2jz-ge Loss of power under 4kRPM
09-08-11, 09:51 AM
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2jz-ge Loss of power under 4kRPM
Hello everyone, I am new here to the forum but have searched and searched for a solution but have come up short. A very similar post on a different thread exists but had no real solution and got very jumbled.
Story: This summer I bought my dream car, a stock 1996 SC300 5speed. I paid $4500 for 80,000 original miles. Car is super clean and a hell of a buy. But due to a rear-end collision the car came with a salvage title, which is no problem cause I have a dealers license and tag. I will post pictures soon
Problem: When I first start up the car in the cool morning everything appears in order. Idles at the right RPM and all. However, this is misleading. Once you start driving (within the first 30 min) you cant help but feel like the car is being held back, it has alright/decent pull (if it were a ford taurus) but you know it is not the engines full potential. Here's where it gets interesting. In all gears (most prevalent in 2nd and 3rd gear where my power brand in most important) at full throttle, the car slugs along until it hit 4k RPM, and out of no where it is like it gets a shot of steroids to the *** and it opens up like a beast. And for a moment i get a glimpse of the car underneath the issue. So needless to say, my top-end runs awesomely.
Interesting things to note:
There doesn't seem to be any noticeable MISS in the firing, at least in the first 30min of driving. I will go ahead and change both the plugs and wires but for now Im not certain that is the only problem.
After 30-60 min of driving it (no matter the weather), the car losses power way down low, like its literally a challenge to get it off the line. This is especially prevalent once it has been shut off. On start up again after a 5 min cool down the car struggles and limps.
My thoughts: which might not be worth two cents..
Its a firing issue, most likely injectors? Since i have the top-end, it seems more logical. I have put injector cleaner in multiple tanks and maybe a slight improvement but no fix by any means.
i will change the fuel filter, as well as check the exhaust for bends and kinks from the collision but i'm more than sure it has none as the car was completely repaired.
The car is my only car here at school but i have my girlfriend drive me everywhere so i can keep it in the garage out of harms way. I really want to drive it as little as possible until i get it up on jacks and the problem fixed. But with it taking 3 hours to merely change the plugs i want a general idea of what to try before i pull it apart and put it all back together again.
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated since all 2 mechanics i talked to had no clue where to start beyond plugs.
Story: This summer I bought my dream car, a stock 1996 SC300 5speed. I paid $4500 for 80,000 original miles. Car is super clean and a hell of a buy. But due to a rear-end collision the car came with a salvage title, which is no problem cause I have a dealers license and tag. I will post pictures soon
Problem: When I first start up the car in the cool morning everything appears in order. Idles at the right RPM and all. However, this is misleading. Once you start driving (within the first 30 min) you cant help but feel like the car is being held back, it has alright/decent pull (if it were a ford taurus) but you know it is not the engines full potential. Here's where it gets interesting. In all gears (most prevalent in 2nd and 3rd gear where my power brand in most important) at full throttle, the car slugs along until it hit 4k RPM, and out of no where it is like it gets a shot of steroids to the *** and it opens up like a beast. And for a moment i get a glimpse of the car underneath the issue. So needless to say, my top-end runs awesomely.
Interesting things to note:
There doesn't seem to be any noticeable MISS in the firing, at least in the first 30min of driving. I will go ahead and change both the plugs and wires but for now Im not certain that is the only problem.
After 30-60 min of driving it (no matter the weather), the car losses power way down low, like its literally a challenge to get it off the line. This is especially prevalent once it has been shut off. On start up again after a 5 min cool down the car struggles and limps.
My thoughts: which might not be worth two cents..
Its a firing issue, most likely injectors? Since i have the top-end, it seems more logical. I have put injector cleaner in multiple tanks and maybe a slight improvement but no fix by any means.
i will change the fuel filter, as well as check the exhaust for bends and kinks from the collision but i'm more than sure it has none as the car was completely repaired.
The car is my only car here at school but i have my girlfriend drive me everywhere so i can keep it in the garage out of harms way. I really want to drive it as little as possible until i get it up on jacks and the problem fixed. But with it taking 3 hours to merely change the plugs i want a general idea of what to try before i pull it apart and put it all back together again.
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated since all 2 mechanics i talked to had no clue where to start beyond plugs.
Last edited by 918Soarer; 09-08-11 at 10:23 AM.
09-08-11, 01:22 PM
#2
you can pull the first few plugs without taking the throttle body/upper intake off.
I would start there it takes maybe 5 minutes to inspect the first 3 plugs, they will give you a good idea about the rest of them. check the cap and rotor, alot of times the rotor gets worn down and no one remembers to check. only use toyota parts for the cap and rotor, and use some good plugs preferably iridium so you dont have to change them for a long time.
I would start there it takes maybe 5 minutes to inspect the first 3 plugs, they will give you a good idea about the rest of them. check the cap and rotor, alot of times the rotor gets worn down and no one remembers to check. only use toyota parts for the cap and rotor, and use some good plugs preferably iridium so you dont have to change them for a long time.
09-09-11, 09:06 PM
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Thanks for the response, when i get my tools this weekend from my parents house ill check it out. This is the first semester I own my own garage so ill be able to rip it apart if needed and it be safe from weather.
And would i be looking to see if the gear is worn down on the roter?
And would i be looking to see if the gear is worn down on the roter?
09-10-11, 09:23 AM
#4
not really a gear on the rotor, its a plastic part under the cap that lifts off the distributor after you remove the 2 screws on it. its what swings around and makes contact with the terminals. so on the end of the rotor arm there will be a small triangular flint looking thing. if it looks badly notched or chipped and isnt smooth, then the gap between that and the cap will be too large and you get a weaker spark since it looses alot of energy in the jump. Notice how it sticks out further than the plastic when new, like this
09-12-11, 11:15 AM
#5
not really a gear on the rotor, its a plastic part under the cap that lifts off the distributor after you remove the 2 screws on it. its what swings around and makes contact with the terminals. so on the end of the rotor arm there will be a small triangular flint looking thing. if it looks badly notched or chipped and isnt smooth, then the gap between that and the cap will be too large and you get a weaker spark since it looses alot of energy in the jump. Notice how it sticks out further than the plastic when new, like this
06-26-12, 10:59 PM
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Hello, so after months of no response on this thread I am back. Good news too i have found and fixed the cause low power. Turns out it was just a fuel pump. If you ask me that seemingly makes no sense. You would think that if the fuel pump was tweakin then there would be no power in the low end and not the top. So for anyone else that has had the same issue try the fuel pump. Saved me a lot of time and money checking it first.
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