seems like the hydraulic system or worst case scenario might be the clutch fork....at least thats what I'm thinking...I don't want to just start throwing parts at it and wasting money.
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#9
Lead Lap
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Speaking of adjusting pedal free play...I was actually playing with that a little today and I set it so that the rod is firm and can't be wiggled around at all...it feels like as soon as you start pushing the clutch that it is pushing hydraulic fluid.
Is there a proper way to bleed the clutch hydraulics? I didn't try searching it yet, but if anyone can explain any tips/tricks quick I would appreciate it.
Is there a proper way to bleed the clutch hydraulics? I didn't try searching it yet, but if anyone can explain any tips/tricks quick I would appreciate it.
#10
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I was wondering because I have a similar issue.
I have a soft pedal feel and I can feel it engage when it finally is pushed all the way down but
it won't let me go into gear. once it is in gear though it runs ok. I just can not put it into gear or change gears.
I have a soft pedal feel and I can feel it engage when it finally is pushed all the way down but
it won't let me go into gear. once it is in gear though it runs ok. I just can not put it into gear or change gears.
#11
Lead Lap
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Bleeding the clutch isn't all that hard. You can purchase a hand held bleeder from autozone or just do it the old fashion way.
-Get a vinyl tube and connect it to the bleeder plug and attach the other end onto a container or bottle filled with brake fluid.
-Press the clutch a couple of times, then release the bleeder plug until fluid starts to run out. Then close the plug and repeat.
-Do this a couple of times until no more air is left in the lines. Also make sure the clutch master reservoir is filled during the whole process.
-Get a vinyl tube and connect it to the bleeder plug and attach the other end onto a container or bottle filled with brake fluid.
-Press the clutch a couple of times, then release the bleeder plug until fluid starts to run out. Then close the plug and repeat.
-Do this a couple of times until no more air is left in the lines. Also make sure the clutch master reservoir is filled during the whole process.
#12
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Bleeding the clutch isn't all that hard. You can purchase a hand held bleeder from autozone or just do it the old fashion way.
-Get a vinyl tube and connect it to the bleeder plug and attach the other end onto a container or bottle filled with brake fluid.
-Press the clutch a couple of times, then release the bleeder plug until fluid starts to run out. Then close the plug and repeat.
-Do this a couple of times until no more air is left in the lines. Also make sure the clutch master reservoir is filled during the whole process.
-Get a vinyl tube and connect it to the bleeder plug and attach the other end onto a container or bottle filled with brake fluid.
-Press the clutch a couple of times, then release the bleeder plug until fluid starts to run out. Then close the plug and repeat.
-Do this a couple of times until no more air is left in the lines. Also make sure the clutch master reservoir is filled during the whole process.
I'll take a look at it. I'll look at the manual if I have issues I'll be back
#13
Lead Lap
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UPDATE: Well I bled the slave and at first it seemed better...I was able to drive regularly and it went into gear and allowed me to shift through all gears....then when I hit it in second gear and boost came on and I tried to shift to third then it wouldn't go in...I didn't try to shift it in hard, just a normal shift. So now I'm thinking I'm going to replace the line with a SS one and then I'm going to drop the tranny and see if the pressure plate bolts are tight. Awhile back lemmiewink had a similar issue and found out that his pressure plate was coming loose...although he was lucky since he had an R154 and those have viewing plates that can be removed to see inside the bell housing whereas I don't think the W58 has that unless I missed it since I didn't look on the passenger side.
#14
Pit Crew
I'm having a similar problem so searched "clutch" and found this thread.
If you hold the clutch pedal down while in gear, does the clutch gradually engage?
That would be a sure sign of a hydraulic issue, master or slave.
in those cases, like if you have to wait longer than you thought behind some distracted driver at a stop, I have to pick my pedal up off the floor with my toe, although the clutch has engaged and I'm on my way.
I can handle that for a while, but my wife is having none of it!
So, how do you determine if it is a master or slave? The shop manual instructions for replacing a master are scary.
Jonas
If you hold the clutch pedal down while in gear, does the clutch gradually engage?
That would be a sure sign of a hydraulic issue, master or slave.
in those cases, like if you have to wait longer than you thought behind some distracted driver at a stop, I have to pick my pedal up off the floor with my toe, although the clutch has engaged and I'm on my way.
I can handle that for a while, but my wife is having none of it!
So, how do you determine if it is a master or slave? The shop manual instructions for replacing a master are scary.
Jonas
#15
Lead Lap
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Mine won't gradually engage if I sit in a gear and hold the clutch. I still haven't had a chance to drop the tranny, but tomorrow hopefully I will be able to do that...I'm thinking it's pressure plate/fork related on mine.
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