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Trying to pass smog in CA

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Old 01-26-11, 04:39 PM
  #16  
cyde01
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update:

i had both front o2 sensors replaced with brand new units, the car still failed. the cats should be colder on the upstream end than on the downstream end, but they are actually hotter on the upstream end so they are not functioning properly. my mechanic said there's a chance that after running with the replaced o2 sensors that the cat may start to unclog and function properly, but most likely i'm gonna need to replace all three cats. i most definitely cannot afford oem cats. so..

my mechanic said he was actually able to find legal non-oe cats that require cutting and welding. he quoted me $450 for parts and installation. i'm guessing they're magnaflow cats?

i have also found supposedly ca legal cats made by a brand called "benchmark" that are direct fits and go for $190 for the fronts, $250 for the rear. magnaflow weld in units go for $80 for the fronts and $90 for the rear. then there's the link that brad posted with direct fits from a brand called DEC for $168. these are the only brands i found that claim to be CA legal.

so, with all that said, this is my question. does anyone here have experience with cats made by any of these brands? the direct fit types look appealing to me but i wasn't able to find any info on the web or user reviews for "benchmark" or "DEC." by CA legal, how legal are they? do they have CARB EO #s? do they last a reasonably long time before they stop working?

Last edited by cyde01; 01-26-11 at 04:42 PM.
Old 01-26-11, 07:03 PM
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I have neither experience with these brands. I would either buy from a local muffler shop cause they will supply you with the correct CAT(most of the time if they're a legit muffler shop) or buy one on line but make sure its the right one for your car.

I would replace the rear CAT first then get it tested just to see if that did the job. This will save you $$$$. Sometimes I see cars pass with just one replaced CAT. If the converter is a really good one, you should pass. I dont recommend a high flow cat. They dont usually last long.

An aftermarket converter should last you 2 inspections, about 4 years. GOOD LUCK, let us know how things go..
Old 02-08-11, 12:57 PM
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cyde01
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update: so there aren't any cops on this forum are there?

so anyway i ended up buying the benchmark branded direct fit cats, both fronts and the rear. the packaging was labeled 50 state legal with a carb eo #.



however, something was a little fishy. i did not see the "benchmark" logo or brand on any of the packaging.


in fact, the logo was suspiciously hidden by a white piece of paper. removing the tape with the white paper revealed a DEC logo.


i'm starting to understand why these are not sold at regular well known outlets like Kragen or Amazon or why my mechanic could not purchase these parts for me. however i am not going to post my suspicions here on a public forum. pm me if you want to know what i'm talking about.






the carb eo is etched into the surface of the cats. as far as if it's a quality part or not, i don't know and won't know for a while, but i suspect that it will be able to pass emissions. my mechanic is still installing them so i'll post again once it's done and i've taken the car for a re-test. i tried looking up the company and found they have a website. they are located in van nuys lol. http://www.deccats.com/flash/index.html
Old 02-08-11, 01:02 PM
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brad11140
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How much did the front cats run you?
Old 02-08-11, 01:08 PM
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cyde01
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190 each. so a little more than your link but for some reason the website on your link kept saying they were receiving heavy traffic every time i clicked on it

update: i called the manufacturer and they assured me that it's a legitimately legal part. the eo# does check out. they acquired the company that owned the benchmark name so they are the same company. regardless i highly doubt that i would fail visual anyway.

update 2: just called my mechanic. you definitely get what you pay for. the parts are in fact cheap, gaskets they came with are cheap, certain angles in the piping and holes for the o2 sensors are a little off. but, according to my mechanic, it's not like they are total shiz. they just have fitment issues due to cheap manufacturing. but according to them once they can get them on just right they should work fine.

update 3: car passed smog with flying colors!!!!!!!!! so while the parts have fitment issues due to cheap manufacturing for the price they do get the job done. the manufacturer warranty is for 5 years so hopefully they'll last at least one more smog test. thanks to everyone here for all your help. i guess i didn't introduce myself, i live in OC, love sports cars and have always been a fan of toyota/lexus. i drove an s2000 previously, decided to go with the sc400 cuz i was tired of making payments and the high insurance. happy with the car so far but i do miss driving manual. here's a cheesy vid of me checking out the LFA at cars and coffee in irvine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwKNsClpH5o

Last edited by cyde01; 02-08-11 at 04:17 PM.
Old 02-08-11, 06:27 PM
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Congrats on passing your Smog inspection and welcome to ClubLexus from another OCer
Old 02-09-11, 11:23 AM
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thanks dude!
Old 02-13-11, 01:09 AM
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Iit Should Pass Visual!
Old 02-24-12, 08:01 PM
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I wonder if this is something that happened to you in the past. I own a '92 Lexus SC300 with 288K mi. I have no problem, performance issues, no CEL, whatsoever except it failed the smog requirements here in California. As per the SMOG VIR, Visual: PASS, Functional: PASS, Emissions tests: FAIL.
HC (PPM) CO (%) NO (PPM)
181 0.17 746
96 0.01 1059

