JDM Supra VVTi Engine / v161 / Differential Dropout Complete
02-08-11, 11:18 PM
#1
JDM Supra VVTi Engine / v161 / Differential Dropout Complete
Searched alot on this forum but couldn't find many people that have gone this route.
Car I'm considering this in is my unmolested 94 sc300 5spd
.
Started searching ebay for some GTE motors, then found vvti setups, and then gte motors with v160's, and then this awesome 2000 supra dropout with axles / differential / v161 / vvti gte harness and ecu etc etc.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Supra...item19c2dc3f87
Now I understand that 6800 isn't exactly cost effective, but when you actually price out what these parts would cost by themselves it is actually a good discount. I understand I'd probably have to have dr. tweak do the harness for about $600 bucks but It'd be a killer setup that would more than likely hold it's resale value substantially better than any NA-T route. Then later do a single setup and fuel / ems and I'd have a really stout drivetrain.
Used v160's are like $4k, v161's tend to bring more
6speed diff and axles are like $1200
GTE's are about 1800, but the vvti's are around $2200
Supra brakes and calipers are around $500-600
We are at $8000 in parts when pieced by them self, this complete package is 6800 with everything and he even has a video of the compression check.
Just curious if any of you guys actually went this route when doing the swap to save money because in the long run it looks cheaper to just get everything from a low mileage donor (this one has only 29k miles off a 2000 JDM supra 6spd.) This with the investment of the car could equate to the cost of about 11-12k total and you'd essentially have all the main components of a JDM supra drivetrain / axles / brakes. Minus what you'd get (resale) for your old complete 2jz-ge with 5spd tranny (say 1000.00 complete) and you've got about 10k total invested.
It's late and I'm justifying $7000 parts from random jdm engine sellers
My sc only has 85k miles, and I know I'll eventually want 600+ whp or future goal, just trying to find the most effective route in the long run. I'd love to just buy a TT supra but justifying a 30k car at this point isn't what I'm trying to do with my finances and building one this way would allow me to play and build the car myself which makes it interesting.
Car I'm considering this in is my unmolested 94 sc300 5spd
.Started searching ebay for some GTE motors, then found vvti setups, and then gte motors with v160's, and then this awesome 2000 supra dropout with axles / differential / v161 / vvti gte harness and ecu etc etc.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Supra...item19c2dc3f87
Now I understand that 6800 isn't exactly cost effective, but when you actually price out what these parts would cost by themselves it is actually a good discount. I understand I'd probably have to have dr. tweak do the harness for about $600 bucks but It'd be a killer setup that would more than likely hold it's resale value substantially better than any NA-T route. Then later do a single setup and fuel / ems and I'd have a really stout drivetrain.
Used v160's are like $4k, v161's tend to bring more
6speed diff and axles are like $1200
GTE's are about 1800, but the vvti's are around $2200
Supra brakes and calipers are around $500-600
We are at $8000 in parts when pieced by them self, this complete package is 6800 with everything and he even has a video of the compression check.
Just curious if any of you guys actually went this route when doing the swap to save money because in the long run it looks cheaper to just get everything from a low mileage donor (this one has only 29k miles off a 2000 JDM supra 6spd.) This with the investment of the car could equate to the cost of about 11-12k total and you'd essentially have all the main components of a JDM supra drivetrain / axles / brakes. Minus what you'd get (resale) for your old complete 2jz-ge with 5spd tranny (say 1000.00 complete) and you've got about 10k total invested.
It's late and I'm justifying $7000 parts from random jdm engine sellers
My sc only has 85k miles, and I know I'll eventually want 600+ whp or future goal, just trying to find the most effective route in the long run. I'd love to just buy a TT supra but justifying a 30k car at this point isn't what I'm trying to do with my finances and building one this way would allow me to play and build the car myself which makes it interesting.
Last edited by HiPSI; 02-08-11 at 11:35 PM.
02-09-11, 12:20 AM
#2
I have to tell you man... that's a GREAT deal. It's super rare to find a JDM dropout that has the larger USDM style "TT" brakes as those were an option in Japan, and not one too typically ordered for whatever reason. Your price guesses are very conservative, and you left some things out.
What looks to be a VERY clean VVT-i motor- $2200-$2300
v161- $4000 is about right, BUT add on the shifter, mount, and tripod for another $400.
Power steering resevoir- RARE to have on a JDM GTE. $150
Front TT Brakes- $400
REAR TT Brakes- $400
6 speed pumpkin and axles- $1500. I sold a 6 speed rear end... it went for $1500 like it was a fire sale
Full driveshaft- $200 maybe?
CONTROL ARMS!!- $500 at least
Front mounts- $50?
