VIPcarter

Hello everyone,
I just recently joined this forum with intent to get as much information about these cars as possible. So while I was sitting here, trying to figure out, what I'd ideally like to do with an SC, naturally a turbo (or two), MKIV Coils and fitted rims were among the first thought of me even getting this car.

Don't get me wrong, I could do without a turbo, but for how long is the question. Automatically Na-t came to mind, Nice! 320rwhp at roughly 7-10psi sounds like a wonderful project to me but the SC being an auto, doesn't hold water to me. (Auto to Manual swap )

1JZ swap,
Sounds appealing. 2.5 liters of toyota goodness backed with ceramic wheels that are only good for 14psi... Every swap has its ups and downs, this would be my down, as I'd like to produce 400rwhp in any project with room for improvement with not having to improve much.

I can acquire a 1jz locally for $750, which in turn doesn't sound bad to me personally because I live in Ohio and haven't been around too many peoples with as much interest in going fast in a toyota as I do. That are actually local

The next response could be go single, as 1jz's didn't come single outside of the vvt-i, I'd rather not go single. So lets take a step up...

2JZ-GTE, Now speaking my language 3 liters of go fast yota, with c12b twins good for 16psi and torque. This would fit my goal I like it... we'll the thought of it, but here is where my questions lay.

If the 2J-GE block is the same minus oil squirters and GTE Pistons & Rods (if i remember right), why not drop the GTE head on GE bottom end?
Pro Replacing the GE manifold & piping that runs across the motor and shorting the IC piping by the GTE manifold.
Con GE head flows slightly better then GTE head... I believe I can deal with that, always be ported & polished.

My thoughts on parts that would be needed,
2JZ-GTE head w/manifolds, twins & sensors, wiring harness and USDM ECU
Oil Sandwich or plate or drill & tap the ge block
This is the part I hope you guys can help me fill in

Ideally why swap to a GTE, when the only difference in the GE is the "T" and oil squirters. Is my thought

I don't have hands on experience with either of the motors, its more of an idea I had trying to figure out what would be the best way to go about having a stout turbo'ed SC with 400rwhp(or)+

As far as prices go, I haven't looked into it, I would think it could be a lil cheaper then swapping a full gte in but I'm not a 100% sure.

I been google searching to see what I could come up with, either I'm completely retarded and overlooked it or Its been starring me in the face the whole time.

So if anyone has the answer to my question thanks, I'll take ideas and comments as long as its not bashing me for asking a question.

VIPcarter

Thanks everyone for the input, I found the info via sf.

imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

i know you said you got your info but ill throw out a little myself..

the head swap really isnt worth it imo.
the amount it would cost to do that piecing things together would cost just as much as buying the entire swap(can be found from 1500-2000)
essentially you will still have to do everything that installing the entire motor when doing the head swap since like said the bottom ends are that much different.

the possibility of na-t is a good cheap choice..you already have the motor all you need is a turbo kit..you do have a dist. and a cross over IM but each can be changed if you need for less money then it would cost to go GTE.

also you can buy a TT hg and lower your compression to allow for ~17+ psi on 93 oct. ..giving you the ability to hit upwards of 500whp

so basically if your GE engine is in good shape..use it..if not then consider a swap
either way its best to go single turbo on any of the three choices(the ceramic turbo's dont last very long) ..so you'll need pretty much an entire turbo kit with any of the three..with the ge you already have the engine installed..swap hg and maybe arp head studs for added insurance and install a turbo kit and ur ready for 300+ whp..upgrade fuel/tranny and get ur 400whp

either way tranny will need to be touched to get 400whp reliably (w58 are said to handle this much power but some have broke on less)

and fuel will probably be needed to be touched on either engine as well..possibly not the 2jzgte since it has 440cc it probably can do 400whp but i think ud be close to maxing them out and would be best to upgrade if you went any higher..

just somethings to consider ..

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

There are a few threads about bolting a GTE head to a GE block.
It is a great starting point. 2jz-gte heads are expensive and thats the main reason its less common. for the price of a gte head, you can buy a front facing intake manifold.
If you can run the gte head and dont mind installing the Gte oil pump and crank sensor and do the wiring, then its definately a good option.

I did want to correct that the GTE head does in fact flow better than the GE head. it is really marginal though, and after a port both have the same potential, its really a matter of the cam sensor setups and the intake manifold that really counts when choosing 2J heads. and lets not forget about a 2jz-ge vvti head, which has a better cam pickup like the GTE.

imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

^ from the graph ive seen..the gte head flows more on the Intake while the ge does better on exhaust.

VIPcarter

Thanks for sharing man,
I'm keeping options open but I deff like the idea of twins. I'd like to think i'd be able to make 500rwhp on stock twins with a higher CR. I could be way off, but it sounds appealing to me

As far as tranny's go, If I'm gonna turbo the ge. A W58 is deff not gonna work, so i'd deff be going with an R154 since the 6 Speed is ungodly expensive and doesn't seem worth it for the money.

Either way I go about it, I'm not touching the motor in the sc till I have all the parts in front of my face and ready to go.