I gambled by simply replacing the front cat (by the exhaust manifold with V style pipe). Unable to find a suitable replacement (aftermarket) I replaced it using a stock (OEM) cat with P/N 17450-46010 along with 3 brand new gaskets totaling almost $500.00. I then took it back to the Smog shop, same guy who did the Tests just recently. Knowing I would fail again, he quit testing and said it might be one of the sensors. So I decided to take it to one of the shops. The mechanic tested the EGR and it tested OK. He said try replacing the O2 sensor by the Bank 1 first and perform Smog check again. So I ordered (1 of 2) sensors worth $250 but this time without the new gasket. Perhaps I should order one also just to be sure. I understand that I should replace both cats and both O2 sensors but it will cost me $1,760 plus tax if I order the other cat. It takes about 3 business days to do a special order. Anyway, are my troubleshooting efforts here acceptable? By using the built-in Diagnostic tool inside the engine bay useful for this kind of trouble? My thanks in advance.
Old 04-24-12, 02:51 PM
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I guess it's my turn to chime in on this subject matter...I just went to the smog station today and my car (95 SC300) failed miserably. I passed HC and CO just fine...However, it was my NO (PPM) that failed miserably...Max allowed was 479 at 15mph and my car was doing 885! at 25 mph, Max allowed was 487 my car was doing 913!

I sure hope it's just the cats.
Old 04-24-12, 03:30 PM
  #26  
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man.... i hate smog stuff... but i glad that my car just recent passed woot..
Old 04-24-12, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CrazySC300
I guess it's my turn to chime in on this subject matter...I just went to the smog station today and my car (95 SC300) failed miserably. I passed HC and CO just fine...However, it was my NO (PPM) that failed miserably...Max allowed was 479 at 15mph and my car was doing 885! at 25 mph, Max allowed was 487 my car was doing 913!

I sure hope it's just the cats.
Does your car have EGR? If it does, chances are, it's not working properly. Post up the FULL readings including The MIN/MAX, O2%, CO2% and etc. I can help you out.
Old 04-28-12, 07:02 PM
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Ugh! Failed again! This time, my NO PPM numbers were higher after putting the new cat converter (Front) on...

I'll post my results see if anyone here knows what's up....

NO PPM: 1105 (479 Max @ 15 mph)
1013 (487 Max @ 25 mph)

CO (%): 0.04 (0.33 Max @ 15mph)
0.03 (0.31 Max @ 25mph)

HC (PPM): 9 (57 Max @ 15mph)
9 (33 Max @ 25mph)

% CO2 measured 14.6 (1803 RPM @ 15mph)
14.5 (1813 RPM @ 25mph)

Car doesn't overheat,New cat was installed, EGR supposedly checks out fine,No check engine light (So o2 sensors should be okay) and I STILL failed.

Any ideas guys? Thanks!
Car is a '95 SC300 with Automatic transmission.
Old 04-28-12, 08:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CrazySC300
Ugh! Failed again! This time, my NO PPM numbers were higher after putting the new cat converter (Front) on...

I'll post my results see if anyone here knows what's up....

NO PPM: 1105 (479 Max @ 15 mph)
1013 (487 Max @ 25 mph)

CO (%): 0.04 (0.33 Max @ 15mph)
0.03 (0.31 Max @ 25mph)

HC (PPM): 9 (57 Max @ 15mph)
9 (33 Max @ 25mph)

% CO2 measured 14.6 (1803 RPM @ 15mph)
14.5 (1813 RPM @ 25mph)

Car doesn't overheat,New cat was installed, EGR supposedly checks out fine,No check engine light (So o2 sensors should be okay) and I STILL failed.

Any ideas guys? Thanks!
Car is a '95 SC300 with Automatic transmission.
New cats were installed? What are the E.O.#? They should be D-562-64, D-280-83, D-280-78, any of those would be the C.A.R.B. Approved CAT for your vehicle.

As for the emission numbers, your car is working properly as it should. The only thing is your NOX control emission device is not doing it's job. That is your EGR system. It consist of 3 things, the EGR VSV, EGR Modulator, and EGR. How does the EGR works? Any time there's a load, the PCM turns on the solenoid EGR VSV by giving ground, which allows vacuum to flow from the VSV to the EGR Modulator. Then the EGR Modulator controls the amount and frequency of vacuum sent to the EGR valve. Then the EGR valve opens and introduces the "already burned burned exhaust gas" directly into the intake passages which will dilute the burning process in the combustion camber and at the same time cool down the combustion camber, hence, reduces NOX (aby product of heat).

Now to test the EGR system, you must test the EGR VSV first. when you apply ground to the circuit or just rev the engine (giving it a load, PCM will automatically turn on the VSV), you should feel vacuum coming out of the port. It has 2 ports, one connects to the intake manifold and other goes to the EGR modulator. Now when you apply ground or rev the engine, you should feel suction (vacuum) from the port that goes to the EGR modulator. That confirms that the VSV is properly working. Next would be the EGR modulator, to check if that's working, disconnect the vacuum line that goes to the EGR. Rev the engine to 2500 rpm up and down, you should feel the suction from the vacuum line going to the EGR. If not, that EGR modulator is leaking or defective. Next would be the EGR. To test, get a vacuum gauge and apply vacuum, it should stumble and almost stall. If it doesn't, either you got a stuck closed EGR or restricted EGR port.

After you get your EGR system all properly working, it should pass smog no problem.

Hope that helps.
Old 04-28-12, 08:41 PM
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^^^ good info. I need to smog my car in the next week or two


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