Front subframe- $150
Rack and Pinion- $120ish
So all in you're looking at over $10k of parts. If you have the cash DO IT
What looks to be a VERY clean VVT-i motor- $2200-$2300
v161- $4000 is about right, BUT add on the shifter, mount, and tripod for another $400.
Power steering resevoir- RARE to have on a JDM GTE. $150
Front TT Brakes- $400
REAR TT Brakes- $400
6 speed pumpkin and axles- $1500. I sold a 6 speed rear end... it went for $1500 like it was a fire sale
Full driveshaft- $200 maybe?
CONTROL ARMS!!- $500 at least
Front mounts- $50?
Front subframe- $150
Rack and Pinion- $120ish
So all in you're looking at over $10k of parts. If you have the cash DO IT
02-09-11, 01:14 AM
#3
I have to tell you man... that's a GREAT deal. It's super rare to find a JDM dropout that has the larger USDM style "TT" brakes as those were an option in Japan, and not one too typically ordered for whatever reason. Your price guesses are very conservative, and you left some things out.
What looks to be a VERY clean VVT-i motor- $2200-$2300
v161- $4000 is about right, BUT add on the shifter, mount, and tripod for another $400.
Power steering resevoir- RARE to have on a JDM GTE. $150
Front TT Brakes- $400
REAR TT Brakes- $400
6 speed pumpkin and axles- $1500. I sold a 6 speed rear end... it went for $1500 like it was a fire sale
Full driveshaft- $200 maybe?
CONTROL ARMS!!- $500 at least
Front mounts- $50?
Front subframe- $150
Rack and Pinion- $120ish
So all in you're looking at over $10k of parts. If you have the cash DO IT
What looks to be a VERY clean VVT-i motor- $2200-$2300
v161- $4000 is about right, BUT add on the shifter, mount, and tripod for another $400.
Power steering resevoir- RARE to have on a JDM GTE. $150
Front TT Brakes- $400
REAR TT Brakes- $400
6 speed pumpkin and axles- $1500. I sold a 6 speed rear end... it went for $1500 like it was a fire sale
Full driveshaft- $200 maybe?
CONTROL ARMS!!- $500 at least
Front mounts- $50?
Front subframe- $150
Rack and Pinion- $120ish
So all in you're looking at over $10k of parts. If you have the cash DO IT
v161 goes for the exact same price as a v160, same strength, different gearing. 3-3.5k
That's the weaker late model jdm 6spd differential equivalent to usdm auto differential. It's no better than a GS400 differential + torsen lsd and torsen lsds suck.
The subframes are worthless because you don't need them.
USED control arms are not worth it IMO.
Rack and pinion is useless because it's RHD.
Driveshaft won't bolt up, needs to be extended.
The engine is missing the MAF so add an extra 330 + overnight shipping from japan.
Icing on the cake, look at the ECU harness, someone was running a boost controller.
Still need the radiator, shroud, water pump, timing belt, fuel pump, spark plugs, shift ****, intercooler list goes on ... to do the swap right. Total if you pay dr. tweek to do the harness is probably going to be close to 10k.
FYI it's only the early model TTs that didn't come with the 4/2 brakes, most of the late models did.
Last edited by account2x; 02-09-11 at 02:36 AM.
02-09-11, 04:22 AM
#4
If you have the cash and are willing to do it, go for it. Matter of fact I'll give you a grand right now for your motor/tranny in your car, and the maf will not cost you anywhere close to that. Use a late model 1uz maf, or usdm gte supra. Easy.
Edit: there are other ways to skin this cat too. Jzx100 ecu and a non-dbw throttle body using the harness that comes with the swap you might buy. Gets rid of the trac-control/dbw gayness.
Also, why would the drive shaft need to be extended? Which part? Is it possible you could just mate the front half of the jza80 with the stock jzz30 rear half? I don't know much about soarer/supra stuff, but do know a little about Toyota.
Edit: there are other ways to skin this cat too. Jzx100 ecu and a non-dbw throttle body using the harness that comes with the swap you might buy. Gets rid of the trac-control/dbw gayness.
Also, why would the drive shaft need to be extended? Which part? Is it possible you could just mate the front half of the jza80 with the stock jzz30 rear half? I don't know much about soarer/supra stuff, but do know a little about Toyota.
Last edited by Vrank; 02-09-11 at 05:04 AM.
02-09-11, 05:47 AM
#7
gte & na-t
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You will need a driveshaft custum, seriously it all depend on what you want at the end of the day it's your car you will be driving it you must be happy with it.
I did a exact swap for one of the fellow members and seriously he regretted after spending about $9-10k and still not making 400Rwhp stock twins were blown maybe 2 weeks later.
Again do what you think will make you happy.
The only thing i would get is the diff and trans the rest of the parts you already have on your car lol.
