3UZFTE

I like thought processes that don't usually fall in line with the basic ideas. This has, however, been kicked around a few times on a few different boards, and several times here on CL. If you don't mind, I would like to throw my hat into the ring and add my .02 and see if it helps out a bit. The deal with Saab is that both banks have turbos, so essentially they both have similar exhaust back pressures, whereas an NA and FI bank will have 2 totally different pressures causing very different operating conditions. The spark and fuel timing events will all vary greatly depending on the usage as well. The difference being that a healthy NA motor loves timing, and a fire breathing FI engine needs to retard the timing in order to prevent detonation as boost pressure starts to build. This is just school for thought, but basically you would need to have two different ignition setups or program a standalone to add timing for the NA bank and remove timing for the FI bank.

Like someone mentioned above, it's like putting on super side wheels on the rear, but running spares up front. Unless your drag racing and other rare instances, the setup is practically useless.

My thought is that if your going to the trouble to build a single manifold to feed into a small single, you may as well pipe the opposite side manifold into the same turbo and make a true single turbo. This way all cylinders are under the same amount of pressure, heat, and operating range. I really think you'll have a tough time feeding the 1UZ anywhere close to the 6,500 redline with a 2L turbo.

Edit: The early 1UZ engines have the strongest factory rods, which were forged from powder. It's no secret that they aren't super strong, but no reason why the shouldn't hold up to 12psi of boost with a good tune, in fact SteveChumo is running 12psi on stock rods as of last time I checked. If your running factory electronics, around 7psi is the limit, but with ample fuel and spark, and a good tune, this can easily be raised. I am doing a single 61mm T3, and I don't start to make boost until about 2,000 and at full boost above 3,500. Your going to need every bit of RPM range you can get if your only spinning a T3/4 with one bank.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

actually the timing necessary will be very close to the same because both banks will be forced induction, they are connected to the same intake manifold getting boost off of the single turbo. the only difference is the exhaust back pressure on the turbo header will be greater than on the non-turbo header.

the whole 1 n/a bank and 1 turbo bank thing i was suggesting a few posts ago i probably shouldn't have because it doesn't make any sense unless there were individual intake manifolds for each side of the motor. I think its safe to say that was a dumb idea, cause who would go out of their way to do something as silly as that.

Now what the OP is suggesting isn't a silly idea, its widely known you can trade off spool for max boost, so if we limit the max boost we want to run via choosing a smaller turbo we should get better spool. The question is will the increased spool from the smaller turbo outweigh the decrease in spool from using half the banks. even if it doesn't the question is how much slower will it spool in the real world.

Thats basically why I don't think the OP is going to be using a 61mm turbo, thats sort of huge for 2L of displacement looking for 10 psi. I have a 61mm on my 2JZ and you are right it takes a bit to spool it up, but that turbo is meant for much more than 10 psi.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

i think the exhaust restriction in the single bank will **** things up enough to nearly offset any power gained by forced induction from a small turbo (running low boost, and not flowing much air because the turbo is small).

UpInTheLex

iTrader: (5)

Keep in mind that only one side of the exhaust is flowing into the turbo, so it won't pose much of a restriction at high rpm if the turbo is capible of flowing 300 hp....

That one side is only going to flow 150 hp worth of air tops...right???

I'm gonna talk to my man Bart Connelly and get a Ghetto donor car that i can fab this up on.

Who else is doing Mega Squirt right now Bartle Doo??? You get a ms3 yet, who'd you source it from?
Any one make a PnP MS for the sc400 yet?

BartleDoo

iTrader: (1)

I got it through DIYautotune. I just wish my brand new Innovate wideband had worked as it was supposed to. It's holding me back as of now. I don't know anyone else running MS3 on a 1uz but I've seen other MS versions on it around the net.

UpInTheLex

iTrader: (5)

A blurb about Saabs one bank turbo engine...

The new Saab 9-5 is the first car in the world to be equipped with an asymmetric turbocharging system. This new engine concept uses the Saab 3.0L V6 engine equipped with one turbocharger mounted on the front cylinder bank, driven by exhaust gases from only those three cylinders. The single highly-responsive Garrett GT17 turbocharger delivers compressed air to all six cylinders in both cylinder banks. Combined with a boost pressure which reaches only 3.6 psi (0.25 bar), this technology allows a patented boost control system via the throttle control which eliminates the need for a wastegate. The turbocharger housing is integrated into the exhaust manifold instead of being a separate casting, for even greater efficiencies

The advanced 24-valve 3.0L Turbo V6 engine uses a narrow angle of 54 degrees between the cylinder banks and has been specifically developed for the new 9-5. It uses a short fixed-length inlet pipe system instead of the variable inlet manifold (VIM) used without the turbo on the Saab 9000.

The asymmetric turbo system increases peak torque by 15 percent—to 229 lb.-ft. at only 2,100 rpm—improving the useful performance and reducing passing times. The higher torque also allows longer gearing, which improves fuel economy and reduces engine noise at speed. Maximum power is 200 hp at 5,000 rpm.