The idea I had was a slow build, picking up another Ge bottom end and gathering parts. I was gonna browse through a couple forums and see what I could come up with price wish. Because the idea was finding someone thats about to go single and collect parts that way.

I thought about swapping a vvti gte head, but from what I hear its not that fun to tune. I don't know, I'm gonna keep options open.

I figured a na-tt swap would be a little cheaper then going na-t or full gte swap. But with either 3 has its pros and cons, I'm just trying to figure out what would be the cheapest to do. Don't get me wrong, or misunderstand what I'm saying. I'm just looking for a cheap way to turbo the SC and put down around 400rwhp with room for improvement, if I need more then that.

I'm still far off from even starting a project, Maintenance, a couple small DIY projects, Coils & wheels are at the top of my list of things I'd like to do before I start performance. As this will be my DD for now until I gather the funds to pick up another DD.

As for as tips you'd like to give me for maintenance on the GE, I'll take what ya got.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

This is easy. 1jz Auto. Will do 350-380hp on ct12a ceramic turbos and upgraded fuel system.

The a340 trans will hold around 500hp. If it's a daily, and you are only going in a straight line (mostly) auto all day.

If you are a cool guy, and absolutely *have* to shift, spend more money.

Better, and cheaper then rebuilding the 2jzge and trans, or doing the 2jzgte.

1250 shipped for my 1jz package. Do it!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

if you don't care about the overhead intake manifold or the looks of the GTE head, just strap a single turbo onto your ge, drop in a fuel pump and/or injectors and run like 9 psi with a piggyback or a gte ecu (i always recommend standalone but you said you wanted most inexpensive).

I did that setup at first and it was pretty fun, with plenty of room to upgrade later.
As for maintanence, you can do the timing belt/waterpump job which requires replacing most of the gaskets anyways. Headgasket is recommended above 8-14 psi depending on your ecu, as i have seen some AEM setups pushing 14 but that may not be safe with an safc.
At first I boosted 11 psi on an unopened ge with 135k on it with typical oil leaks.
Didn't even phase it one bit pulled hard to redline everytime. Later I did the headgasket but for under 400hp its more fun to use the higher compression GE.. at least off the line.

VIPcarter

1jz auto, that would be interesting. The whole idea is, bpu on twin turbo and from whats been said ct12a's won't hold up past 14psi (350ish). Now, we come the fun part, because I don't see gaining 100rwhp in 4psi (could be wrongs), the only thing left to do is go single. Which if that was the case, why not just na-t or actually find someone thats going single on a 2jz?

As far as better, I wouldn't call 1j better then an Aristo 2j. USDM MKIV 2j's are a little different

I am a cool guy and I do feel I must shift so I don't really favor auto's all though if i feel i gotta have a turbo, it is an idea

Thanks for adding your 2 cents tho, I can pickup a 1J for $750 if not cheaper. Its just the fact regardless I'd have to go single if I went with a 1J to meet the rwhp goal I have in mind.

TLDriver

iTrader: (4)

or... you can do a 1.5jz slap the 1jz on the 2jz block and you get c.o.p. and the FFIM. You might get the same HP as the 1jz (doubt it but might) but get more torque and that will bring you joy.

VIPcarter

That would be an idea over doing a full 1j swap. But what would the cost look like?

imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

^ once again itd be easiest to buy a full 1jz swap since u need everything minus the block for this..then u can sell the block ..
its really hard to do head swaps on these motors because the entire swaps are already so cheap and u need basically everything as far as wiring ecu head turbos etc etc..by the time you find all the parts and pay shipping etc u pay more then you would for a complete swap that comes with all that...

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

You can do the head swap, that's what i was going to do at some point a couple of months ago.
Going with the 2JZGTE head will cost me less money than going FFIM yeah less money, it all depend on who you know! and how much spare parts you have!
The GTE head sells anywhere from $400 to $900, you still need the cams , intake manifold, IACV, TPS, TB, Fuel rail if you wanna stay with stock injectors.

I think the cheapest will be the 1.5JZ since you can buy the Head for almost to nothing really.
You can built a 1.5 for a really cheap price, seriously cheap.I just finished with my friend
MK4 Supra with the 1.6JZ lol it's 3.1L Block with 2.5L Head i am waiting to see what it does on the Dyno.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

1J head needs work on it just to keep up with a 2J head flow wise. Once you add it up you might as well just get a 2jz-gte head unless you have a 1jz head laying around.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

You are correct my friend, I forgot someone local was giving me a Fully complete 1JZ head for free lol with intake, TB, Fuel rail all i needed to find was the sensors. But i didn't wanna downgrade lol so i just let it go.
Yes the 2jz flow more and better, the 1JZ EXh and Int port are so small, the Valves are so small compare the 2JZ.

Yes i compared them side by side, we had installed 2JZGTE Ferrea 1MM Over into the 1JZ head lol.Yes 2jZ 1mm over ON both SIDE.


But if you're not looking for Hwy monster the 1JZ stock head,and valves will make plenty of power.


OP what is your power Goal anyway?