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You can't just stick pins 1 and 2 from the ebrake across the relay in parallel like I said to start with because that will just make the relay hot all the time. That was my fault. Brain fart.
Now, what may screw all this up is that you are already somehow telling the ecu that the car is in park, no? So you will probably get the old transmission selector switch malfunction code if you dont break the existing neutral switch fix you already have in place.
i currently just have the trans selector plug bridged (to show PARK) with a wire. so i'll just pull it out.
Yeah that should be good. The only other thing I can see being an issue is whether the ebrake circuit can power a standard relay, or if a low power relay will have to be sourced. That I have no idea about. I do cave man electronics stuff, and I know there are some really smart EE type peeps in here that can refine this plan.
Yeah that should be good. The only other thing I can see being an issue is whether the ebrake circuit can power a standard relay, or if a low power relay will have to be sourced. That I have no idea about. I do cave man electronics stuff, and I know there are some really smart EE type peeps in here that can refine this plan.
the e-brake switch just grounds a normal 12v circuit to power the BRAKE light on the cluster, so it shouldn't require a high sensitivity relay.
the "to dash light" 12v that is supposed to power pin 85 on the relay when the e-brake is pulled up... i do not know where to get that from. inside the cluster, there is a common 12v, and the different grounds trigger the lights. so the e-brake ground triggers the BRAKE light to light up inside the cluster.
so i think this plan may be screwed.
i'm going to let you think about this one, because my brain hurts.
I am not an expert on diodes, but from what I gather, a signal diode can only pass around 100mA of current. I think a standard auto relay needs around 200mA to energize the coil...This is where a qualified EE could really help.
03-07-11, 06:46 PM
