2JZGTE Swap vs NA/T Build
01-04-11, 05:12 PM
#32
For non DIYers the biggest factor is usually labor cost and how familiar the mechanic is with either set up (since supervision will be rather minimal). Some shops may charge a ton but offer a quality turn key swap, others may do it pretty cheap but reliability/tuning may suffer. Best advice would be to find a place you trust to do the work correctly within your budget.
That being said... A modest and reliable NA-T set up can be had for 2500-3k in parts. You end up spending about the same amount on parts either way, more if you ever decide to go single on the gte (you need all the supporting parts that would have been purchased during the NA-T build). The GS guys even have a turn key kit (with pretuned FIC) being developed by a CL member. There's no real easy solution and many members on here can attest to that after going thru various motors and builds. Best advice would be to plan for spending more than your innitial budget.
That being said... A modest and reliable NA-T set up can be had for 2500-3k in parts. You end up spending about the same amount on parts either way, more if you ever decide to go single on the gte (you need all the supporting parts that would have been purchased during the NA-T build). The GS guys even have a turn key kit (with pretuned FIC) being developed by a CL member. There's no real easy solution and many members on here can attest to that after going thru various motors and builds. Best advice would be to plan for spending more than your innitial budget.
01-05-11, 12:28 PM
#35
gte & na-t
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Maybe the guy who is selling it also wanted a cheap and reliable na-T set up under 3k and it wasnt as reliable as he thought so he is selling it for a GTE swap ! who knows maybe that's what happen
A reliable na-T is not cheap unless you get the parts for free haha, there are so many things that will need to be address.
I know what am talking about ,I can't do an Na-t for less than 3k and expect it to be reliable.
I am not against the Op going na-T lol I am one of the die hard Na-t guys on here i learned the hard way.
I refuse to buy a GTE swap, But remember na-T is not for everyone on here.
Let him get a GTE and just ride on the stock ecu and not worry about anything since he just want 350hp.
01-05-11, 01:12 PM
#36
^^ The seller did get a GTE and trust me I been collecting parts for a bit and when I think I am ready to slap on the kit on I hold back to get something different or something better. I understand what you are saying and to do it correctly it takes time to do it a good price or it takes more money to get it done fast and have it working correctly.
I think a lot of people NA-t or not always chase the GTE for the same reason why people are into the new or cool thing to do. Just like the ipad/pod/phone, many android os users or so on... not saying they aren't cool or good or bad but the same mentality. For example I had a windows os phone like 7 years ago and I loved it but everyone was saying it was too big. Now the current phones are the same size or bigger then my phone 7 years ago and it's cool. The difference between my phone back then and now are minor other then hardware speed. Just like the ge and gte, minor differences but people will always claim one is god to everything else when it's very similar.
I think a lot of people NA-t or not always chase the GTE for the same reason why people are into the new or cool thing to do. Just like the ipad/pod/phone, many android os users or so on... not saying they aren't cool or good or bad but the same mentality. For example I had a windows os phone like 7 years ago and I loved it but everyone was saying it was too big. Now the current phones are the same size or bigger then my phone 7 years ago and it's cool. The difference between my phone back then and now are minor other then hardware speed. Just like the ge and gte, minor differences but people will always claim one is god to everything else when it's very similar.
01-05-11, 01:52 PM
#37
01-05-11, 03:16 PM
#38
payed off some cc's, saved up for a down, BHG, waiting for parts to come in, and umm being a little lazy. LOL I just need to get my FFIM and I will be set. I don't want to do it over and over again. So I rebuilt my spare ge and sent off the the head to get a valve job and get my cams to get installed and that's where I am now. Pending on the head to come back and pending on the FFIM.
01-05-11, 03:38 PM
#39
This seems to be a huge debate with the 2jz platform. The fact of the matter is it doesn't matter which route you take, generally the end result is all that matters and how much money it took you to get there.
What most don't realize is the boost bug doesn't just stop at 350whp
, and then you progress to 400whp-450whp-500whp-->>etc etc it's just the nature of the beast. So why not skip step 1, 2, and 3 and start modding with the future goal that you will want more power later.
However this is assuming your stock GE is in good shape. If your stock motor is hurting a GTE swap will kill two birds with one stone. Or you can have the stock bottom end upgraded/ refreshed with GTE internals and have the piece of mind that it's fresh and new.
At 450whp it doesn't matter whether your GTE or GE, the mods are the same:
FMIC
Upgraded fuel system
Cams
EMS of some sort, piggy back starts getting sketchy or more room for error
ARP Head studs / Headgasket
Large Single setup
r154 or v160 / w/ upgraded clutch
Auto or 6spd Rear end
3"-4" full turboback of your liking
GE might need a FFIM to make the setup more efficient but most GTE guys eventually go this route with an upgraded sheet metal intake manifold and larger throttle body
What most don't realize is the boost bug doesn't just stop at 350whp
, and then you progress to 400whp-450whp-500whp-->>etc etc it's just the nature of the beast. So why not skip step 1, 2, and 3 and start modding with the future goal that you will want more power later.However this is assuming your stock GE is in good shape. If your stock motor is hurting a GTE swap will kill two birds with one stone. Or you can have the stock bottom end upgraded/ refreshed with GTE internals and have the piece of mind that it's fresh and new.
At 450whp it doesn't matter whether your GTE or GE, the mods are the same:
FMIC
Upgraded fuel system
Cams
EMS of some sort, piggy back starts getting sketchy or more room for error
ARP Head studs / Headgasket
Large Single setup
r154 or v160 / w/ upgraded clutch
Auto or 6spd Rear end
3"-4" full turboback of your liking
GE might need a FFIM to make the setup more efficient but most GTE guys eventually go this route with an upgraded sheet metal intake manifold and larger throttle body
01-06-12, 07:33 PM
#41
Driver School Candidate
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hey guys, im some what the same boat when it comes to swapping in the 2jzgte into my 97' sc, im sitting on 9k for my swap, im going for the auto b/c my wife drives it aswell lol ive herd the stock tranny can hold 400hp reliably, in the future i want to go with the Boost Logic Supra TT Auto Upgrade Transmission if it can fit into my SC. but while i have the stock AT, what upgrades should i got with to put down 350-400whp? im still a noob at all this stuff guys.!
Last edited by Suplex432; 01-06-12 at 08:24 PM. Reason: did not complete my post
01-07-12, 10:34 AM
#42
I have 350 hp, thru an auto, for way less than 3k and ive got nearly 20k on my car since I boosted it. Runs great as far as Im concerned. Stick with the stock engine, go NA-T and be done with it. My build thread details the XSpower kit install and Ive had zero troubles with it.
01-09-12, 08:33 AM
#45
Lexus Test Driver
Don't waste your money on a gte..its the same bottom end. Go NA-T with a GTE headgasket. A lot less wiring, run a little more boost, easy 350-400. I'm going to do a whole GE NAT build and I'm shooting for 700.