Compressors map for that turbo:

Hey say what you want about Saabs, they've been doing the turbo thing a long time. The old two stroke V4, in the old time 96 is pretty wicked.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I just don't see why having it on one bank will mess things up just cause there is more backpressure on one bank. maybe those cylinders won't put out as much peak power as the other ones due to the extra backpressure, but were not talking much of a difference due to backpressure alone, which can be avoided with a free flowing exhaust system. i doubt it will even be noticeable.

most any engine can run even when complete cylinders are not firing at all, because everything is timed off of the cam/crank sensor, the motor will always fire at the right time, regardless of any power variance from cylinder to cylinder. obviously if the cylinder cannot maintain/increase the momentum of the engine it will feel all rough and jerky, but putting a turbo on isnt gonna cause anything near that.

oh and that saab info is pretty interesting, I take back what i said earlier.

3UZFTE

I just finished mine. I bought mine from DIYAutotune as well. I built my own with the v3.0 & MS3x cards so I can run sequential spark and fuel. My setup is going to be using the speed density, running the factory 12 tooth wheel, LS1 CNPs, 36# injectors, E85 w/ switchable MAPs using the Flex fuel sensor. I was originally going to use the Ford EDIS8 setup, but I like this setup a bit better. My goal is to push 350rwhp on a factory 92' 1UZFE NA-T.

If you want to check out my build, here it is.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ght-it-21.html

BartleDoo

iTrader: (1)

Please tell me how you wired the factory IAC valve (if you used it) from MS3 notation to the factory notation (1A-ISC?,1B-ISC?,etc). I got tired of messing with it and have a ghetto idle setup for the time being. I thought I had two different wiring schemes and one would work but I was wrong.

Edit: Just realized you probably haven't installed it yet. lol

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

wow looks good with the MS units. so you just wire those into a connector that plugs into the factory harness, or do you actually cut the ecu plug off and go one by one?

If you are using E85 I suspect you could run alot more than 350rwhp, alot less detonation to worry about. I like your setup, I am not a fan of the EDIS either.

3UZFTE

Haha, so I'm not alone... I was going to set it up at a 4 wire IAC, but found that there are 6 wires instead. I searched and found that some people are able to have success wiring up a 6 wire IAC, I hadn't seen the 1UZ being done. With that being said, I am for the time (in my head) just going to not run one, and crack the throttle plate open a bit until I can get my hands on a remote IAC setup to allow some ease of installation. Some dude sells a pretty sweet CNC'd block that allows the use of a Jeep IAC and some rubber hose. I think that if you are keeping the OE ecu, you should basically keep it to run the IAC, which is my back up plan if adjusting the screw doesn't work. Thoughts?

Hey, thanks. Unlike most, I'm not to worried about the wiring nightmare that will most likely be under the hood. I would very much like to run parallel ecu setups. Since the MS harness is super easy, I'm going to build my own harness that will almost install right over the top of the OE harness. I will than unplug the injectors and ignition (spark) and plug in the MS setup. I will first start it up using the factory 25# injectors, and tune it to 7psi (that's what my wastegate is rated for). Than once the power levels increase, I will upgrade to E85, 36# injectors, FlexFuel sensor, switchable maps. I really am shooting for over 400hp, but I know that the 200k A340e will not hold that kind of power through an open diff. Once I start braking stuff, than it will be yanked out and rebuilt to suit the power. My goal is to make a monster, but than once everything is blown and all the magic smoke is let out, I want to pull my MS3/x setup and be on my way. The only sensors that I am going to retain from the 1UZ is the factory cam and crank signal as well as the engine temp sensor. I need to weld in a nut for the Intake air temp in my charge piping, but it's pretty easy, just a little tricky to explain.

BartleDoo

iTrader: (1)

Two of the six wires are unnecessary if you look at the Lexus wiring diagram. I left my Lexus ecu to run certain things but I didn't think about leaving it for the IAC. I figured it wouldn't work. I'll go outside right now and rewire it to find out for sure, though.

EDIT: No I won't lol. It wont work without RPM input and other sensor inputs...I don't think.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

thats a nice way to do it, sounds like it should work pretty reliably.
different engine, same problem.
If I turn the boost up more ill risk breaking my w58.
hopefully i will get rid of that problem soon and upgrade, maybe when it gets warmer outside.

on my aem options for the idle valve it has 4 steppers for idle. i think our cars use a similar valve.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

How about just running a remote setup back where the resonators would be? There is a huge recess in the floorpan where the resonators were on my car. You could fit small twins in the cavities very easily. Then just wire up a sump pump for oil return, run the col piping and rock out. Super sleeper too, who would look under the back seat for turbos?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

^^^ you mean doing something like this, except an SC instead of a 2uz Landcruiser.
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/100_trubo_avo.htm