You wanna spend $9K and make 600hp or $12k and make same 600hp, $7000.00 is alot of money spend it wisely
I did a exact swap for one of the fellow members and seriously he regretted after spending about $9-10k and still not making 400Rwhp stock twins were blown maybe 2 weeks later.
Again do what you think will make you happy.
The only thing i would get is the diff and trans the rest of the parts you already have on your car lol.
You wanna spend $9K and make 600hp or $12k and make same 600hp, $7000.00 is alot of money spend it wisely
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02-09-11, 06:19 AM
#8
No one here has jzz30 driveshafts.
jzz31 uses jza80 NA style driveshaft. radically different from TT.
non vvt-i uzz30 uses the TT jza80 style driveshaft but i don't think the splines would mate and even if they did the rear end ratio would be off.
vvt-i uzz30 has the best chance of bolting up with the jza80 front half and would allow you to use the correct rear end ratio but those shafts are pretty hard to find. you'd also be limited to the inferior sized differential (as seen in the pictures above). aliga might have one or two.
Last edited by account2x; 02-09-11 at 06:24 AM.
02-09-11, 06:34 AM
#9
gte & na-t
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z3x has 5.5 inch longer wheelbase than a80.
No one here has jzz30 driveshafts.
jzz31 uses jza80 NA style driveshaft. radically different from TT.
non vvt-i uzz30 uses the TT jza80 style driveshaft but i don't think the splines would mate and even if they did the rear end ratio would be off.
vvt-i uzz30 has the best chance of bolting up with the jza80 front half and would allow you to use the correct rear end ratio but those shafts are pretty hard to find. you'd also be limited to the inferior sized differential (as seen in the pictures above). aliga might have one or two.
No one here has jzz30 driveshafts.
jzz31 uses jza80 NA style driveshaft. radically different from TT.
non vvt-i uzz30 uses the TT jza80 style driveshaft but i don't think the splines would mate and even if they did the rear end ratio would be off.
vvt-i uzz30 has the best chance of bolting up with the jza80 front half and would allow you to use the correct rear end ratio but those shafts are pretty hard to find. you'd also be limited to the inferior sized differential (as seen in the pictures above). aliga might have one or two.
I have 9 or 10 different toyota and lexus DS and it didn't work.
02-09-11, 06:37 AM
#10
alternatively for an auto swap use the supra tt auto front half instead of the 6spd one?
Last edited by account2x; 02-09-11 at 06:41 AM.
02-09-11, 06:49 AM
#11
gte & na-t
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Using the GS400 rear which is the same as the 98-00SC4 and SC430/GS430 the pinion flange wasn't the issue the length on the DS itself.
It doesn't matter what king of diff or flange you use on the SC you will need a custum driveshaft.
The auto swap you just use the SC4 drive shaft the Supra front half is too short again, i went thru all this crap that's how i knew i even took some measurements...
It doesn't matter what king of diff or flange you use on the SC you will need a custum driveshaft.
The auto swap you just use the SC4 drive shaft the Supra front half is too short again, i went thru all this crap that's how i knew i even took some measurements...
02-09-11, 06:56 AM
#12
Ya I get that. That's why I am asking if you tried to use the the 98-00 SC400 DS? It's the right length from the middle bearing assembly to the smaller size differential. Ergo the only way it won't work is if it physically doesn't mate to the supra TT front shaft (auto or 6spd depending on the swap).
02-09-11, 07:09 AM
#13
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I used the SC400 diff, SC4 rear half and Supra 6 speed front half it was 4 inches shorter.
I used the GS300 rear half with Supra front still to short, i tried different stuff and it didn't work.
You use SC4 rear half and Supra 6sp front half and getting extended or whatever to make it fit.
I used the GS300 rear half with Supra front still to short, i tried different stuff and it didn't work.
You use SC4 rear half and Supra 6sp front half and getting extended or whatever to make it fit.
02-09-11, 08:07 AM
#15
I used the SC400 diff, SC4 rear half and Supra 6 speed front half it was 4 inches shorter.
I used the GS300 rear half with Supra front still to short, i tried different stuff and it didn't work.
You use SC4 rear half and Supra 6sp front half and getting extended or whatever to make it fit.
I used the GS300 rear half with Supra front still to short, i tried different stuff and it didn't work.
You use SC4 rear half and Supra 6sp front half and getting extended or whatever to make it fit.
For example let's say you are swapping in a tt auto transmission and differential. Get the tt auto front ds half. It HAS to be the correct length from the transmission to the bearing assembly. Then get the 98SC400 rear ds half. It HAS to be the correct length from the bearing assembly to the diff.
The only way they wouldn't work is if the splines don't mate at the bearing assembly.
Last edited by account2x; 02-09-11 at 08:11 AM.
